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04-07-2008, 11:25 AM   #16
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Update, and higher ISO = more dynamic range?

QuoteOriginally posted by cloudswimmer Quote
Hi, well its on the UPS truck out for delivery.I really won't be able to test it though till Wed.Keep working at it, and I'll let you know what I come up with towards the end of the week.

Chris

Thank you Chris, I appreciate it.

So anyway, I went back out today, and this time I solely used Center-Weighted metering, and I experienced none of the exposure pains I was yesterday. Everything still seems about .5 EV underexposed, but at the same time no highlights were ever blown out. So it looks as if the conservative metering is protecting the highlights (not a bad thing, but good to know). I then figured out the EV adjustment along with the Auto Bracketing, so that I was shooting +.3 EV adjustment with .3 EV bracketing (so I got a 0, +.3 and +.6) My final selections to work with in RAW when I got back were the 0 and +.3 for the most part and one image I selected the +.6, but that image had a good amount of bright gray sky in it.

So all in all the metering is doing a much, much better job now that I am using it better. (Like I said, I don't use it that much in real life)

Now that I have some really nicely exposed images, I notice that the noise levels are really very very nice at ISO 100 and 200 which is what I was shooting. I had to pixel-peep at very high percentages to look for the noise and I still couldn't find anything. In the studio I made a quick shot at ISO 1000, under available light and I was actually very impressed at the noise levels. At 100%, I noticed the noise in the quarter and midtone areas that were in the background and were unlit. I didn't even find the noise objectionable, and when printed there wasn't any noise visible in the subject which was lit nicely, only in the shadowy background, and it was very finely textured. I probably wont make a habit of shooting ISO 1000, but it's reassuring to know that it I could use it if I had to (content and composition willing).

The next thing I need to figure out and test is whether a higher ISO setting like 200 or 400 will give me more dynamic range (exposure latitude) than ISO 100. The shot I took at ISO 1000 (I took a similar version at ISO 100 at a longer exposure time) that the shot at ISO 1000 had more range between highlight and shadow (at a cost however, but the 1000 was a bit extreme. I remember on film, the lower ISO films had lower latitude, so I am wondering if this is also true with the sensor?

Brian

04-07-2008, 11:37 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by augustmoon Quote
Thank you Chris, I appreciate it.

So anyway, I went back out today, and this time I solely used Center-Weighted metering, and I experienced none of the exposure pains I was yesterday. Everything still seems about .5 EV underexposed, but at the same time no highlights were ever blown out. So it looks as if the conservative metering is protecting the highlights (not a bad thing, but good to know). I then figured out the EV adjustment along with the Auto Bracketing, so that I was shooting +.3 EV adjustment with .3 EV bracketing (so I got a 0, +.3 and +.6) My final selections to work with in RAW when I got back were the 0 and +.3 for the most part and one image I selected the +.6, but that image had a good amount of bright gray sky in it.

So all in all the metering is doing a much, much better job now that I am using it better. (Like I said, I don't use it that much in real life)

Now that I have some really nicely exposed images, I notice that the noise levels are really very very nice at ISO 100 and 200 which is what I was shooting. I had to pixel-peep at very high percentages to look for the noise and I still couldn't find anything. In the studio I made a quick shot at ISO 1000, under available light and I was actually very impressed at the noise levels. At 100%, I noticed the noise in the quarter and midtone areas that were in the background and were unlit. I didn't even find the noise objectionable, and when printed there wasn't any noise visible in the subject which was lit nicely, only in the shadowy background, and it was very finely textured. I probably wont make a habit of shooting ISO 1000, but it's reassuring to know that it I could use it if I had to (content and composition willing).

The next thing I need to figure out and test is whether a higher ISO setting like 200 or 400 will give me more dynamic range (exposure latitude) than ISO 100. The shot I took at ISO 1000 (I took a similar version at ISO 100 at a longer exposure time) that the shot at ISO 1000 had more range between highlight and shadow (at a cost however, but the 1000 was a bit extreme. I remember on film, the lower ISO films had lower latitude, so I am wondering if this is also true with the sensor?

Brian
Wheeuu....you had me worried there for a minute.I was going to suggest you place your shadows on Zone III and do N- development to hold back your highlights
04-08-2008, 12:24 PM   #18
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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Cloudswimmer and Augustmoon.. I think you two have a new friendship... How cute.
04-08-2008, 05:38 PM   #19
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: OC, California
Posts: 148
QuoteOriginally posted by madisonphotogrl Quote
Cloudswimmer and Augustmoon.. I think you two have a new friendship... How cute.
And they're both in south cali, hmmmmmm.....................

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