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05-20-2016, 04:14 PM - 2 Likes   #1891
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10,000 mark

Hit a minor milestone today, I reach 10,000 shutter actuations today.
K10D with K200 f4

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05-20-2016, 06:14 PM   #1892
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bhuey55 Quote
Hit a minor milestone today, I reach 10,000 shutter actuations today.
K10D with K200 f4
I am definitely ahead of you. I just hit 36,000 on myi K-3. On my film cameras, I guess that would be about
$5-6,000 in film and maybe twice that much for processing and prints.
05-21-2016, 03:20 AM - 1 Like   #1893
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I managed to handle a k1 for the first time yesterday.

So many buttons and functions I would rarely use. My A7 is similarly complicated but the settings are buried in mile deep menus.

For most of my photography my k10d has everything I usually need and nothing I don't need in a simple intuitive reliable package. It allows me to think about the image I want rather than which button I need to press.

Yes it has massive shortcomings at higher isos, but in every other respect, it's still my favourite camera for photography - i.e. taking photos rather than talking about features!

Long live the k10d.
05-21-2016, 01:58 PM   #1894
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QuoteOriginally posted by jamess Quote
I managed to handle a k1 for the first time yesterday.

So many buttons and functions I would rarely use. My A7 is similarly complicated but the settings are buried in mile deep menus.

For most of my photography my k10d has everything I usually need and nothing I don't need in a simple intuitive reliable package. It allows me to think about the image I want rather than which button I need to press.

Yes it has massive shortcomings at higher isos, but in every other respect, it's still my favourite camera for photography - i.e. taking photos rather than talking about features!

Long live the k10d.
Please don't compare a P47Thunderbolt with a fourth-generation fighter aircraft

05-22-2016, 01:23 AM   #1895
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QuoteOriginally posted by geol Quote
Please don't compare a P47Thunderbolt with a fourth-generation fighter aircraft
Why ever not? The whole point of photography is the images you produce not the technology you used to produce the image.

If you are on this thread its presumably because you appreciate what the k10d can do. You will know therefore that at low ISOs, the last Pentax DSLR with a CCD sensor can still hold its head high... or perhaps you're looking at your Dad's and wondering where the video button is and how you find HDR mode?

True. The K1 is light years ahead in many ways, and will capture shots that the K10d can't. For me, whose interests are landscape, street and portrait photography, in most situations, the k10d is still a great performer and the absence of extra features makes it quicker and more pleasant to use than my A7 or the K1.

I bought the A7 because I wanted to be able to use my vintage glass in the way it was designed to be used, and that has been a good learning process in itself. However, my K10d is still my tool of choice in most situations. It produces great images without the need for the added complexity. As with most tools, simpler is often as good if not better...
05-22-2016, 01:33 AM   #1896
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QuoteOriginally posted by jamess Quote
Why ever not? The whole point of photography is the images you produce not the technology you used to produce the image.

If you are on this thread its presumably because you appreciate what the k10d can do. You will know therefore that at low ISOs, the last Pentax DSLR with a CCD sensor can still hold its head high... or perhaps you're looking at your Dad's and wondering where the video button is and how you find HDR mode?

True. The K1 is light years ahead in many ways, and will capture shots that the K10d can't. For me, whose interests are landscape, street and portrait photography, in most situations, the k10d is still a great performer and the absence of extra features makes it quicker and more pleasant to use than my A7 or the K1.

I bought the A7 because I wanted to be able to use my vintage glass in the way it was designed to be used, and that has been a good learning process in itself. However, my K10d is still my tool of choice in most situations. It produces great images without the need for the added complexity. As with most tools, simpler is often as good if not better...
Well said. I agree completely. My K-3 can do some things that my K10D can't do and the reverse applies too. It is all about using the right tool for the job.
05-22-2016, 12:17 PM - 2 Likes   #1897
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A few flower shots using the F80-200 zoom:




05-25-2016, 04:29 PM   #1898
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So, my fellow K10D users.

I'm thinking here... after I sold the K20D, the K10D was supposed to be just a fun camera to explore the CCD which I thought would work well in certain situations. Then I'd get me a newer camera to use for my "more serious" work - I'm a proud amateur but I'd love to be a good photographer at some point in my life . Mind you, we also have a K-r, which I call the wife's camera, but I'm usually in charge of taking the family pictures with it - as long as I don't shoot RAW as she hates RAW because she wants to instantly post stuff on facebook or just view on her computer. Which is the reason I got the K-r anyway - the K20D's jpeg engine wasn't that good and the high ISO of the K-r delivers very well for family snaps.

So for my own camera, I was going to get a K-5 or K-S1 along with the K10D, for more megapixels (megapickles...) and supposedly higher image quality and more ability to crop. My bydget being 300 dollars or a bit, as hobby money's not free flowing at this point in my life...

Why more megapixels when you can easily print 24x36 with the K10D? At least people did back in 2008 with excellent results: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/28321-largest-k10d-print-size.html - that was before the manufacturers and the magazines/websites (which live on advertising) told us that we need more MP for the same print size. No we don't... I don't see myself printing larger than 24x36 at this point in my life, I would have to be a WHOLE lot better than I am now.

I think I could print this picture at 24x36 based on the pixel peeping I'm doing here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11375085@N02/26924828081/sizes/o/

So now I'm thinking, instead of getting a newer camera, why not fill any holes I have in my lens lineup instead? I think I have good lenses that are very sharp and render nicely in my K10D bag: the Tokina 19-35 (used in the picture I just linked), the M 50 1.7/Rikenon 50 1.4 for short tele, the SMC-A 70-210 which is incredibly sharp for a zoom. The DA 35 2.4 stays in the wife's K-r but I keep wishing for a faster normal prime, something that would help with DOF as well as with keeping the K10D ISO on the low side at all times...

So now I'm thinking, I'll just stick with the K10D and get me a used Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC EX instead, when one pops up here at the marketplace. What do y'all think? It's the classic dilemma, new camera vs new lens...

I'm posting this here because I know most of you guys do have K10D plus other cameras, and since you guys still shoot with the K10D, you obviously don't just get the latest camera because of its specs, you also care about real world results...

05-25-2016, 05:19 PM   #1899
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DSLRs come and go but good lenses last forever. Don't be afraid to go older either. Lots of legacy Pentax lenses out there.
05-25-2016, 07:58 PM   #1900
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QuoteOriginally posted by wtlwdwgn Quote
DSLRs come and go but good lenses last forever. Don't be afraid to go older either. Lots of legacy Pentax lenses out there.
I know. I have a few No fast normal though - normal in this case being 28-35mm and fast being f1.8 and faster, g1.4 is even better. And those aren't available in the vintage offerings I am afraid...
05-26-2016, 02:15 AM   #1901
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This thread is absolutely huge, and I did a search on a couple of subjects I was interested in and did not find what I was looking for.
To set a baseline, I have done a ton of landscape photography with a manual Pentax K2, but as the years went by, I lost the skills to deal with the settings. I had a K100 Super D, but it failed after 7K shots. I pickled up a K10D last year at a price, that makes me lose some sleep at night based on the current prices. I have used it on several trips to Yosemite and Death Valley, but I am looking for settings recommendations to really get me beyond the basics.

I did find shooting in Aperture Priority created a clearer, brighter, sharper shot. But still not what I am seeing here.
I have a huge number of wildflower shots from Death Valley this year, and while I get a lot of Oooh's and Aahh's, I look at them and think "not so much."
Do I have some great shots that rival some here, you bet, but I think the user and camera is capable of doing better.
So let me start with what I have
  • Body - Pentax K10D
  • Kit Lens(2) 18mm-55mm 8-55mm f/3.5-5.6 - No filters, although I thought I had a UV filter on both - Normally I have one and need to find it. I suspect it is on my old manual lens
  • 70-300 f4.5(?) Vivitar Manual Lens 1:4.5-5.6 w/Macro UV and Polarizer
I have been using the camera in Auto Stupid mode(Let the camera determine the settings)
RAW+
In my searching it appears manual focusing is the way to go. OK, got it
I think I read where Aperture setting is the best,
What about TAV?
I also found here that shooting ISO 100 seems to bring out the best bright light shots. So I have that set.
In a couple of weeks, I an headed to Yosemite to shoot some incredible back country warerfalls(LeConte aka Waterwheel Falls) and really want to get some great shots.
Thoughts?
05-26-2016, 05:17 AM   #1902
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
So now I'm thinking, I'll just stick with the K10D and get me a used Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC EX instead, when one pops up here at the marketplace. What do y'all think? It's the classic dilemma, new camera vs new lens...

That sounds like the wisest move to me. The main reason I got the K-S1 was to give me the option of using higher ISO settings, but in hindsight I think it would have suited me better to spend the money on a faster lens instead. The K10D is fine at ISO400 as long as you don't underexpose, and with the 30mm/1.4 that should give you a very useable low light solution.


QuoteOriginally posted by Grzldvt Quote
In my searching it appears manual focusing is the way to go. OK, got itI think I read where Aperture setting is the best, What about TAV?I also found here that shooting ISO 100 seems to bring out the best bright light shots. So I have that set.In a couple of weeks, I an headed to Yosemite to shoot some incredible back country warerfalls(LeConte aka Waterwheel Falls) and really want to get some great shots.Thoughts?

Yes, definitely manual focus for landscapes, and you can pull the on-off switch around to the depth of field preview setting to check how much of the scene will be acceptably sharp. I'd recommend manual exposure too for landscapes, since you've usually got the time to think things through for the best settings. Think about the aperture first and make sure you stop down enough to get the depth of field that you want, then set the shutter speed appropriately. A good idea is to make sure the menu option is switched on to give you over/underexposure warnings on the LCD -- the famous "blinkies". Take a test shot at the meter's recommended exposure, then check on the LCD to make sure the highlights aren't blown out. Underexpose if necessary to protect those highlights. The K10D has loads of room for you to pull detail back out of the shadows in post-processing, but once the highlights are gone, they're gone for good.

If you used to shoot slide film with your K2 you'll already know what to do. Just treat exposure with your K10D exactly as if you were using slide film and you can't go wrong.
05-26-2016, 07:46 AM   #1903
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QuoteOriginally posted by Grzldvt Quote
Thoughts?
Yes... I have two.

I think from what you are describing, you need one or two better lenses. Something like a DA 16-45mm would not cost a whole lot, and it would give you a boost in quality from your 18-55. Then compliment that with a cheap SMC-M 50mm f/1.7 which will give you an idea of what a good prime can accomplish - only they usually cost more. This little M 50 1.7 should cost you less than 50 dollars. If you can also swing a 28mm f/2.8, that's also worth trying, and should cost you 50-60 dollars or so for the SMC-M version. There's also Sigmas and Tokinas (and Tokina-made Auto Sears) that can be had for around 25-40 dollars depending on condition and on who's selling.

The other thing I have learned so far, even though I'm kind of new to the K10D, is that you have to get the exposure right. So I basically "chimp" a lot - if the exposure isn't right, I change the settings and try again. With time I'm learning to get it right more frequently, and what helps is that I only use two ISO settings most of the time - 100 if it's bright, 400 if the light is low. That's it. It then makes it easier to remember what shutter speeds I need to use with what apertures. And sometimes I use Ev with manual lenses just to shoot wide open for fun, but usually with a +1 EV compensation setting.

So, for short: 1-get some faster, cheap Pentax primes and a better standard zoom; and 2-don't think "I'll fix exposure later". Expose right, the CCD sensor will reward you for it.

Finally, you said you already shoot in RAW+ so that's good. Any shot that you think is worth showing, you can get the RAW file and process it with a good software which doesn't have to be expensive.

---------- Post added 05-26-16 at 10:47 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Dartmoor Dave Quote
That sounds like the wisest move to me. The main reason I got the K-S1 was to give me the option of using higher ISO settings, but in hindsight I think it would have suited me better to spend the money on a faster lens instead. The K10D is fine at ISO400 as long as you don't underexpose, and with the 30mm/1.4 that should give you a very useable low light solution.
Part of me thinks, yes, let me buy that fast lens, and part of me thinks, well maybe I should buy Dave's K-S1 so he can get the prime he wants
05-26-2016, 08:34 AM   #1904
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The M 50 f/1.7 was the first manual focus lens I bought for the K10D. A good one is very sharp, produces great bokeh, and is easy to focus. Even though it isn't very wide you can do landscape by shooting multiple images and stitching them in software. It's also a good focal length for portraits on APS-C.

As stated above, the K10D isn't very forgiving of over exposure and even less of under exposure. Expose to the right but watch the highlights. The K10D has blinkies for both under and over exposure which the later models no longer have. It's also easy to exceed the dynamic range of the sensor in harsh light as in shooting in bright sunlight with deep shadows.

As far as modes go, TAv is my most used mode followed by M when the light is difficult. You'll have to practice using M mode but it's very satisfying when you get it right.

The techniques you learn shooting the K10D will stand you in good stead when you get a K-1 later on. There's no substitute for getting it right in camera.
05-26-2016, 10:34 PM   #1905
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dartmoor Dave Quote
That sounds like the wisest move to me. The main reason I got the K-S1 was to give me the option of using higher ISO settings, but in hindsight I think it would have suited me better to spend the money on a faster lens instead. The K10D is fine at ISO400 as long as you don't underexpose, and with the 30mm/1.4 that should give you a very useable low light solution.





Yes, definitely manual focus for landscapes, and you can pull the on-off switch around to the depth of field preview setting to check how much of the scene will be acceptably sharp. I'd recommend manual exposure too for landscapes, since you've usually got the time to think things through for the best settings. Think about the aperture first and make sure you stop down enough to get the depth of field that you want, then set the shutter speed appropriately. A good idea is to make sure the menu option is switched on to give you over/underexposure warnings on the LCD -- the famous "blinkies". Take a test shot at the meter's recommended exposure, then check on the LCD to make sure the highlights aren't blown out. Underexpose if necessary to protect those highlights. The K10D has loads of room for you to pull detail back out of the shadows in post-processing, but once the highlights are gone, they're gone for good.

If you used to shoot slide film with your K2 you'll already know what to do. Just treat exposure with your K10D exactly as if you were using slide film and you can't go wrong.
Thank You.... this is excellent advice, playing with it right now
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