[RussV]

Great shots lately guys

Again with the F35-70:

It looks like a good lens. I have the A series F4 35-70 and it's a favourite of mine.

[ChristianRock]

Ok guys, now seriously. Could these reds come from anything other than a CCD? (or film)? (M 50 f4 Macro)


Other colors aren't too shabby either... (M 50 f4 Macro)


And one with the Vivitar/Cosina 24 2.8. Now that I'm starting to learn this lens, I'm starting to love it. Highly recommended - sharp, aberrations are very well controlled.

[wtlwdwgn]

K10D and DA* 16-50mm f/2.8.

[Dartmoor Dave]

Ok guys, now seriously. Could these reds come from anything other than a CCD? (or film)? (M 50 f4 Macro)

Excellent proof that reds that look really red is one of the K10D's great strengths, especially combined with the characteristic rendering of an M series lens.

I've noticed that even in the K-1 photos thread the rendering of reds can cause problems, with a strong tendency towards clipping -- but it wouldn't stop me rushing right out to buy a K-1 if I could afford one. Compromised reds seem to be something that people have just accepted in the CMOS era, in exchange for the higher resolution and ISO capabilities.

[ChristianRock]

Excellent proof that reds that look really red is one of the K10D's great strengths, especially combined with the characteristic rendering of an M series lens.

I've noticed that even in the K-1 photos thread the rendering of reds can cause problems, with a strong tendency towards clipping -- but it wouldn't stop me rushing right out to buy a K-1 if I could afford one. Compromised reds seem to be something that people have just accepted in the CMOS era, in exchange for the higher resolution and ISO capabilities.

I would take a K-1 any time, as well, if one were to give me one

Regarding the red amaryllis - most importantly, that is the accurate red that shows the flowers like they were in real life. With the K20D I would have some other completely different color, usually some dark orange, instead - that had nothing to do with the actual scene. With the K-S1 it's a bit better but CMOS still has a ways to go...

These two Iris are also very accurate to the original scene:

[Eyewanders]

dug up another from quite a long while back... with DA*50-135

[rayallen]

Three image HDR (-1.7 EV, 0. +1.7 EV) with Tamron SP 10-24mm F3.5-4.5 Di II B001 at Chain Valley Bay on Lake Macquarie.

[rayallen]

Our village photography club's competition theme this month was "Close Up". I used my K10D and a Tamron SP 90 mm Macro to produce these entries:

White Shell.


EGG-scuse me. This one got 2nd place.


Dictionary. This one got a Merit.

[paulh]

Three image HDR (-1.7 EV, 0. +1.7 EV) with Tamron SP 10-24mm F3.5-4.5 Di II B001 at Chain Valley Bay on Lake Macquarie.

Our village photography club's competition theme this month was "Close Up". I used my K10D and a Tamron SP 90 mm Macro to produce these entries:

Nice work, Ray!

[rayallen]

Nice work, Ray!

Thank you, Paul.

[RussV]

Our village photography club's competition theme this month was "Close Up". I used my K10D and a Tamron SP 90 mm Macro to produce these entries:

Nice pictures and proof the K10 can still compete with more modern cameras.

[rayallen]

Nice pictures and proof the K10 can still compete with more modern cameras.

Yes, it sure can. Just because I have a K-3 does not mean that I have abandoned my K10D. And there are older cameras than it still producing good images.

[Dartmoor Dave]

Three image HDR (-1.7 EV, 0. +1.7 EV) with Tamron SP 10-24mm F3.5-4.5 Di II B001 at Chain Valley Bay on Lake Macquarie.

Ray, your HDR is an absolute model of the way that technique should be used. You've brought out a huge range of tones in the scene without any hint of artificiality at all, just extending the camera's dynamic range while still looking completely natural. I know it's considered rude to ask the master chef for his recipe. . . but how the heck did you do that? I would never have guessed it was HDR if you hadn't told us.

[rayallen]

Ray, your HDR is an absolute model of the way that technique should be used. You've brought out a huge range of tones in the scene without any hint of artificiality at all, just extending the camera's dynamic range while still looking completely natural. I know it's considered rude to ask the master chef for his recipe. . . but how the heck did you do that? I would never have guessed it was HDR if you hadn't told us.

Gee, thank you, Dave. You sure know how to make a fellow feel good. I am quite happy to reveal how I achieved that result but I am not sure how much it will help you if you don't use Lightroom. And I don't think you do. It may assist others.
I had the camera mounted on a Manfrotto tripod and, as I said, I took three images at 1.7 EV difference (-1.7, 0, +1.7). And then I processed them in LR6 (CC).

My settings were: WB = AWB, Colour temp = 5571, Exposure = +0.85, Highlights = -62, Shadows = +70, Whites = +15, Blacks = -15, Clarity = +57, Vibrance = +21, Saturation = 0.
Lightroom does a great job with HDR and it really did extend the dynamic range in this case. If I had noticed any artificiality creeping in I would back backed off.

I hope that helps. And thanks again for your kind words. Much appreciated.

[VmaxNL]

Due to cold weather, my garden flowers are doing really well. A good reason to take some more pictures of these beautiful pieces of natures Art. I left the pictures untouched, straight from the camera:
(GX10 - SMC Pentax DA 50-200mm 1:4-5.6 ED)

(GX10 - SMC Pentax DA 50-200mm 1:4-5.6 ED)

(GX10 - Soligor MC Tele-Auto 135mm 1:2.8 & Panagor auto teleconverter 2x)

(GX10 - SMC Pentax DA 50-200mm 1:4-5.6 ED)

Small impression of the flowers in my garden...
(GX10 - SMC Pentax DA 1:1.8 50mm)

(GX10 - SMC Pentax DA 1:1.8 50mm)