[paulh]

Just look at the Dagmars on that Cadillac

Yes - you'd best stay clear or risk serious injury! At least those have the rubberized "safety tips" on the forward ones - my Dad's '55 had solid chrome bullets.

---

Last edited by paulh; 12-30-2018 at 09:44 AM.

[Dartmoor Dave]

My first snap of 2019 this afternoon with the 18-55mm WR. Happy New Year folks.

[paulh]

My first snap of 2019 this afternoon with the 18-55mm WR. Happy New Year folks.

Beautiful setting and light, Dave. Happy New Year!

[subsea]

My first snap of 2019 this afternoon with the 18-55mm WR. Happy New Year folks.

Happy New Year to you and your family, as well, Dave.


Really love the light on this one!

[rayallen]

My first snap of 2019 this afternoon with the 18-55mm WR. Happy New Year folks.

That is a beautiful image to start the New Year with, Dave. Happy New Year to you and all the other contributors to this thread.

[ChristianRock]

Happy New Year to Dave (beautiful picture as always!), Ray, Paul and everyone else...

Hopefully I'll get to take more pictures in 2019 than I did in the 2nd half of 2018... at least my k10D seems to be misbehaving a bit less these days with its electronic gremlins!

[Dartmoor Dave]

Thanks folks. It's a testament to the K10D (and its GX-10 twin) that we're all still here getting great pleasure from cameras that will be a minimum of 11 years old this year.

Hopefully I'll get to take more pictures in 2019 than I did in the 2nd half of 2018... at least my k10D seems to be misbehaving a bit less these days with its electronic gremlins!

As long as you don't feed it after midnight, you'll be fine.
(A line that will make no sense at all unless you've seen the movie "Gremlins".)

[Minimonster]

Spent New Year in the Lake District. This is the K10D with my SMC Takumar 35 mm. I love the colours this combination produces.

[goatsNdonkey]

My K10D has me spoiled.

Just to see how the CMOS sensor set lives, I got a Pentax K-R dslr. It arrived only a week ago, but I couldn't do much more than indoor test shots until Saturday's sunshine, but a funny thing happened--blue skies didn't pop, a lens that didn't have purple-fringing before now had it, and the faded red of my old box truck came out looking more like raspberry sherbet. Yikes.

I shoot jpegs with my K10D, and tweak them a little if they need it, usually just to adjust highlight and shadow brightness for the most detail. I leave the color profile on "Natural" with the Saturation, Contrast, and Sharpness sliders zeroed (that is centered). Doing some indoor shots (yes it's overcast again outside) of a colorful still-life, I determined that the equivalent "Natural" setting on the K-R does give more subdued colors than with the K10D. Although it might be partly a quality of the auto white balance and the lighting I have indoors, the K-R seemed to give bluer-blues (and bluer reds) than the K10D. The K10D seemed to have a bit more yellow in the color profile, which showed in oranger orange colors, less-bluish reds, yellower golds and yellower light-orange colors. The K-R has so many color profiles for jpegs, that it's rather confusing: Bright, Natural, Portrait, Landscape, Vibrant, Muted, Bleach Bypass (?!?!?!?), Reversal Film, Muted, Monochrome--as opposed to the K10D's Vibrant and Natural. Then also, there are several sliders *within* each profile. So far, Portrait seems to be the closest thing to a K10D emulation, but I will have to try it with some blue skies and red trucks. Interestingly there is a slider for Hue inside the color profile selections, too, so if sunshine-lit reds still have too much blue in them, that might help.

Such are the struggles of someone spoiled by his K10D.

[paulh]

My K10D has me spoiled.

I suffered the same "CMOS shock" when I acquired my K-5. Strange and unnatural hues and colors. Shooting in RAW helps enormously with gaining control of those things. There's no question about the improvements in DR and higher isos, but the old CCD tones feel more like home to me.

[rayallen]

My K10D has me spoiled.

Such are the struggles of someone spoiled by his K10D.

I suffered the same "CMOS shock" when I acquired my K-5. Strange and unnatural hues and colors. Shooting in RAW helps enormously with gaining control of those things. There's no question about the improvements in DR and higher isos, but the old CCD tones feel more like home to me.

I got my K-3 just over 4 years ago. It is a great camera and I love it but there are many times when it just can't beat the images produced by my trusty 11 year old K10D. It is no surprise that this thread is thriving. May our K10Ds (and their clones) live on for many years more.

[goatsNdonkey]

I got my K-3 just over 4 years ago. It is a great camera and I love it but there are many times when it just can't beat the images produced by my trusty 11 year old K10D. It is no surprise that this thread is thriving. May our K10Ds (and their clones) live on for many years more.

Reading in this thread was one of the reasons that, when I wanted to upgrade from my K110D, I realized that going beyond the K10D might be a mistake, or at least not worth the money unless I had a LOT more money for the upgrade than I had. So I went into getting this K-R not considering it so much as an upgrade from the K10D, but more of an alternative. I think the better high-iso performance is going to be the main thing I will value with the K-R.

I'm not overly obsessed with getting exactly the same colors out of the K-R, but avoiding what seemed like color aberrations in the K-R's Natural profile will be nice. I'm pretty optimistic, but I was surprised from those first tests. I did get some good pictures however, too, and posted some here at PF. The raspberry truck shot, actually looked decent, if one didn't know what color the truck actually was.

[ Some time ago I had Darktable on my Linux-OS computer and was trying to learn to use RAW with it, but some of Darktable's user resources were off-line for a couple of months, so I deleted it. I like, and have gotten used to, my alternate work around. I use Gimp to export a copy of the original Jpeg file, to a Tiff file, and then I open that up with the viewer program, Shotwell, and make lossless adjustments with it's very easy to use editing tools -- I prefer to do the least possible that gives me good detail. I save that under an amended name and export it with Gimp back to a Jpeg. Usually the results turn out well, unless the exposure was really way off. I'm one of those people who want to have the taking the picture be the ART-MAKING part of the process, and not have a post-processing procedure that is harder than I remember printing an enlargement in a darkroom as being. Let's not open up a debate about post-processing here and now...I promise I will give RAW another try sometime.... ]

[twilhelm]

Reading in this thread was one of the reasons that, when I wanted to upgrade from my K110D, I realized that going beyond the K10D might be a mistake, or at least not worth the money unless I had a LOT more money for the upgrade than I had. So I went into getting this K-R not considering it so much as an upgrade from the K10D, but more of an alternative. I think the better high-iso performance is going to be the main thing I will value with the K-R.

I'm not overly obsessed with getting exactly the same colors out of the K-R, but avoiding what seemed like color aberrations in the K-R's Natural profile will be nice. I'm pretty optimistic, but I was surprised from those first tests. I did get some good pictures however, too, and posted some here at PF. The raspberry truck shot, actually looked decent, if one didn't know what color the truck actually was.

[ Some time ago I had Darktable on my Linux-OS computer and was trying to learn to use RAW with it, but some of Darktable's user resources were off-line for a couple of months, so I deleted it. I like, and have gotten used to, my alternate work around. I use Gimp to export a copy of the original Jpeg file, to a Tiff file, and then I open that up with the viewer program, Shotwell, and make lossless adjustments with it's very easy to use editing tools -- I prefer to do the least possible that gives me good detail. I save that under an amended name and export it with Gimp back to a Jpeg. Usually the results turn out well, unless the exposure was really way off. I'm one of those people who want to have the taking the picture be the ART-MAKING part of the process, and not have a post-processing procedure that is harder than I remember printing an enlargement in a darkroom as being. Let's not open up a debate about post-processing here and now...I promise I will give RAW another try sometime.... ]

I'm not going to get into the raw v jpg discussion. But in another thread we were discussing equipment needed for doing school portraits. Which got me to thinking... when I did school portraits with the K10D, I really could have shot all of them Jpg and saved myself hours upon hours of editing. The K20D and K5 on the other hand, needed a bit of tweaking to get those K10D colors the way I liked them.

[Dartmoor Dave]

I'm not going to get into the raw v jpg discussion. But in another thread we were discussing equipment needed for doing school portraits. Which got me to thinking... when I did school portraits with the K10D, I really could have shot all of them Jpg and saved myself hours upon hours of editing. The K20D and K5 on the other hand, needed a bit of tweaking to get those K10D colors the way I liked them.

The fact that so little post-processing is needed to get the look I want is the main reason I'm still using this as my main camera, despite its limitations in some areas such as ISO. For example, the only processing in the above shot of the two riders was to load the raw file at Camera Raw defaults, set white and black points, and crop slightly. I could have got pretty much the same end result with a CMOS sensor, but it would have needed a lot more work with contrast and saturation and who-knows-what-else.

So basically, I shoot with the GX-10/K10D because I'm too hopeless at Photoshop to use anything newer.

[yucafrita]

Maybe we should convince Ricoh to add a "CCD" profile to DCU for CMOS cameras...