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04-17-2008, 01:07 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Geekybiker Quote
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I can't really afford the catz eye, and I'm not sure about modifying a screen as in this post.
but cheap ones from ebay if you can't cut your own from OEMs like Katz or people in China do.

04-17-2008, 01:47 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fritz Quote
No problem. That Godfrey knows whats goin on!

DPR has a lot of great info if you dig for it. But the format of the forum is horrible IMHO. I've tried to register several times, and it will not let me log on! Oh well, I like this site better anyway.
i think changing the forum to Flat View helps a lot.
in terms of registration, i believe that if you get an AOL e-mail account, you should be able to sign up to DPR, but double check that.
there's a wealth of information there, but sometimes people are more hostile and the lack of separation makes it look like everybody only wants to talk about the K20D
04-17-2008, 02:13 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by ftpaddict Quote
I've often asked myself the same thing, but the focus confirmation can sometimes "misfire". It is, therefore, a lot more reliable to trust your own eyes.
tes try focussing on a subject behind tree branches a light movement can mean you focus on the close brances or the more distand subject (a building for example)
04-18-2008, 02:46 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by simons-photography Quote
tes try focussing on a subject behind tree branches a light movement can mean you focus on the close brances or the more distand subject (a building for example)
But normally the Viewfinder is gives you the indication which spot it has focused.

Any way if the metering is not affected too much I'm happy with the new screen.

But good thing is AF confirmation works even if there is a black out in the split screen.

Now i will mostly use my M42 lenses they are really superb.

The shop from where I got the screen has some Nikon & Cosina screens with him, may be this time i give try to Nikon screen, if they are little bit brighter than my current one. Even a screen with only microprism center would be better as it wont affect the spot metering.

"Taking pictures will make you a good photographer, but the best are always born with perfect eyes"

04-18-2008, 03:28 AM   #20
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I am not getting clear focusing on my stock K200D which is due either to my eyes, the difficulty of using the screen or a misfocus problem. I have no idea which of the three, but it is driving me nuts! Maybe I'm just bad at focusing, but I hate losing so many shots. Am considering replacing the screen but not sure a prism is what I want blocking the image. Also looking into the magnifying eyecup.
04-18-2008, 04:36 AM   #21
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I did the same test as the OP yesterday, I sanded down a screen from a Yashica and pushed it in to my k10d. Maybe it wasn’t thick enough (or to thick?) but I did get a slight backfocus. Anyhow, apart from that I was hoping to get a higher resolution focus indication (if that makes sense). Turns out though that it was really hard to beat the focus assist, so I will most probably change back to the original screen.
04-18-2008, 06:07 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by madhurvyas Quote
But normally the Viewfinder is gives you the indication which spot it has focused.

Any way if the metering is not affected too much I'm happy with the new screen.

But good thing is AF confirmation works even if there is a black out in the split screen.

Now i will mostly use my M42 lenses they are really superb.

The shop from where I got the screen has some Nikon & Cosina screens with him, may be this time i give try to Nikon screen, if they are little bit brighter than my current one. Even a screen with only microprism center would be better as it wont affect the spot metering.

"Taking pictures will make you a good photographer, but the best are always born with perfect eyes"
you didn't read my post carefully if you are holding the camera and are shooting "through" foreground matter you can esily stray slightly and focus on an unwanted object
04-18-2008, 09:08 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by rparmar Quote
I am not getting clear focusing on my stock K200D which is due either to my eyes, the difficulty of using the screen or a misfocus problem. I have no idea which of the three, but it is driving me nuts! Maybe I'm just bad at focusing, but I hate losing so many shots. Am considering replacing the screen but not sure a prism is what I want blocking the image. Also looking into the magnifying eyecup.
May be you need to adjust the diopter towards right, try pushing it to extreme right.

04-18-2008, 09:15 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by simons-photography Quote
you didn't read my post carefully if you are holding the camera and are shooting "through" foreground matter you can esily stray slightly and focus on an unwanted object
May be this could be an issue if we use AF, while using MF I never seemed to have this issue, I have taken shots of flowers hiding between branches in strong breeze, flower was moving but once I got the confirmation beep with focus on flower I took the shot & every thing was perfect.
Because the K10D screen is bright & clear enough to identify between focused & unfocused area.
Here is the image I'm talking about.
Attached Images
 
04-18-2008, 09:17 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by rparmar Quote
I am not getting clear focusing on my stock K200D which is due either to my eyes, the difficulty of using the screen or a misfocus problem. I have no idea which of the three, but it is driving me nuts! Maybe I'm just bad at focusing, but I hate losing so many shots. Am considering replacing the screen but not sure a prism is what I want blocking the image. Also looking into the magnifying eyecup.
Madhur already mentioned the possibility that you've not got the diopter adjusted correctly. I want to second this idea and mention - since this seems to confuse some people - that the correct way to adjust the diopter is by looking at the settings values at the bottom of the viewfinder, NOT by adjusting the diopter until something comes into focus. In fact, the best thing to do is put the lens cap on the lens, so you will not be tempted to pay any attention at all to what the lens is "seeing." Adjust the diopter for maximum clarity of the numbers and letters in the settings display.

As Madhur suggests, if you're eyes are bad (like mine, when I'm not wearing my contacts) you'll need to go far to the right. Unfortunately, you might not be able to go far enough. I would then note that the Katz Eye can be especially helpful, because you can see the split-screen coming together even when the diopter isn't well adjusted. Most of the time when I'm shooting, I'm wearing contacts. I keep the diopter in the middle where everything is perfect. If I shoot without my contacts, I try to grab the K10D which has the Katz Eye installed (my K20D does not, not yet). Even if the diopter is crazy off (because I leave it in the center), I can still focus manually. Of course, everything seems blurry, but I ignore that and look at the split screen and the results are good. I admit, I don't do this a lot because it's rather disconcerting to be clicking the shutter when the subject seems fuzzy! But I suppose it's some sort of recommendation of the split-screen.

Will
04-18-2008, 09:44 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by WMBP Quote
Madhur already mentioned the possibility that you've not got the diopter adjusted correctly. I want to second this idea and mention - since this seems to confuse some people - that the correct way to adjust the diopter is by looking at the settings values at the bottom of the viewfinder, NOT by adjusting the diopter until something comes into focus. In fact, the best thing to do is put the lens cap on the lens, so you will not be tempted to pay any attention at all to what the lens is "seeing." Adjust the diopter for maximum clarity of the numbers and letters in the settings display.

As Madhur suggests, if you're eyes are bad (like mine, when I'm not wearing my contacts) you'll need to go far to the right. Unfortunately, you might not be able to go far enough. I would then note that the Katz Eye can be especially helpful, because you can see the split-screen coming together even when the diopter isn't well adjusted. Most of the time when I'm shooting, I'm wearing contacts. I keep the diopter in the middle where everything is perfect. If I shoot without my contacts, I try to grab the K10D which has the Katz Eye installed (my K20D does not, not yet). Even if the diopter is crazy off (because I leave it in the center), I can still focus manually. Of course, everything seems blurry, but I ignore that and look at the split screen and the results are good. I admit, I don't do this a lot because it's rather disconcerting to be clicking the shutter when the subject seems fuzzy! But I suppose it's some sort of recommendation of the split-screen.

Will
Yes the values in the view finder are the best way to keep viewfinder in focus.
But my eyesight is also little weak so i keep the diopter to extreme right, still the numbers are slight blurry for me. I should start using my specs while shooting.
But after looking at thousands of lines of code every day & glaring at the monitor for whole day most of the people would have some weakness in eyes.

Split screen helps in this aspect.

K10D's screen is real good, but if you need the best manual focusing you should go for split screen.
04-18-2008, 10:21 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by madhurvyas Quote
Yes the values in the view finder are the best way to keep viewfinder in focus.
But my eyesight is also little weak so i keep the diopter to extreme right, still the numbers are slight blurry for me. I should start using my specs while shooting.
But after looking at thousands of lines of code every day & glaring at the monitor for whole day most of the people would have some weakness in eyes.

Split screen helps in this aspect.

K10D's screen is real good, but if you need the best manual focusing you should go for split screen.
I tried using my camera (PZ-1 at the time) without glasses and setting the view finder to compensate. My problem is that I need glasses for distance, and have a -3.25 diopter correction. If I don't wear my glasses, everything is out of focus except when I look through the camera. If I wear them, I have to remove them before I shoot. Try doing nature photography that way, it simply does not work. I have found that in the end, It is quite comfortable to wear my glasses at all times, and simply adjust the viewfinder to a neutral setting.

With respect to manual focusing and a split screen, at present, I have decided not to go this route, because the split screen interferes with spot metering.

I rely heavily on spot metering at the present time.
04-18-2008, 04:04 PM   #28
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Thanks for the help but yes indeedy the diopter is full right, which gets the readout quite clear. Whether +3 would help I don't know. I think not. +2 seems pretty well on. So that's not my issue.

I think I will have to shell out for the Katz Eye with international shipping and duty and VAT... it gets very expensive. Especially for something the camera should have from the word go. However there is no point doing this with my K100D so I will continue to miss lots of shots until i can afford a K20D and 200 bucks on top. Frustrating.

Since originally posting I have read Manual Focus Ain't So Easy. This article is a revelation! I am not alone in my inability to focus!
04-18-2008, 04:26 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by rparmar Quote
Thanks for the help but yes indeedy the diopter is full right, which gets the readout quite clear. Whether +3 would help I don't know. I think not. +2 seems pretty well on. So that's not my issue.

I think I will have to shell out for the Katz Eye with international shipping and duty and VAT... it gets very expensive. Especially for something the camera should have from the word go. However there is no point doing this with my K100D so I will continue to miss lots of shots until i can afford a K20D and 200 bucks on top. Frustrating.

Since originally posting I have read Manual Focus Ain't So Easy. This article is a revelation! I am not alone in my inability to focus!
It is unfortunate that you feel so disappointed about the lack of a split image, however, note that installing a split image, as reported by others makes the spot metering inacurate.

I rely on spot metering for wild life, and this is the reason I have not paid the extra money for a split image in either of my cameras.

In fact, when I look at my camera collection, I only have one split image, that on my ricoh XR-2s. I like that concept because it is diagonal as opposed to horizontal or vertical. but my other 2 film bodies (KX and PZ-1) as well as my 2 DSLRs are all "ground glass" it never stopped me, but I can understand it is sometimes more difficult or slower.

If and when the time comes to get a K20D or other future DSLR, I might go for a split image for my old glass, I do have 8 MF lenses (covering 24mm to 400mm) but I'll wait a little on that.
04-18-2008, 05:03 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
It is unfortunate that you feel so disappointed about the lack of a split image, however, note that installing a split image, as reported by others makes the spot metering inacurate.
Ah yes, that might suck. Though I do not use spot metering much, there are times.

But it is not specifically the lack of split image I have a problem with, it is the general lack of my ability to focus, which may indeed be related to the focus screen. perhaps a perfectly clear one would be best? That would at least not have the microlenses the article refers to.
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