[dms]

I was interested in any ideas people have about the potential problems associated w/ making the SR full time (on order of 2 hours) on. I can (and did) do it easily by a length of photo tape with a wadded area bridging over the shutter release button.

After turning camera on I set the tape in place so it keeps a half push on the shutter release button. My idea is for the 2 hours I am shooting theater production to leave it on. Thought about it in the past but did not set it up it till now. I have a K20d (and k-x) and thought I would try it on the k20d.

[Adam]

What would the benefit of this be? The viewfinder isn't stabilized with Pentax SR, so as long as the system is active shortly before shooting you'd get the same end result.

[dms]

Adam, the benefit is (in the past) when I want to shoot fast to catch "the moment" the SR has not yet come on. (I am specifically using it for dance/theater productions.)

The way I normally do it is sit with the shutter half pushed in anticipation--but I forget or need to move my hand to set/reset something.

[DSims]

Don't potential motion blur issues override the need for SR? In other words, don't you need a semi-fast shutter speed anyway? Or do you get lucky and the motion is stopped often enough?

Also, I'd have trouble using the K20D if I also had a K-x. Unless of course the lighting is really bright, in which case I'm not sure why you need the SR. But on the K20D I suppose you still might, because of the weaker high ISO performance.



In any case, give it a try if you like. I'd feel uncomfortable having SR active while I moved the camera around abruptly.

Obviously a tripod is your best bet when feasible. And if taking photos is your only responsibility, hopefully you can simply concentrate on the task and be ready most of the time (granted, execution is often harder than theory, but we seem to manage somehow).

---

Last edited by DSims; 03-12-2014 at 04:29 PM.

[Steve.Ledger]

Isn't this an option you can set in the menu SR options (Mode1 or Mode2)? I know it is on the Q and K-01
You keep the camera powered on for 2hrs ?

[dms]

Generally I shoot at 1/60 to 1/15 s and FL 21-200mm. The longer time for dance. I don't mind/actually like some body blur to suggest motion. No, I am not panning the camera. And the lighting is typical of a large theater: iso 1600 and f/4 and 1/20 s is typical.

I think the k20d is excellent at iso 1600. To my taste the noise is film like (I actually prefer it to the k-x)--but I expose to the right and actually if I nail it I am about 1/2 stop overexposed which is no problem in raw. The lights tend to be "hot" and often some white areas are featureless.

Anyway the aesthetic in looking at theatre shots maybe a bit different. I have exhibited them at 2ftx3ft (in the theater lobby) and noise is not an issue. If they were being sold as fine art rather than documenting the theater/dance production some people may object (although not in my mind/to my taste).

Oh--and yes 1.5~2 hours, the duration of the production, or the act. No options on SR in either of my cameras--either on or of!

[DSims]

Generally I shoot at 1/60 to 1/15 s and FL 21-200mm. The longer time for dance. I don't mind/actually like some body blur to suggest motion. No, I am not panning the camera. And the lighting is typical of a large theater: iso 1600 and f/4 and 1/20 s is typical.

I think the k20d is excellent at iso 1600. To my taste the noise is film like (I actually prefer it to the k-x)--but I expose to the right and actually if I nail it I am about 1/2 stop overexposed which is no problem in raw. The lights tend to be "hot" and often some white areas are featureless.

Anyway the aesthetic in looking at theatre shorts maybe a bit different. I have exhibited them at 2ftx3ft (in the theater lobby) and noise is not an issue. If they were being sold as fine art rather than documenting the theater/dance production some people may object (although not in my mind/to my taste).

Oh--and yes 1.5~2 hours, the duration of the production, or the act.

If you don't mind the motion blur, I can see how SR would be helpful - especially with the longer lenses (since, in my experience, SR works well around 1/20s at any focal length (although I have no lenses over 300mm). So at 200mm 1/20s could be a mess without SR.

Also, good point about the appearance of the noise - it does matter. Do you put one lens on each body and use both?

[dms]

I hadn't implemented this full time SR before--but I recently read that the K-5 keeps SR on several seconds after the half push. If that is true and SR is always used--100,000 actuations are equivalent to many hours of SR on (about 300 hours).

Thus I am thinking the wear on the bearings is likely minor. But there may heat problems running the motor all the time [I presume there is one?}. That is one concern I have. And others? Maybe some of you have some knowledge/experience to bring to bear.

(DSims--I usually put a 21 or 24mm lens zone focused on the k-x (this gives me most of/the full stage) and switch lenses on the K-20d. Straight dance I may keep a fast 35mm on it the whole time. Straight theatre (plays) I likely use a 70-210mm zoom most of the time--which gets me portraits of the actors. No tripod/monopod as I need to be fluid/catch the action. And if it is an actual performance (not a rehearsal) a tripod/monopod is out anyway! Yes, two cameras--I sometimes borrow a friend's K20d and make it 3 cameras--but mostly I use one camera for a prolonged period, and then switch for the different perspective, or because of issues using split screen vs. regular screen. And yes the K-20d easily handles 200mm at 1/20s w/ SR--the k-x is less capable in this regard [for me].)

BTW I meant (presumably it was obvious) the shorter time for dance--i.e., tend towards 1/60 sec (and tending towards 1/15 sec for plays/slower action.)

[Gimbal]

Thus I am thinking the wear on the bearings is likely minor. But there may heat problems running the motor all the time [I presume there is one?}. That is one concern I have. And others? Maybe some of you have some knowledge/experience to bring to bear.

As long as the mirror is down the servomotors are off anyway, even if you half press and SR is on. So they will not heat up at all. So unless you are in live view there is no extra wear on anything mechanical, only the accelerometers and the processor is engaged.

I have two K-5 bodies, each with well over 100K exposures ( 110K & 125K) with SR on, mostly dance & theater, no problems. Used one last night in rehearsal along with my two newer K5-IIs bodies. Yep, was running a 12-24, 28-75 and 50-135 at same time. I turn off all the NR and use SR, tracking and establishing focus with the rear AF button so when I press the shutter, it goes. I have a callous on my right thumb.

Everything on my web sites was shot this way, manual exposure and rear AF, except for the rare tripod mounted stuff. I don't get much time for that.

[Just1MoreDave]

I was interested in any ideas people have about the potential problems associated w/ making the SR full time (on order of 2 hours) on. I can (and did) do it easily by a length of photo tape with a wadded area bridging over the shutter release button.

After turning camera on I set the tape in place so it keeps a half push on the shutter release button. My idea is for the 2 hours I am shooting theater production to leave it on. Thought about it in the past but did not set it up it till now. I have a K20d (and k-x) and thought I would try it on the k20d.

Wired remotes have the ability to do the same kind of shutter half-press, and are cheap. You could modify a remote and the K20D has the socket for it. The K-x has no socket, though.

[dms]

Thanks for the comments/explanations. I feel comfortable now to go ahead and use it.

The wired remote does it--but as I am hand holding the camera it is less convenient. The tape over the shutter release button is not in the way--except that I need to remove it to turn the camera on/off.

Makes you wonder why Pentax didn't design it to be on all the time--not just after the half push. I am sure I am not alone in not waiting for the SR to become operational, whether because one needs to be quick, or one forgets to wait--both of which happen to me with some non-trivial frequency.

---------- Post added 03-13-14 at 10:46 PM ----------

Oh--maybe because of live view constraints--as noted above

[JASMAZ77]

SR is what? please stop abbreviating!!

[awaldram]

SR is what? please stop abbreviating!!

SR = Shake Reduction it's printed in Big gold letters on the front of your camera.!

[Parallax]

SR is what? please stop abbreviating!!

just say shake reduction in here!! sr could mean anything! stop abbreviating

SR is a common abbreviation and its meaning is widely known by those familiar with Pentax cameras. You will find many common abbreviations on the forum; FL, FF, FOV. OOF, IQ, and many more. It is accepted that most people involved in the forum understand those abbreviations and those who don't will either look them up, or simply ask a question rather than trying to dictate to someone else how they should construct their posts.
Also, you may want to learn to end your sentences with a period instead of an exclamation mark. People don't like being shouted at.