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08-21-2014, 12:44 PM   #46
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I wrote a simple article a while ago that goes over the histogram basics.

Using the Histogram to Get Better Photos - Articles and Tips - Pentax News & Photo Resources

08-21-2014, 12:47 PM   #47
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I don't see why it's necessary to persuade anybody... if it's blown out on your jpeg, it's blown out on your RAW image. So it makes no difference and I don't care. I use the Histogram to go as low as -5 EV on some shots and +5 EV on others. There is simply no other way to do this accurately. If you don't use a histogram fine, does that make it useless? Hardly.

Using the histogram is the easy way to get this at -3 EV


Instead of a blown out sky like this with a normal exposure.


The histogram allows you to see exactly how low you can go and still maintain image detail. Whether it's working from the raw or jpeg... who cares. I defy you to prove there's a functional difference unless you're hotdogging your images with special effects etc.

Also note the improved contrast because I kept the large part of the histogram to the left (an artifact of digital capture). My point of view is, if you aren't using the histogram, you probably don't know how to use it. I use it almost every shot.

If you don't use it, you'll never know what it can do for you.

Last edited by normhead; 08-21-2014 at 12:55 PM.
08-21-2014, 01:21 PM   #48
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I treat histogram blowouts like we used to treat the needle going into the red when recording something onto analog cassette. You can get away with a little and pushing it close usually produces the best result. But too much and it's ruined.

I'm also fairly certain the histogram is based on the jpeg preview because blown highlights on the camera can disappear when viewing the raw in LR before applying any edits. As long as they aren't severe anyway.
08-22-2014, 04:37 AM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattb123 Quote
I treat histogram blowouts like we used to treat the needle going into the red when recording something onto analog cassette. You can get away with a little and pushing it close usually produces the best result. But too much and it's ruined.

I'm also fairly certain the histogram is based on the jpeg preview because blown highlights on the camera can disappear when viewing the raw in LR before applying any edits. As long as they aren't severe anyway.
That's exactly it, blown out on the back of the camera does not necessarily mean it's blown out in the raw file. The fanatical about this will delve into something like UniWB where you set the WB to something whacked in order to trick the camera into giving a more accurate raw histogram at the expense of a bizarre looking jpeg preview. I've been content to leave the jpeg settings at near the factory baseline and letting experience determine just how big of a blinky area will mean that the raw file is trashed. (As always, do what works for you)

08-22-2014, 09:54 AM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by BrianR Quote
That's exactly it, blown out on the back of the camera does not necessarily mean it's blown out in the raw file. The fanatical about this will delve into something like UniWB where you set the WB to something whacked in order to trick the camera into giving a more accurate raw histogram at the expense of a bizarre looking jpeg preview. I've been content to leave the jpeg settings at near the factory baseline and letting experience determine just how big of a blinky area will mean that the raw file is trashed. (As always, do what works for you)
Just remember the cassette!
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