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05-12-2008, 07:49 PM   #1
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Rear converter A 2x-S

Any advice / experience out there on using one of these with a SMC 300* on a K10D for sports action (motorcycle racing) ?

05-12-2008, 07:55 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alan Quote
Any advice / experience out there on using one of these with a SMC 300* on a K10D for sports action (motorcycle racing) ?
I don't have the 2X, but I do have the 1.4X -S and it works fine on my 400/5.6. I don't know why the S version should not work OK on the *300. The L version might be better. I cannot use the L on my old M 400 because the lens throat is too small for the extension. The L's won't mount on the lens.
05-12-2008, 08:36 PM   #3
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I have 2X S teleconverter and it is quite a nice one in fact. The problem with it is manual focus on various A* tele photo lenses being not so easy, comparing to 1.4 or 2x L tele

Again, you would need at least 1 stop down to get a decent sharp image and bokeh does get "wrinkly" for some reasons.

For sports, it is quite dark to use this with f2.8 telephotos. Not to mention sport car shoots. You would better look other alternatives for this intent.
05-13-2008, 03:35 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by roentarre Quote
I have 2X S teleconverter and it is quite a nice one in fact. The problem with it is manual focus on various A* tele photo lenses being not so easy, comparing to 1.4 or 2x L tele

Again, you would need at least 1 stop down to get a decent sharp image and bokeh does get "wrinkly" for some reasons.

For sports, it is quite dark to use this with f2.8 telephotos. Not to mention sport car shoots. You would better look other alternatives for this intent.
If you are using the A series lens why should it be dark using a f4 in broad daylight ? The F4 would be wide opne and ok you have lost a couple of stops with the rear converter but that still gives f6.3. I focus on the point at which I wish to take the shot and wait for the rider to reach that position before clicking. Why wouldn't that work?

05-13-2008, 04:15 AM   #5
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Everything is possible. When you have moving subject at a fast speed, shutter speed needs to be at least faster than 1/500 second at least for freeze action. Manual focusing is already time consuming enough even to pre-focus on a spot (which point on the track to be focused?). f6.3 aperture is not going to be sharp at all and one stop down like f8 would be a preferred aperture. Then you got an issue to have f8, shutter speed requirement of at least 1/500 sec. This is quite a difficult to task doing such a task with this set up.

Most of the car shots look good with panning and that is another extra thing to do as well.

This is just an advice. Maybe you could achieve the impossible that only a few in the world could do this well.
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