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02-16-2015, 08:19 PM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikeSF Quote
here's another using the DA15:
Mike, is that at full shift? It's deceiving, that first pic of the house looks like so much more correction than something like this.

02-17-2015, 08:24 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by chiane Quote
Mike, is that at full shift? It's deceiving, that first pic of the house looks like so much more correction than something like this.
i'm not sure how much was applied to that last example as it required less adjustment than some of the more extreme shots with the 10-20
02-18-2015, 03:08 PM   #48
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Brenizer method with software assistance could be possible in theory (using large frame lenses) Or maybe changing of registration distances (the later is obv not as useful for pentax)
02-18-2015, 03:19 PM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by doggy1972 Quote
Brenizer method with software assistance could be possible in theory (using large frame lenses) Or maybe changing of registration distances (the later is obv not as useful for pentax)
how?
please explain this. thx

02-18-2015, 04:27 PM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikeSF Quote
how?
please explain this. thx
Possibly with in camera automated stitching but, prob need a HUGE lens to do it. I did say in theory
Registration distance movement to negate the need for adapters on mirrorless cameras when using off brand lenses. The body would have to be deep to cater for this and, this is assuming movement is possible on the x axis.
Just dreaming or more than likely talking out of me derriere

On reflection it would prob need a HUGE sensor (or something like that)

Last edited by doggy1972; 02-18-2015 at 04:46 PM.
04-12-2015, 05:55 PM   #51
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How does this work on the K-3? After shifting and taking a photo, the shifting options don't re-appear so i couldn't take succeeding shots.
04-13-2015, 02:43 AM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by mazinger Quote
How does this work on the K-3? After shifting and taking a photo, the shifting options don't re-appear so i couldn't take succeeding shots.
If the K-3 is like the K-5, you can continue to take photos with the same correction. Once you want to change it you need to for example go into the menu, that will reset it, and then you can start from scratch.

04-13-2015, 03:09 AM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by kadajawi Quote
If the K-3 is like the K-5, you can continue to take photos with the same correction. Once you want to change it you need to for example go into the menu, that will reset it, and then you can start from scratch.
Yes, as long as you stay in live view your correction will stick.

Leaving and re-entering live view (in any way by any means) will reset the adjustment and prompt for a new one. I don't think it's possible to disable that behaviour.
04-13-2015, 07:17 AM   #54
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that's right, if you press play to view the image, for example, you are taken out of the correction view. However, if you choose to save last adjustment in the options, when you go back to the "composition adjust", you will not need to set it again for subsequent images, unless you recompose.
04-13-2015, 04:03 PM   #55
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Thanks for all the responses. However, I'm still not getting it. The photo below shows what I'm getting on the LCD screen as soon as I finished an adjustment and took the first shot. Notice the rectangular box with arrows to the left of the battery icon. At this point the camera is still in the composition adjustment mode. Now when i try to adjust for the second shot by pressing any of the four-way directional button the K-3 displays the function on the button pressed instead of adjusting the composition. i.e. LEFT button shows the WB options, UP button shows the drive mode. How can I do the adjustment at this point?
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04-13-2015, 06:28 PM - 1 Like   #56
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Simple. You leave composition adjustment and start from scratch. I have the feature on the Fx button near the lens, so I don't have to go through the trouble of going through the menu.
04-13-2015, 07:13 PM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by kadajawi Quote
Simple. You leave composition adjustment and start from scratch. I have the feature on the Fx button near the lens, so I don't have to go through the trouble of going through the menu.
agree. Also, like that you suggested assigning the fx button to composition adjust. Mine is perpetually assigned to exposure bracketing, but as a slight workaround, i set the menu to return to last screen i used, so it will return to the composition adjust page to save some scrolling, fwiw.

Last edited by mikeSF; 04-14-2015 at 08:24 AM.
04-14-2015, 07:59 AM   #58
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Tnx MikeSF, I will try to remember use this feature. I did know about it but did think it was something useless in real situation but looks like it can be very useful
04-18-2015, 01:10 PM   #59
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Because this feature is so exciting to me, I went to the store and played with it for a while. I got so little shift out of it that for me it's not really worth it.

The em5m2 and the em-1 both have a way to simulate full shifting with Jpegs in camera, but they seem to crop a lot out to do it, and you can't do it with bracketing or raw. Seems like nothing in camera is all that great at the end of the day. I was hoping for more of a miracle and brought back down to reality. I was going to get the k-3 for this feature alone, but I will probably rule it out as a reason to buy the camera one way or the other. Back to using Photoshop for now.
04-19-2015, 08:37 AM - 2 Likes   #60
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QuoteOriginally posted by chiane Quote
Because this feature is so exciting to me, I went to the store and played with it for a while. I got so little shift out of it that for me it's not really worth it.

The em5m2 and the em-1 both have a way to simulate full shifting with Jpegs in camera, but they seem to crop a lot out to do it, and you can't do it with bracketing or raw. Seems like nothing in camera is all that great at the end of the day. I was hoping for more of a miracle and brought back down to reality. I was going to get the k-3 for this feature alone, but I will probably rule it out as a reason to buy the camera one way or the other. Back to using Photoshop for now.
What Olympus does sounds like they are doing Photoshop. What Pentax does is shift the sensor in camera, basically like a shift lens. But of course there are limits to what can be done, a shift lens can be moved further than the sensor can.

It is better than nothing, but don't expect any miracles. It will give you a better file to work with in Photoshop though.
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