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02-02-2007, 10:03 AM   #16
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i dont have a K10 either jeffkrol.. i also have problems knowing what the correct amount of "sharpening" is..

life is made a little easier for me thow.. i own a k100 which together with the k110 seems to be the only pentax dslr which hasnt been knocked for its jpeg abilities..

i shoot jpegs mostly.. i tend to produce lots of pictures as opposed to the carefully produced single method.. the whole raw proccess as it stands at the moment is just too slow and cluncky for me..

having my camera produced jpegs come out as good as i think they can be everything else taken into considerarion is important to me..

soo my message to mr pentax is .. better (as soft or as sharp as i want them) camera produced jpegs please.. so so ones are not good enough.. he he

one day i might own a k10..

just my views thow..

trog


Last edited by trog100; 02-02-2007 at 10:08 AM.
02-02-2007, 10:13 AM   #17
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JPG sharpness not an issue

This has been discussed and tested on DPR. One of the members did a test and found that in normal mode the jpg's are soft, and bumping sharpness didn't help. But if you set it to bright mode then the jpg's are very sharp.

Chris Miller's test results can be seen here

SharpnessTest.jpg photo - Chris Miller photos at pbase.com


Les
02-02-2007, 10:31 AM   #18
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Your right about not making a difference unless you view at 100% but a lot of my photos need to be heavily cropped and it will show....Bob
02-02-2007, 10:39 AM   #19
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i have tried to find out what "bright mode" does exactly on my k100.. i think it just boosts the contrast.. saturation and sharpness compared to natural mode.. so it figures biright mode will produce seemingly sharper looking images if the k10 behaves in the same way..

i find that my k100 in bright mode with a minus 1 on the saturation is similar to natural with a plus 1 on the sharpness.. the k100 has a tendency to blow the reds.. the k10 dosnt do this as badly..

everything connected with picture taking seems to be a trade off.. he he

trog

ps.. u must be a prime man bob.. another trade off.. he he

02-02-2007, 10:39 AM   #20
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Thanks Brew1brew. For those who, like RiceHigh expect their jpegs to come out of the camera fully formed, the answer is in "Bright", and it was there all along (see the section headed "Make a wise choice of finishing touch to create a desired image"). The advice found there for "Natural" applies more to me.

Last edited by Simon; 02-02-2007 at 10:51 AM. Reason: correct typo
02-02-2007, 12:01 PM   #21
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come on simon "fully formed" isnt the right description.. i could equally say "not fuzzy blobs"..

i wrote more but for fear of sounding too much like R/H i deleted it.. he he

trog

ps.. i dont think the k10 produces "fuzzy blobs".. but from what i see some of the earlier pentax offerings did..
02-02-2007, 12:24 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by trog100 Quote
come on simon "fully formed" isnt the right description.. i could equally say "not fuzzy blobs"... i dont think the k10 produces "fuzzy blobs".. but from what i see some of the earlier pentax offerings did..
Sorry, but that was my attempt at pleasing everybody. Jpegs often need some tweaking to get the most out of them, though they aren't "half formed" in the way raw files are. I would rather apply sharpening after this tweaking (if at all). If you want to get what some (not necessarily me) might consider unaturally sharp results straight out of the camera, that's what "Bright" is for. Not everyone thinks the characteristically digital supersharp "look" is a good thing.

I tend not to sharpen many images, and not much on the others. Although I have previously only had a digicam I have always had it set to do as little sharpening as possible in camera - it works best for me that way

Simon
02-02-2007, 01:10 PM   #23
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just recently i have presented some of my images on a photo critique forum simon.. more to compare my own likes and dislikes with those of others.. i am more lost and confused now than when i started as to what exactly makes a good photograph..

i go for natural.. they say it needs more "pop".. they think i am a bit of a purist.. i think in pursuit of art they have gone too far.. he he

one think i like about my k100 is the lack of digital noise.. i can tweak my jpegs if i feel the need far more than i can tweak the images from my panasonic FZ20.. sharpness is never a problem with the FZ20 but the images it produces fall apart when any attempt to alter them afterwards is made..

the bottom line here is.. a decent artifact and noise free jpeg is worth its weight in gold.. to me at least it is.. it means i dont have to to put up with the extra work shooting raw brings..

a good noise and artifact free jpeg is "almost" as workable as raw data..

trog

02-02-2007, 04:41 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by trog100 Quote
the bottom line here is.. a decent artifact and noise free jpeg is worth its weight in gold.. to me at least it is.. it means i dont have to to put up with the extra work shooting raw brings..

a good noise and artifact free jpeg is "almost" as workable as raw data..
Oh dear, we seem to be agreeing again.

Simon
02-02-2007, 06:26 PM   #25
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jpeg for snap shots

Definition of JPEG format:
is Joint Photographic Experts Group file format. A compression algorithm for condensing the size of image files. JPEGs are helpful in allowing access to full screen image files on-line because they require less storage and are therefore quicker to download into a web page.

Definition of TIFF format:
is Tagged Image File Format, typically used for saving files to be used in print applications.

Definition RAW Image Format:
RAW image format allows the camera to store uncompressed or enhanced pictures.
02-03-2007, 06:38 AM   #26
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RAW is enhanced with extra data. DNG and PEF are RAW format what the diff you know wat i say.
02-03-2007, 08:53 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Xgear Quote
RAW is enhanced with extra data. DNG and PEF are RAW format what the diff you know wat i say.
The K10D PEF RAW file format is compressed, but Pentax have never told us about that if the compression is lossy or lossless. Actually, Pentax have never mentioned about the PEF is compressed. In the user manual and for what the camera shows, it is the same file size as the DNG. But practically, the PEF is of smaller sizes (than the DNG).

So, everything remains a mystery. And no typical K10 users know about the actual image quality difference between the PEF and the DNG.
02-03-2007, 03:04 PM   #28
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Best analysis of the bright vs natural +2 sharpening comparison.
THANK YOU Bart..................
Bart's Blog
02-04-2007, 07:01 AM   #29
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:-))))))))

But some Pentaxians (or maybe mainly those fanboys) just can't accept or understand the contradictory thing that: A Pentax lover who bashes Pentax, or, A Pentax basher who loves Pentax! ;-D LOL!

QuoteOriginally posted by trog100 Quote
i think R/H loves pentax.. he has as much "brand loyalty" as any fanboy.. but..

he hates the self imposed blindness which brand loyalty seems to bring about..

he thinks this is bad for pentax and is working against the odds to point out what he thinks could/should be improved which will ultimately be good for pentax and make his favoured brand a better brand..

i think his heart is in the right place.. he he

trog

ps.. but in the popularity stakes he aint gonna win any prizes..
02-04-2007, 07:25 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by jeffkrol Quote
Best analysis of the bright vs natural +2 sharpening comparison.
THANK YOU Bart..................
Bart's Blog
Very interesting experiment and analysis. Thanks for the info.

However, and maybe unfortunately, what is said by Bart in his conclusion is exactly what Phil Askey says in his review but *not* what Roland Mabo always says (bright mode will resolve the "edge sharpness" issue).

So, now everything are agreeing so far, this explains also why Imatest shows low LW/PH resolution figures with the K10D for the other tests I have seen.

Actually, to do Fourier transform to see the frequency response is interesting. But Imatest measurement on a set MTF (typically at 50%) is the most direct way to get and intrepret the results. That's what Photodo did carry out extensive tests in this similar way (despite they fixed the test chart spatial frequency first and then measure the MTF instead, and to plot the charts).

Doing the test in "physical" domain would be a more practical approach than in "frequency" domain, I think, just because there is actually not much processing in the frequency domain to be done, I bet (unlike audio signal processing, etc.)

Phil Askey do use eyes to judge where the resolution have arrived, but this will not be wrong neither, as everything is indeed so easy to be judged on the shot chart. And, he posts every resolution chart test shots for us to verify, too.
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