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05-19-2008, 08:21 PM   #1
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Which of the K1* bodies works best with M-lenses?

I've read that the K10D isn't the most consistent with respect to exposure when using non-A lenses (i.e., K- and M- series lenses).

I'm aware that the K100s have been discontinued. However, I'm considering picking up a new or near-new body while I can, to resurrect some vintage glass (Vivitar 24mm F2, Pentax M 50mm F1.7, Kiron 80-200mm F4, Pentax M 28mm F2.8, etc.).

So, which of the recent Pentax DSLRs work best with my old lenses?

Is the K20D any better than the K10D? Is the K200D any better than the K10D?

Thanks!

-Gavin

05-19-2008, 10:01 PM   #2
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I had a K10D for 10 months before trading up to a K20D. Both are perfectly able to handle my suite of M lenses with few exposure problems. Since you will be shooting in manual anyway with the older lenses, a test shot and then adjustment is the way to go. No metering system is perfect.
05-20-2008, 05:49 AM   #3
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None.

No K bodies will work best with pre-A or K/M lenses, just because they all have the K-mount crippled:-

K Mount Metering & Exposure Bases - A Technical Brief

I'm afraid that the only Pentax DSLR body which could work properly is the never marketed MZ-D (or the latterly named K-1 which is now placed in the Pentax museum at Tokyo).

QuoteOriginally posted by gavinhw Quote
I've read that the K10D isn't the most consistent with respect to exposure when using non-A lenses (i.e., K- and M- series lenses).

I'm aware that the K100s have been discontinued. However, I'm considering picking up a new or near-new body while I can, to resurrect some vintage glass (Vivitar 24mm F2, Pentax M 50mm F1.7, Kiron 80-200mm F4, Pentax M 28mm F2.8, etc.).

So, which of the recent Pentax DSLRs work best with my old lenses?

Is the K20D any better than the K10D? Is the K200D any better than the K10D?

Thanks!

-Gavin
05-20-2008, 07:38 AM - 1 Like   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by RiceHigh Quote
No K bodies will work best with pre-A or K/M lenses, just because they all have the K-mount crippled:-
Just about the time I think you have come to your senses and are trying to become a valuable member of this community, you make a ridiculous post like this. The OP asked a simple question and you turn it into a chance to take a swipe at Pentax.

The answer to the question is the manual lenses work equally well, or in your opinion, equally bad, on all the k x D bodies. I use them 80% of the time and they work fine. Use the green button to get close to the right setting then "Chimp" for the perfect exposure. Not a perfect solution but you are using a 20 year old lens that cost you a fraction of a new one.

regards,

Ken

05-20-2008, 08:23 AM   #5
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Thx everybody for your input.

Not ideal, but green button + chimping seems to be the way to go.

-Gavin
05-20-2008, 08:42 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by regken Quote
Just about the time I think you have come to your senses and are trying to become a valuable member of this community, you make a ridiculous post like this. The OP asked a simple question and you turn it into a chance to take a swipe at Pentax.
It is not ridiculous, just because of the various problems created owing to the crippled body K-mount.

QuoteQuote:
The answer to the question is the manual lenses work equally well, or in your opinion, equally bad, on all the k x D bodies. I use them 80% of the time and they work fine. Use the green button to get close to the right setting then "Chimp" for the perfect exposure. Not a perfect solution but you are using a 20 year old lens that cost you a fraction of a new one.
Perfect exposure? Work like a chime? I don't think so. It usually underexposes. Moreover, the light meter fall out of the metering range without a warning when the available light is less and/or when the aperture is stopped down more. And, it works only in M mode (but not Av) and it works slowly and need to push the green button once more.

If the K-mount is not crippled, why old K-mount owners need to suffer from all the above problems?

To let you know it is not working properly, what I can share is that my Takumar M42 on a Canon 5D combo exposures faster and better than any Takumar or even K lenses on a K series DSLR! Don't believe it? Just try it out for yourself! (Hints: Just set the 5D (or any other EOS DSLR) in P or Av mode, choose the desired aperture and take the pictures)
05-20-2008, 09:59 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by RiceHigh Quote

Perfect exposure? Work like a chime? I don't think so. It usually underexposes. Moreover, the light meter fall out of the metering range without a warning when the available light is less and/or when the aperture is stopped down more. And, it works only in M mode (but not Av) and it works slowly and need to push the green button once more.
For gods sake. The guy asked a simple question and you turn it into a tirade. I said Chimp not chime. Do you even know what chimping means? Offer help will you? You have a lot of knowledge, don't waste it on bitching. The guy wants to know how to get the most out of his manual lenses on a K body, not a discourse on how it could be better or why it is not as good as something else.

Ken
05-20-2008, 01:31 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by regken Quote
For gods sake. The guy asked a simple question and you turn it into a tirade. I said Chimp not chime. Do you even know what chimping means? Offer help will you? You have a lot of knowledge, don't waste it on bitching. The guy wants to know how to get the most out of his manual lenses on a K body, not a discourse on how it could be better or why it is not as good as something else.

Ken
Second the motion. The exposure "problem" with the K10D is really quite simple. We are trying to use 30 year old lenses on 1 or 2 year old cameras. Here is a shot that just might give you an idea of how the K10D works with a Pentax M 400mm f/5.6. I checked the exposure with this lens on the K10D, and find that it meters perfectly at f/8. So now that's all I do: meter at f/8.

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05-20-2008, 03:52 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by gavinhw Quote
Thx everybody for your input.

Not ideal, but green button + chimping seems to be the way to go.

-Gavin
Brief research seems to point to the K100.
I was actually surprised to see that it behaved like the D series.
All the rest have wonky green button metering, though there are workarounds...
Using a DS focusing screen is one option for the "other" K series cameras.
05-20-2008, 03:55 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by RiceHigh Quote
It is not ridiculous, just because of the various problems created owing to the crippled body K-mount.



To let you know it is not working properly, what I can share is that my Takumar M42 on a Canon 5D combo exposures faster and better than any Takumar or even K lenses on a K series DSLR! Don't believe it? Just try it out for yourself! (Hints: Just set the 5D (or any other EOS DSLR) in P or Av mode, choose the desired aperture and take the pictures)
Love to see the compairson shots, taken of the same scene at approx the same time................... in this lifetime.....................................

Put up or........................
05-20-2008, 04:00 PM   #11
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I've never had any problems with M or A lenses on the istDL or my K100. They work well.
OH and BTW It is highly known that Rice High knows nothing in respect to camera Lenses of taking pictures. He is known how ever to be a Pentax bashing Troll. (Just my opinion)
05-20-2008, 05:35 PM   #12
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I have been playing around with M42 stuff now ... and I can't say I have come across any problems with them on my K10D ... seems to meter fine ... unless the available light is poor ... but that is with any lens really.
02-26-2016, 08:06 AM   #13
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Check the photo out. This was when I had just a few lens. This expanded out to nearly 200 before I started to sell them off. About 3/4 of them are or were manual focus. K mounts and screw mounts as well as t mounts. All I ever did to shoot these is put the selector on AV and dial the aperture setting to what I wanted and let the camera select a shutter speed. Worked great for me . You get a green ball in the viewfinder and a beep when at focus too. I shot this way with a K10D, a KX and a K7. I'll probably do the same with the K1 when I get it.
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02-27-2016, 09:42 AM   #14
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As others have mentioned, all the dSLR bodies will behave quite similarly and exposure will tend to be off slightly in a similar way, generally underexposing. So, it comes down mostly to how well the sensor on any body responds to exposure variation. Starting with the KX/KR series, the sensors responded quite well to underexposure, and this has been especially true with the K-5 and all bodies following that. Of course, RAW images can tolerate underexposure better than JPEG.

As such, if you plan to work in post on most of your RAW images, the significance of the problem has diminished with the newer cameras. This topic and ETTR threads have nearly disappeared for good reason.
02-27-2016, 09:50 AM - 1 Like   #15
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Oh man. Someone resurrected a thread that Rice Low posted in...
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