[ftpaddict]

Or like looking through the viewfinder with no lens on.

I've tried both and I beg to differ.

[CGJung]

The K10D's focusing screen is smaller than the *ist series' focusing screen. I think that's why you don't need the shim. I know for sure that the K10Ds focusing screen is smaller because I tried to cut a focusing screen for a K10D using an istDL template, and it won't fit.

I don't have the Katz focusing screen, but I bought one from jinfinance of ebay and put it on my DL and can not be happier. It does change the metering a 'lil bit and I compensate with -1/3EV.

For the K10D I cut the focusing screen from pentax m focusing screen, the one with split prisms and collar. I also put grid lines on it. Both focusing screens are really great helper to me.

I'm pretty sure several other people in this forum have purchased split prism screens from this ebay seller as well. The one thing I'll mention is that I didn't need the "shim" included with the screen when mounting the cheap screen in my K10D, but I had to use the shim when I mounted the cheap screen in my DL. I just thought I'd mention it so you don't throw away the tiny U-shaped shim that comes with the screen if you purchase the screen from the ebay seller (you might need it) depending on the camera.

[MRRiley]

Just got my Katz Eye (basic split prism/collar, no bells or whistles) for my K10D yesterday and from early tests it appears to be a real winner. Easy to install and appears very bright. AF seems totally unaffected but I will test this and exposure out this weekend.

[morfic]

Just got my Katz Eye (basic split prism/collar, no bells or whistles) for my K10D yesterday and from early tests it appears to be a real winner. Easy to install and appears very bright. AF seems totally unaffected but I will test this and exposure out this weekend.

No focusing screen is ever going to affect your AF, the sensors are not anywhere near your screen
But it makes me wanna try a split prism/microprism collar focusing screen hearing an excited user
Just worry i get a repeat of my Haoda screen + 30D experience, it was never spot on.

[stevebrot]

Just got my Katz Eye (basic split prism/collar, no bells or whistles) for my K10D yesterday and from early tests it appears to be a real winner. Easy to install and appears very bright. AF seems totally unaffected but I will test this and exposure out this weekend.

Does spot metering still work? I heard there were issues.

Steve

[cornishk100duser]

Just got my Katz Eye (basic split prism/collar, no bells or whistles) for my K10D yesterday and from early tests it appears to be a real winner. Easy to install and appears very bright. AF seems totally unaffected but I will test this and exposure out this weekend.

I have the katz eye in my k100d which is being converted to IR at the moment. I found it much improved focussiing on all t he old manual lenses. I'm now patiently waiting for another one for my K20d should be arrive here next week.

[morfic]

Just installed my Katz Eye split prism focusing screen the other day in my K20D and it ROCKS!!!! I have several older manual focus lens. Because of my aging eyes I decided to try the katz eyes. Man what a big difference, it reminds me of my old film camera days. I even catch myself doing manual focus with my newer autofocus lens.

Woody,

I meant to ask this before but forgot, when you use your AF lens and AF, do you pay attention to the split prism? Do you catch AF being off and find yourself correcting it before taking the shot?
Or do you find your split prism agreeing with your AF's choice most of the time.

Thanks,

Daniel

[Peter Zack]

I'd also be interested in this answer (morfic's question) as well as does the new screen effect spot AF with an AF lens.

[morfic]

I'd also be interested in this answer (morfic's question) as well as does the new screen effect spot AF with an AF lens.

AF sensors are under the mirror(s) so no type of AF will be affected by the screen. perhaps you meant spot metering which is affected by the split prism blacking out on smaller apertures. if you can meter wide open it shouldn't cause much if any change in metering. if you need to stop down your lens to meter, then the more you stop down the more the split prism darkens and affects metering more and more.

I hope we get an answer on my question above at least before i get my jinfinance screen for my k20d, i decided to wait for the performance of the cam with the split prism installed as a second measure for consistency before asking Pentax to look at what i perceive as focusing inconsistencies.

[Peter Zack]

Yes Morfic, that's what I meant. I little misspoken question. I meant spot metering with and AF lens.

[Lowell Goudge]

Yes Morfic, that's what I meant. I little misspoken question. I meant spot metering with and AF lens.

It's really a shame, I have been asking for ANYONE who has bought a split image screen to post results using the same lens, with the new and old screen, spot metering on a uniform grey surface (my ever famous block wall) and plotting grey scale vs f-stop.

This would be specifically interesting for a fast lens, perhaps an F1.4 50mm and an F2.8 zoom, as well as the relitively slow kit lenses.

I know the issues with metering on teh K10D very well, and have tracked this down to the focusing screen, combined with a software fix for A lenses, that actually makes manual apature lens metering an interesting experience, and am really intertested in how the screen performance with K10D metering really plays out.

[morfic]

It's really a shame, I have been asking for ANYONE who has bought a split image screen to post results using the same lens, with the new and old screen, spot metering on a uniform grey surface (my ever famous block wall) and plotting grey scale vs f-stop.

This would be specifically interesting for a fast lens, perhaps an F1.4 50mm and an F2.8 zoom, as well as the relitively slow kit lenses.

I know the issues with metering on teh K10D very well, and have tracked this down to the focusing screen, combined with a software fix for A lenses, that actually makes manual apature lens metering an interesting experience, and am really intertested in how the screen performance with K10D metering really plays out.

Can't help you with K10D, but if you are at all interested in K20D results, and my patience permitting, i could do whatever test you want using my Nokton 58/1.4, may be also educational for me to know how much it changes and determine what (if any) EC to dial in.

Mine won't be a Katzeye, but one from jinfinance, which is laser cut from a K1000 split image screen.
Let me know if this helps anything.

[Lowell Goudge]

Can't help you with K10D, but if you are at all interested in K20D results, and my patience permitting, i could do whatever test you want using my Nokton 58/1.4, may be also educational for me to know how much it changes and determine what (if any) EC to dial in.

Mine won't be a Katzeye, but one from jinfinance, which is laser cut from a K1000 split image screen.
Let me know if this helps anything.

I would be interested indeed.

The test takes about 20 minutes to perform in total, including review of the data

I have attached a link to a past post, (please accept my appologies in advance for the title, ) but it shows the impact of a different focusing screen in the K10D with manual apature lenses and stopped down metering.

The test involves using green button to meter at each apature detent, and then measuring the average grey scale value of the central 10% of the image. I like block walls, side walks or paved surfaces as a target, although a grey card would also do.


https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/241716-post69.html

[morfic]

Tell me how to make the graph unless you want me to drop you the (raw) files somewhere for you to download.
BTW, my screen won't be here for about 2 weeks, which is why i was hoping to get an answer with regard to AF accuracy in the mean time.

[Lowell Goudge]

Tell me how to make the graph unless you want me to drop you the (raw) files somewhere for you to download.
BTW, my screen won't be here for about 2 weeks, which is why i was hoping to get an answer with regard to AF accuracy in the mean time.

I used Excel obviously, with the Y axis for grey scale value, and X axis with F stop. The X axis is also plotted on a log scale so that the stops are uniformly spaced.

To get the grey scale value, at least in PSP X2, I just turn on the hystogram, and it has a check box for selection or whole picture, and another selection where it reports the average and mean value of what ever curve you want, greyscale, any of the colors etc. I select grey scale.

You can simply post a table of data, F Stop, and Grey scale value, for each lens and each screen. and you can also tell me what metering mode (matrix, spot etc.) I use spot for my tests.