Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
01-22-2015, 08:06 PM   #31
Site Supporter
boriscleto's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool, NY
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 12,863
QuoteOriginally posted by Kameko Quote
I also like that idea, waiting for an A 400mm 2.8 to pop up so I'm able to pair it w/the 1.4 TC.
The A* 1200/8 comes up 2 or 3 times a year. @Clinton bought his from the Canadian government

01-22-2015, 09:09 PM   #32
Pentaxian
Miguel's Avatar

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Near Seattle
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 2,726
QuoteOriginally posted by Kameko Quote
It's about all I do now. Birds, wildlife. It's definitely not what I thought I'd spend all my time photographing.... and yes, I do see myself 5 years, 10 years later shooting birds.
Thanks for the thoughtful answer. One more Q: Do you, or are you planning on making money off your prints?
Thanks,

M
01-25-2015, 03:14 AM   #33
Veteran Member
GordonZA's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Planet Earth
Photos: Albums
Posts: 337
For really long stuff try digiscoping.
The PF-CA35 plus the 80mm scope work nicely.... Needs a tripod though. I've used mine mainly for waders...
01-26-2015, 04:00 PM   #34
Pentaxian
emalvick's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Davis, CA
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 1,475
This is a useful thread.

It would seem to me that once you get around 500 mm or larger, hand-holding is going to be difficult not only because of weight but because the limited field of view will make it a challenge to frame for your target. I have a cheap 500 mm mirror lens (I wouldn't recommend it at all), but I can hand hold it. However, my lack of steadiness has made it a challenge to frame the shots I want. If I do everything is fine.

What I'm getting at is that I'm thinking one would need a tripod regardless of the system weight.

Going back to the field of view, one should consider what the real differences are. The 560 mm lens is only about 7% smaller than a 600 mm lens. With the K3, you can make up that difference in a crop and still be over 20 MP with the original image. I'm not sure what print size or result you might be shooting for, but the one thing that keeps me honest and practical when looking at reach is thinking about (1) print size (2) resolution needed for that print size and (3) how much can you crop from the K3 to get to that size (or how much can you crop and be happy with the image). Realistically you can probably crop much further for more apparent reach just because even 20 MP is a lot. Of course you do lose some potential detail, but if you are starting at 500~600, you aren't going to do much better anyway.

I also like the earlier suggestion of using a telescope. I've not seen it done for bird photography, but I can't see why it couldn't work if it seems to work well enough for space shots. Again, it's probably just a challenge for the initial set up and framing.

01-26-2015, 08:52 PM   #35
Site Supporter
Kameko's Avatar

Join Date: May 2012
Location: White Rock
Photos: Albums
Posts: 431
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Miguel Quote
Thanks for the thoughtful answer. One more Q: Do you, or are you planning on making money off your prints?
Thanks,

M
Yes I do currently make money from selling prints Miguel.

QuoteOriginally posted by emalvick Quote
This is a useful thread.

It would seem to me that once you get around 500 mm or larger, hand-holding is going to be difficult not only because of weight but because the limited field of view will make it a challenge to frame for your target. I have a cheap 500 mm mirror lens (I wouldn't recommend it at all), but I can hand hold it. However, my lack of steadiness has made it a challenge to frame the shots I want. If I do everything is fine.

What I'm getting at is that I'm thinking one would need a tripod regardless of the system weight.

Going back to the field of view, one should consider what the real differences are. The 560 mm lens is only about 7% smaller than a 600 mm lens. With the K3, you can make up that difference in a crop and still be over 20 MP with the original image. I'm not sure what print size or result you might be shooting for, but the one thing that keeps me honest and practical when looking at reach is thinking about (1) print size (2) resolution needed for that print size and (3) how much can you crop from the K3 to get to that size (or how much can you crop and be happy with the image). Realistically you can probably crop much further for more apparent reach just because even 20 MP is a lot. Of course you do lose some potential detail, but if you are starting at 500~600, you aren't going to do much better anyway.

I also like the earlier suggestion of using a telescope. I've not seen it done for bird photography, but I can't see why it couldn't work if it seems to work well enough for space shots. Again, it's probably just a challenge for the initial set up and framing.
I don't anticipate my next "step up" lens being a hand-holdable one. I know I'll need to reinvest in a heavier-duty tripod and head. Doing a lot of thinking the past few days and I think I'll be perfectly content with the 560 + 1.4 TC. I should start doing bench presses or lifting weights to get my lazy butt in shape for having to lug that around
01-29-2015, 02:51 PM   #36
Pentaxian




Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,703
What I understand is that you'll be going to invest tons of money into your next set up and gear.

To be honest at this point if I were you thinking bird are the absolute priority for you is to not choose a body or to think that you stay Pentax.

I would take the budget I have into account, the lenses I want to have couting reach and everything and see what fit best. Look honestly how it is going to be with Nikon, Sony, Pentax... And see the lenses, sigma, Pentax, Canon, Sony, Nikon. How you feel them, how the price is acceptable etc. What would you finally prefer ?

When you have the perfect set of lense for a price you can substain, there always going to be some body for under $1000 on APSC or $2000 for FF that is going to matche the lenses. And for the other shootings (event, friends, whatever not bird related) nothing say you can't keep some pentax gear or just buy a 1-2 basic but good quality lenses (like a 24-70 f/2.8 from sigma or a 35 & 50 & 85mm f/1.8).
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
400mm, camera, da*, dslr, f4, fa, fa*, k-3, photography, system, tc, wildlife
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Should I stay? Or, should I go? mdshooting Pentax Full Frame 176 10-18-2014 03:08 AM
What lenses should stay, which should go? grimmy2016 Pentax K-r 14 07-18-2012 06:11 PM
Should I stay with Pentax or not? RUSBoris Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 29 10-26-2010 02:55 PM
Should they stay or should they go? Some of my lenses that is. jboyde Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 2 07-30-2009 01:21 PM
Oh dear - another "how much should I charge" thread khardur Photographic Industry and Professionals 10 06-09-2009 09:01 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:58 PM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top