[Fogel70]

One feature on Pentax cameras can do this, but it's a bit complex to set up.

Use P-mode with P-shift and "Sports" program line and auto-ISO.

Here I explained how it works.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/232833-cool-feat...ml#post2465299

[bavd]

It doesn't really sound like you want to do "photography".

Actually, you probably mean "Your sort of photography........"

[Jannis]

Actually, you probably mean "Your sort of photography........"

Enoeske's reactions really does not help much. It's like if to a person (who asks how to set the camera to better AF) advises that has to use manual focus - because if he needs autofocus, he do not want to do "photograph". I'm wondering why he is responding this way, I have always appreciated the very friendly atmosphere here at Pentax Forum, therefore I do not know why I should been critised just because I asked for the camera function, or advice on how to bypass its absence...



But thanks all of you, who want to help.
I will try P mode with fast shift and fast auto ISO. Today I will have good oportunity to test it in field.

Why would ISO 80 cause over exposure (picture too bright)? Do you mean under exposure?

Sounds to me that this is could just be metering incorrectly.

No - metering is fine. Its that if I use given aperture and shutter speed in TAv mode and conditions rapidly changes - correct exposure will be something about ISO 40 -but it cant bem so it leaves ISO80 end overexposure. This is not fault of mettering. Just lack of function in Av mode - shutter speed limiter (that limit shutter to do not set under given value you need),


PS: For the record, I can use Manual mode, I'm using it in certain situations, where I have a time. When I taking, for example, bird photos, I havent got time to fiddle with controls. I want to preset setting that suits my needs and let the camera auto set rest. I'm shoting for several years, but recently I have started to do some light wildlife. Thats all.

[IchabodCrane]

Enoeske's reactions really does not help much. It's like if to a person (who asks how to set the camera to better AF) advises that has to use manual focus - because if he needs autofocus, he do not want to do "photograph". I'm wondering why he is responding this way, I have always appreciated the very friendly atmosphere here at Pentax Forum, therefore I do not know why I should been critised just because I asked for the camera function, or advice on how to bypass its absence...



But thanks all of you, who want to help.
I will try P mode with fast shift and fast auto ISO. Today I will have good oportunity to test it in field.


No - metering is fine. Its that if I use given aperture and shutter speed in TAv mode and conditions rapidly changes - correct exposure will be something about ISO 40 -but it cant bem so it leaves ISO80 end overexposure. This is not fault of mettering. Just lack of function in Av mode - shutter speed limiter (that limit shutter to do not set under given value you need),


PS: For the record, I can use Manual mode, I'm using it in certain situations, where I have a time. When I taking, for example, bird photos, I havent got time to fiddle with controls. I want to preset setting that suits my needs and let the camera auto set rest. I'm shoting for several years, but recently I have started to do some light wildlife. Thats all.

Jannis, responders have been giving you options which will work yet you seem to think they won't work well enough. My suggestion is to try them. Certainly Tv mode is an option where all you have to do is raise or lower shutter speed via a single dial while looking through the viewfinder. You can go to TAv mode to control aperture as well and the fear of hitting the base ISO limit of the camera shouldn't worry you. The ISO reading in the viewfinder will flash to warn you if you're in an overexposure mode in which case just move either the shutter or aperture dial (your choice depending on the scene and what you're trying to achieve). It can all be done in an instant without taking your eye off the subject.

[jayman_1975]

Jannis, responders have been giving you options which will work yet you seem to think they won't work well enough. My suggestion is to try them. Certainly Tv mode is an option where all you have to do is raise or lower shutter speed via a single dial while looking through the viewfinder. You can go to TAv mode to control aperture as well and the fear of hitting the base ISO limit of the camera shouldn't worry you. The ISO reading in the viewfinder will flash to warn you if you're in an overexposure mode in which case just move either the shutter or aperture dial (your choice depending on the scene and what you're trying to achieve). It can all be done in an instant without taking your eye off the subject.

This is what I was trying to say. I use it when I'm shooting BIF. Keep the aperture stopped down for max DOF and then only raise or lower shutter speed depending on lighting conditions. If is blinking ISO 80 I just raise the shutter speed until it stops and stays on 80 or 100. Only needing to adjust one dial seems to work the best for me.
Mind you I'm always trying to freeze the bird so for me, the shutter speed can never be too high

[Rupert]

How I see it.....and no, I'm not a "perfectionist photographer".

The two things that matter most are speed and aperture. Most situations require that one or both be at the desired setting. If you are shooting in dim light, want 1/250 and have ISO set at 100 and aperture at f8, you are going to get a nice black screen.

It is why my normal mode is TAv, a wonderful setting where you can make fast changes and almost always get a shot that is useable. Unless in a studio setting, where M is the way to go....TAv will get you the most useable shots...I let ISO roam up to 6400, and seldom miss getting a half decent shot.

Here I needed a little speed....1/250 for a handheld Bigma...all my Bigma shots are handheld, so speed is a priority. F7.1 will give nice bokeh on the Bigma......these are jittery birds, you only have a second to make the settings, and TAv will give you that second.


With high ISO abilities now so common, this is a wonderful setting for casual or amateur shooters that don't feel the need to acquire perfection with every shot. Long live TAv!

Regards!

[Lowell Goudge]

Thanlks for your advices...





If it is in studio, M will be ok. But this is in my wildlife, birding etc.. shoting. I need high shutter speed stop down aperture a little and conditions is changing very rapidly. I havent got time to manual.
And compenstaion dosent help - it overexposes becouse on given shutter speed even ISO 80 is too much.

This is first feature that low to mid-end Nikon has and my Pentax doesn't. With almost everything else it was oposite )

For me, I shoot TAV mode and let the ISO go, a sharp shot with a little noise is infinitely preferable to no shot at all.

I shoot a K5 so is I is acceptable up into the 2000-3000 range and. As I said, I would prefer to have snooze noise than non shot

[Jannis]

Jannis, responders have been giving you options which will work yet you seem to think they won't work well enough. My suggestion is to try them. Certainly Tv mode is an option where all you have to do is raise or lower shutter speed via a single dial while looking through the viewfinder. You can go to TAv mode to control aperture as well and the fear of hitting the base ISO limit of the camera shouldn't worry you. The ISO reading in the viewfinder will flash to warn you if you're in an overexposure mode in which case just move either the shutter or aperture dial (your choice depending on the scene and what you're trying to achieve). It can all be done in an instant without taking your eye off the subject.

This is what I was trying to say. I use it when I'm shooting BIF. Keep the aperture stopped down for max DOF and then only raise or lower shutter speed depending on lighting conditions. If is blinking ISO 80 I just raise the shutter speed until it stops and stays on 80 or 100. Only needing to adjust one dial seems to work the best for me.
Mind you I'm always trying to freeze the bird so for me, the shutter speed can never be too high

Yes - today a have been testing that settings. I find that with some playing with auto ISO parametr and sport P shif - I can get desirable behaviour. So, I tested also your suggestion with TAv mode - and this will be good, only need to get used it.

these are jittery birds, you only have a second to make the settings, and TAv will give you that second.

Yes, that it what I want to say in my previous posts... I'm birding with 200mm lens (birding is not purpose for that lense - only "side efect") so I need to crop quite often - so I want to avoide ISO above 800 -1250...

Thanks all for suggestions!

[BrianR]

I've often wondered why we don't get more settings like the nikon is capable of. More customization in how the camera behaves in the semi-auto modes would be a good thing.

As mentioned, you do get a few options in the program line. It's not obviously in-line with your aims, but you might try the "Shallow Depth of Field" program line option. It seems to be biased towards keeping the lens one stop below fully open (where you may want to be), though it will fully open the lens if it needs to. Coupled with the different iso-options it might give you want you want.

Or you can go the TAv route, and set it to expose properly at iso80 in the brightest conditions you're currently encountering. For example, on a sunny day, set it to expose properly in full sun at iso80. If your subject moves into deep shade, at worst you'll end up at iso1600 if you don't have time to adjust the other settings. On that note, you might make sure you're in 1/2 EV steps and not 1/3 EV steps so it's less clicking if you want to adjust.

Best of luck finding settings that let the camera get out of your way as much as possible so you can get on with the type of photography you enjoy.

[Rupert]

TAv provides me with the best overall results. ISO varies in quality depending on the range, the light, and the subject, so if speed is required.....you take your chances.

Here at ISO 6400, the shot is as good, or better than the next one at ISO 1600.....

ISO 6400


ISO1600


Then there is the processing factor....good processing can make good results...sometimes, but not always!

Regards!

[Prakticant]

Is that true with K-5 II ?
With K-3 camera body calculates much shorter times (convenient with zoom lenses, as you do not need to adjust shutter speed when changing lens angle), but I agree with you not flexible enough for creative shooting.
Most of the photos I do now are of children, they are subject like between olympic sports and flying birds.

-----

If I choose aperture it calculate time that I can handhold, yes (with 200m it is 1/60) - but it is too slow for my subject!

What you are looking for is to my understanding:
* auto aperture range (i.e. set to 2.8 - 5.6 range);
* auto shutter speed range (i.e. 1/125 - 1/500 range)
- the equivalence of auto ISO range (i.e. 100 - 800 ISO range set through camera menu).
We may put it on a wish list to Pentax/Ricoh I guess.