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04-30-2015, 08:42 AM   #1
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Pixel Shift Idea. Was I ahead of the Curve by 8 years or so?

Posted this in 2007 on Pentax Forums...Are you watching this Pentax?

Pro Applications..Making 10.2 megapixels in to 30.6 mega pixels, sort of...

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/5868-pro-applica...ga-pixels.html

There are ways to improve the rendition of the K10D that will give it similar resolution to a Pro Back of 31.6 megpaixels. I will be shortly doing an Ad Campaign with the K10D where I could have opted for a Digital Back. I will shoot in RAW and introduce three layers with a microscopic shift on each of the layers. After doing so I will sharpen the layers at between 0.3 and 0.5 pixels at 240 to 300 percent. It works very well. What I do is use two colour layers and one B&W layer. I still use the "Soft Light" setting. I am effectively getting the impression of a 30.6 megapixel image. The pixels are all slightly offset. It really does work quite well.

Thought I would share that with you. Theoretically it is not 30.6 mega pixels, but it sure looks like it.

Ben


Last edited by benjikan; 04-30-2015 at 09:04 AM.
04-30-2015, 08:49 AM - 1 Like   #2
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Nice to see you're still around.
04-30-2015, 09:50 AM   #3
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All the links in the old post are dead can you re post an image you have done this with?
04-30-2015, 10:07 AM   #4
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How does this or the pixel shifting employed by Ricoh differ from Hasselblad's MultiShot system?

"The H5D-200c MS (Multi-Shot) differs from the standard H5D-50c by its multi-shot capability. In single-shot mode, the "MS" offers the same medium format capture as the 50c, but in Multi-Shot mode a symmetrical multi-shot frame uses piezoelectrical actuators to move the camera's sensor in one pixel and half pixel increments. In 4-shot mode, moves of 1 pixel increments record red, green, blue and green information from each pixel and combine them into one image that is free of interpolation and therefore results in more accurate colors, reduced artifacts such as moire, and heightened details. In 6-shot mode, the same 4-shot pattern is then followed by 2 additional captures in 1/2 pixel increments for extended resolution."

Hasselblad H5D-200c Multi-Shot Medium Format DSLR Camera 3013708

04-30-2015, 10:10 AM - 2 Likes   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
How does this or the pixel shifting employed by Ricoh differ from Hasselblad's MultiShot system?
It's in a camera that doesn't cost $45,000.
04-30-2015, 10:13 AM   #6
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It differs by a factor of $45,000/$1,300 and by a factor of more effective pixels on Hasselblad's system. It also differs in 16 bit vs. 14 bit colour imaging.

The above series of numbers says, in effect, that the question has as much validity as saying Oranges are better than Grapes.

The method appears to be similar: shift the sensor around to create more effective pixels.
04-30-2015, 10:43 AM - 1 Like   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
It's in a camera that doesn't cost $45,000.
The Ricoh RDC-7 did the same thing, with a 3.3 megapixel sensor it created a nearly 7 Mpixel large image by pixel shifting. This was about 15 years ago and It wasn't that expensive either.
04-30-2015, 02:42 PM   #8
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Excerpts:

Taken from my Pentax Post:

If I "Free Transformed" all at the same pixel offset there would be no effect. You take the original for example, I don't know let's say 2400 x 3600 as the original layer. The first duplicate I would make 2399 x 3599 and the second 2401x3601 and when applying Unsharp Mask I would sharpen at 0.3 to 0.5 pixels at 240 to 300 percent to compensate for the offset. Do not Flatten the layers as that would negate the size of the file.

Just remember to sharpen after the fact and on each layer to compensate for the offset. Try between 0.3 & 0.6 pixels at from 180 to 300 percent. I don't know which sensor you are using. I normally sharpen before the retouch and you are doing so as well here. Except your doing after the import from Raw and after the layers.

and

Please understand that this is a work in progress for me as well. I generally shift by "1" pixel and in doing so the image will appear ever so slightly out of focus or out of phase. What I do to compensate for this is to USM afterwards in PS to varying degrees. The numbers that seem to work for me in the final pre-press stage for the K10D is the following. From 0.3 to 0.6 pixels at 120 to 300 percent as well as 30-60 pixels at 5 to 15 percent. This will not completely offset the result but will appear more "3D" when printed. Again, as many have suggested, it is a "2D" image and the final result is obviously that. But the perceived result can be pleasing if that is what you like. If you don't want to use this idea, you may wish to try one of the USM methods I have discussed earlier on this forum.

and

Please play with the "opacity" and "fill" sliders to garner the effect you are after. After that, I go in to "Shadow-Highlight" and compensate for the increase in contrast to bring out more of the shadow detail and reduce the highlights.

and

"By the way, do you flatten before doing a shadow/highlights? Thanks again!"

You can do that for each layer and save your file as a three layer 16 bit image or flatten. To benefit from the larger file, I guess you might "S&H" for each layer, which I often do.

and

"Ok, I'm trying this and my results are getting better with every detail you add. Many thanks, Ben!"



If one layer is desaturated, should it be the bottom, middle, or top layer when blending?
Thanks again,
Will

You know, I haven't really noticed. I also often have just one B&W layer and the other two, one being the original and the other duplicate in colour. Play around with it. The colour layer the more saturated it will be. Don't forget the "Fill & Opacity Sliders". Mine usually end up about 60-80 for each...

04-30-2015, 02:53 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote
The Ricoh RDC-7 did the same thing, with a 3.3 megapixel sensor
QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote
This was about 15 years ago
There was also a JVC camera, that i believe did it before Ricoh.
04-30-2015, 03:07 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
How does this or the pixel shifting employed by Ricoh differ from Hasselblad's MultiShot system?

"The H5D-200c MS (Multi-Shot) differs from the standard H5D-50c by its multi-shot capability. In single-shot mode, the "MS" offers the same medium format capture as the 50c, but in Multi-Shot mode a symmetrical multi-shot frame uses piezoelectrical actuators to move the camera's sensor in one pixel and half pixel increments. In 4-shot mode, moves of 1 pixel increments record red, green, blue and green information from each pixel and combine them into one image that is free of interpolation and therefore results in more accurate colors, reduced artifacts such as moire, and heightened details. In 6-shot mode, the same 4-shot pattern is then followed by 2 additional captures in 1/2 pixel increments for extended resolution."

Hasselblad H5D-200c Multi-Shot Medium Format DSLR Camera 3013708
I thinks it's pretty much the same/really similar. When I heard that Oly was putting the Pixel Shift in their camera, my first thought was "That's the same thing Hasslblad did with their MF camera." HB is on a way bigger scale, 4 shots to make a 200MP photo? Those be some big ass files to work on.
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