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06-12-2008, 10:19 AM   #1
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K10D + M42 Lenses + AF540FGZ Flash - How?

Can anyone tell me if this combination will be successful? I know it's pretty straight forward with the automatic lenses, but I'd like to get more use out of my 28/50/135 M42 lenses, especially with flash. Haven't purchased the AF540 yet, so your input will help push me over the edge on the order.
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06-12-2008, 11:12 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by rormeister Quote
Can anyone tell me if this combination will be successful? I know it's pretty straight forward with the automatic lenses, but I'd like to get more use out of my 28/50/135 M42 lenses, especially with flash. Haven't purchased the AF540 yet, so your input will help push me over the edge on the order.
Thanks!
Hmm...This is interesting. I know for a fact that the P-TTL Most Likely will not work with these lenses, and I don't know if TTL Will either. I could be wrong but I believe that the K10D supports TTL, so a less expensive option might be to look to ebay for a used 500FTZ rather than the 540. Just my advice.
06-12-2008, 11:16 AM   #3
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Manual mode only, thats atleast the way it works for my Vivitar 105 macro which is from the nineteen eighties / nineties. It has electric contacts for aperture, but not for focal-length and focus (MF Lens).

I use my 540fgz flash in manual mode almost all the time anyway.
06-12-2008, 11:17 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by mapexdrummer17 Quote
Hmm...This is interesting. I know for a fact that the P-TTL Most Likely will not work with these lenses, and I don't know if TTL Will either. I could be wrong but I believe that the K10D supports TTL, so a less expensive option might be to look to ebay for a used 500FTZ rather than the 540. Just my advice.
Unfortunately for me, the K10D does not support TTL with the AF 500 FTZ. The K10D only supports P-TTL.

06-12-2008, 11:24 AM   #5
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Thanks guys. I will most likely fool around with my old Vivitar Thyristor and see if I can 'coerce' it into working. Looks like the AF540 will stay on the store shelf a little longer.
06-12-2008, 01:31 PM   #6
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Manual

I have never used a flash other than my Sunpak 383, however it seems to work just fine on its own. You could always pick up a 383 or a viv 285 and put the flash on auto and let it decide how much light to put out based on its sensor. If shooting candids, I just put the camera in manual, setup to the chart on the camera while the flash is in auto mode an just start to shoot. My shots seem to come out fine. I check now and again if the room lighting has changed, but it seems to hit pretty good. This is how I shot my Christmas shots I went thru 2 sets of batteries on the 383. You can get these pretty cheaply too, probably about 20% of the 540.
06-12-2008, 01:39 PM   #7
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The AF-540FGZ will work if you put it in A mode instead of P-TTL mode.

Of course, if you're using on-flash metering (A mode), you may as well get a MUCH cheaper autoflash such as the Vivitar 285HV or the Sunpak 383.
06-12-2008, 01:46 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by rormeister Quote
Can anyone tell me if this combination will be successful? I know it's pretty straight forward with the automatic lenses, but I'd like to get more use out of my 28/50/135 M42 lenses, especially with flash. Haven't purchased the AF540 yet, so your input will help push me over the edge on the order.
Thanks!
As others have noted use the Auto Mode on the flash with it's built in sensor.

if you really want good flash, get an *istD, it has TTL flash

06-12-2008, 02:01 PM   #9
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Thanks again everyone. I'm going to experiment with the Vivitar. It's actually worked well with my Sigma 17-70 in Manual. So it's probably about the same with the old primes.
06-13-2008, 04:11 AM   #10
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using manual flash...

if you know the guide number (GN) to a flash gun or in camera the formula is as follows:

GN = aperture x distance; OR GN divided by aperture = distance; OR GN divided by distance = aperture.

Normally you know two of the three things so you should be able to work it out.

So if you know the guide number to be 32 and your subject is 4 metres away, set aperture to f8

or if GN is 32 and you set aperture to f11 your subject should be 3 metres away GN32= 11x3


So what I do is work out what aperture I want and then the flash to subject distance I need to be for the flash to be right.

The thing to remember is aperture controls flash exposure; shutter controls ambient light exposure. Use a slow shutter speed for the sunset, aperture + flash for the foreground etc etc!

It's worth mucking around with it with a roll of film and testing yourself. It's actually not too hard once you start.

Be careful using old flash guns though or you might fry the electrics of your DSLR.

For those using manual flash with their DSLRs it would be worth using rear curtain sync and a slow shutter speed for some creative results. But for the flash exposure use the above formula to work out your aperture and subject distance for correct exposure.

You don't need TTL etc if you understand what you're doing and make the camera work for you.
06-13-2008, 06:17 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by mr.voigtlander Quote
using manual flash...

if you know the guide number (GN) to a flash gun or in camera the formula is as follows:

GN = aperture x distance; OR GN divided by aperture = distance; OR GN divided by distance = aperture.

Normally you know two of the three things so you should be able to work it out.

So if you know the guide number to be 32 and your subject is 4 metres away, set aperture to f8

or if GN is 32 and you set aperture to f11 your subject should be 3 metres away GN32= 11x3


So what I do is work out what aperture I want and then the flash to subject distance I need to be for the flash to be right.

The thing to remember is aperture controls flash exposure; shutter controls ambient light exposure. Use a slow shutter speed for the sunset, aperture + flash for the foreground etc etc!

It's worth mucking around with it with a roll of film and testing yourself. It's actually not too hard once you start.

Be careful using old flash guns though or you might fry the electrics of your DSLR.

For those using manual flash with their DSLRs it would be worth using rear curtain sync and a slow shutter speed for some creative results. But for the flash exposure use the above formula to work out your aperture and subject distance for correct exposure.

You don't need TTL etc if you understand what you're doing and make the camera work for you.
Forgot one thing... all those calculations assume ISO 100 (right?)
06-13-2008, 07:58 AM   #12
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Best Forum For Pentax ANYWHERE

Thanks so much for all the information. Help like this is EXACTLY why this forum appealed to me.
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