[sharpshoota]

One question is the focal length for the zoom on the flash. I'm mostly using the FA limited primes so I'm not sure what to plug in here. Also, I seem to be having to add at least a half or a full stop of exposure compensation to expose properly. Is that normal or am I doing something wrong. I do have the new fimrware update 1.10

Also, anyone know how to use this flash for daylight fill flash? Thanks.

[jfdavis58]

I really afraid to say anything. If I'm succinct to encourage the OP to just google it, then the next person is verbose giving massive detail referencing tech support and what not. If I write in some length, then someone will say I'm wrong. And no apology is forthcoming if later I'm proven correct. Most often, of late, it's simply a case of nobody responds.

But your question has been floating about in virtual space for 3 hours, so somebody should say something.

So here goes: set the zoom to match the lens focal length. And like the under-exposure thing---which many claim as normal, but I don't have a similar problem---you will need to experiment.

That a pretty simple technique of finding a willing subject and shooting lots of frames until discovery becomes understanding. Hints: If the flash coverage is too narrow you get dark corners. If it's dull all over or requires much too open an aperture it may be too wide a flash zoom setting-or low batteries/not fully recycled flash.

Pre-internet we all had to experiment-very costly with film. It's surprising how well a little trial and error fixes the knowledge inside the mind.

RE: fill flash. A damnable myth filled with many WAGs. Jump over to Strobist and learn some proper technique.


(WAGs: plural (=s) of Wild, asinine guess)

One question is the focal length for the zoom on the flash. I'm mostly using the FA limited primes so I'm not sure what to plug in here. Also, I seem to be having to add at least a half or a full stop of exposure compensation to expose properly. Is that normal or am I doing something wrong. I do have the new fimrware update 1.10

Also, anyone know how to use this flash for daylight fill flash? Thanks.

Pages 32 & 34 in the manual for the 540 explain the use of High Speed sync. Which is used for "Outdoor fill flash"

As far as the exposure compensation, that's something you will just have to experiment with.

I've been playing with mine for several days now, using it in all modes. I haven't taken any worthwhile photographs just yet, but am sure learning a lot about how to use both the 540 and 360.

(WAGs: plural (=s) of Wild, asinine guess)

Good one John. I've been a proponent of "SWAG" method for years.

"SWAG" = "Scientific Wild (the remainder is subjective)"

Cheers

Ed

[jfdavis58]

Thanks Ed,

At least I'm not on your 'ignore list' (or you took the time to override). I'm not too sure about censor-bots on the forums-didn't want any unnecessary trouble by making a personal reference with my acronym. SWAG is good! Has an official ring to it!

It's also gratifying to see a fellow 'experimenter'; sometimes we seem to be on the verge of extinction.

Thanks Ed,

At least I'm not on your 'ignore list' (or you took the time to override). I'm not too sure about censor-bots on the forums-didn't want any unnecessary trouble by making a personal reference with my acronym. SWAG is good! Has an official ring to it!

It's also gratifying to see a fellow 'experimenter'; sometimes we seem to be on the verge of extinction.

John, you've never been on my ignore list. In fact, I've responded to you on a couple of occassions that you've posted answers to my question.

Yep, "SWAG" was what we used then figuring geographic coordinates when applying for tower permits when I was in the two-way radio business years ago. I found that it's almost a foolproof method when dealing with most things which you don't "quite" understand.

One reference you made was to the expense of experimenting with film. Yep, I did that too back in the 70s and it was the root cause of my using positive imaging as the cost of negative developement (I never tried my hand in the dark room) became a bit more than I could afford. I still get amazed about people complaing about the cost of batteries for digital cameras when I look back at the cost of film processing and think "Batteries & Digital imaging? What a bargain!" I still like to play with bracketing in manual mode and with the sophisticated flash systems of today, experimenting is more important than ever.




Ed

[jfdavis58]

If you ever want to do that positive stuff again, I can share my tabletop lab equipment list and set-up--got pictures! Cuts the cost in half and is wonderful fun; as you indicate that a darkroom wasn't in your past, you might find this very interesting.

The dark part is done in a bag in full light! Everything except a place to dry fits into one of those 10 gallon plactic totes you can find at any big-box retail outlet.

About $100.00 give or take depending on your scrounging skills.

Opening the film can at process end and removing the strip of bright positive images is a real thrill-done for a group, it's a mouth dropping show-stopper!

---

Last edited by jfdavis58; 02-06-2007 at 10:00 AM. Reason: spelling

[sharpshoota]

Anymore responses that answer the actual thread title?

Anymore responses that answer the actual thread title?

If you're using the flash in "green" mode, the camera and the flash will do the work for you. In manual mode, simply put the flash in manual zoom and match it to the setting nearest, or just under, the focal length of your lens. The 540 has both the 35mm and digital focal lengths factored in. If you're using the 35mm setting, just do the crop conversion.

I haven't yet tried using the flash in "Tv" mode to see if the aperature will correspond correctly.


As far as the exposure question......... I can't answer cuz I don't know.

Hope this answers your query?

Ed

[jfdavis58]

Just the first one: "set the zoom to match the lens focal length. And like the under-exposure thing---which many claim as normal, but I don't have a similar problem---you will need to experiment.

That a pretty simple technique of finding a willing subject and shooting lots of frames until discovery becomes understanding. Hints: If the flash coverage is too narrow you get dark corners. If it's dull all over or requires much too open an aperture it may be too wide a flash zoom setting-or low batteries/not fully recycled flash.

Pre-internet we all had to experiment-very costly with film. It's surprising how well a little trial and error fixes the knowledge inside the mind.

RE: fill flash. A damnable myth filled with many WAGs. Jump over to Strobist and learn some proper technique."

Probably missed that, huh? There really aren't any other answers, sorry.

[sharpshoota]

No problem guys..thanks. So, your saying if the flash is in digital mode and I put my FA 50mm and have it set for 48mm on the flash it would be correct? Also, I never shoot in green mode. I shoot a lot in aperture priority or shutter. Will it work in those modes well?

[Rolly]

I really afraid to say anything.

Please don't be. Ever. I, for one, appreciate your direct approach and I suspect that there are many other "grumpy old men" like me who share the pleasure of reading posts submitted by folks who have applied some thought and effort to what they have to say.

Thank you.

[jfdavis58]

Give or take, yes; hence the actual testing. I'm really not trying to be flippant and a smart-aleck, testing is the only way you will ever know exactly how your equipment performs.

Between Beth (my daughter, also on this forum) and I and other family members we have 8 digital still cameras and three digital video cameras. Each mostly does what it's respective manual says it will do; but then the fun begins. Of the five dSLRs three are K10D and they are as different as twins or triplets. I've had 3 360 flashes, each different in tiny little ways. Each tested and those tests noted.

This was all regular stuff with film cameras, back in the day. No one really thought anything about the testing--unless they failed to do it. Film inserts actually had a written warning advising 'actual condition' pre-testing before a critical need.

I've been playing with my K10D since the first day of its release. But if something critical comes up, I reach for the *ist-D first and last just in case... And I read the manual about 6 times before the cameras arrived!

[jfdavis58]

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words!

If you ever want to do that positive stuff again, I can share my tabletop lab equipment list and set-up--got pictures! Cuts the cost in half and is wonderful fun; as you indicate that a darkroom wasn't in your past, you might find this very interesting.

The dark part is done in a bag in full light! Everything except a place to dry fits into one of those 10 gallon plactic totes you can find at any big-box retail outlet.

About $100.00 give or take depending on your scrounging skills.

Opening the film can at process end and removing the strip of bright positive images is a real thrill-done for a group, it's a mouth dropping show-stopper!

Oops!!! Almost missed this.

John, I haven't owned a film camera since 1982 and had no camera from 82 - 03. Not sure if I would want to embark on film positive processing.