[slip]

anyone ever get situations where your DSLR can't handle a lighting situation?
My K5iis can't handle this stage lighting as well as my old K10D could
On this shot (example) I tried everything... different metering...even spot metering...-1 stop... and nothing could give me a good shot in this lighting situation.
Anyone have the same problem?
Usually spot metering would do it but not in this lighting

any thoughts?

thanks

randy

Attached Images

 

[photolady95]

What are your other settings besides spot metering? I'm sure others will want to know this too.

[slip]

I had it in P mode which has never let me down in these situations yet? Tried matrix, center weighted, spot metering. This is from a side angle of the stage. When the shots where taken near the front of the stage closer in it seemed to handled it better. Usually spot metering is all that is required

Thanks

Randy

[photolady95]

In P mode, what was your f stop and ISO set as?

Anytime you ask for help and include a photo it's a good idea to include the EXIF data.

[slip]

In P mode, what was your f stop and ISO set as?

Anytime you ask for help and include a photo it's a good idea to include the EXIF data.

1/50 ISO 5000 F2.8

thanks

randy

[johnyates]

even spot metering

Evidently the wrong 'spot' got metered. Next time try this:
Set camera to 'M' mode and spot metering.
Center the 'spot' on your subject.
Do a digital preview to evaluate exposure. Adjust exposure if necessary.
Make your shots.

[wibbly]

Isn't there a menu option to link af point and spot for metering? It looks like you're focused on the curtains, which also happen to be correctly exposed.

[grog85361]

I agree with johnyates. The black curtains in the background are gray, looks like the camera probably metered on the background. Bummer.

[paulh]

Agree with the previous three posts. Focus and metering should be on their faces (not the curtains).

[starbase218]

Evidently the wrong 'spot' got metered. Next time try this:
Set camera to 'M' mode and spot metering.
Center the 'spot' on your subject.
Do a digital preview to evaluate exposure. Adjust exposure if necessary.
Make your shots.

Yup, that's more or less how I use spot metering too (if I do). Spot metering and P mode is too unpredictable for me.

[VisualDarkness]

Yup, the backround is metered just below the standard gray, meaning it metered perfectly but the scene is tricky. It looks like the center point was just on the side of his face so you missed and metered the backdrop.

Just go all manual in these cases.

[aleonx3]

It does not matter which DSLR camera you have, the result will be almost the same. The best way to do this is to use M mode and chimp until you get a good exposure since the lighting on the stage does not change. I would start using a TAv mode first to get the ISO range, using exposure compensation as well, afterwards use M mode to shoot.

[Rupert]

Agree with all of the above. It is always fascinating to me how I can shoot several shots in rapid succession of the same subject and sometimes get different exposure.......light can change in an instant and so can the metering point. I notice this most often in shooting wildlife where light can change almost instantly and from shot to shot so can my metering point.

I shoot mostly Tav and can notice changes quickly if the ISO suddenly jumps up or down. It helps me a lot, as long as I am paying attention.

Coming from the K10D,K20D, and K5 .....I think my K5IIs has the best metering and WB of any Pentax I have owned, and the best resolution by far. But....it is not always perfect, but it does beat me in that regard.... by miles!

Best Regards!

anyone ever get situations where your DSLR can't handle a lighting situation?
My K5iis can't handle this stage lighting as well as my old K10D could. On this shot (example) I tried everything... different metering...even spot metering...-1 stop... and nothing could give me a good shot in this lighting situation. Anyone have the same problem? Usually spot metering would do it but not in this lighting. any thoughts?
thanks, randy

Classic example of why you should use Manual exposure. The meter exposed for the curtains so the bright portions were overexposed.

Instant review and the histogram are the modern day Polaroid test exposure and are fast and easy to use. Unless your graduate was the first, make a guesstimate exposure, take a shot and adjust.

You're shutter speed should be faster, 1/50, even with SR is unnecessarily slow. ISO is unnecessarily high at 5000. You've a fast lens at 2.8. The grin & grin is all in one plane and fairly static so focusing isn't a problem and you don't need a lot of DoF, f2.8 is okay. So start with a guesstimate of 1/125 and ISO 1600 and see what happens. Then simply increase ISO as needed.

I shoot in theaters a lot and manual exposure is the only way. Most stages are EV 7 or 8 (assuming ISO 100). To stop motion of dancers, I start at 2.8, 1/320 and 1600. You didn't need to stop a dancer in mid air so 2.8, 1/160 or 1/125 and 1600 would have probably been okay.

I have a pair of K5IIS bodies in my bag and K5 as a spare and I've no idea if the meters work, I don't use them. It just isn't that hard to learn manual exposure and I guarantee you'll like your work better. Here's a good, free explanation The Ultimate Exposure Computer

Everything on my web sites was done with manual exposure. I still occasionally use a handheld incident meter and a flash meter for studio setups but mostly can make a pretty good guess and simply adjust. Manual exposure gives you full control, auto modes, not so much.

P.S. - Found an example from 2010. Manual exposure, K20 & 50-135: f2.8. 1/160 and ISO 1600. Didn't get my K5-s until 2011.

[matt_lin18]

For tough stage lighting, I would use spot metering on their faces to get the correct exposure.