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10-01-2015, 08:22 AM - 1 Like   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by KierraElizabeth Quote
Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, and much to my heartbreak as a literature teacher, the main reading room is closed for renovation--not estimated to reopen until at least 2017.
As an alternative to the main reading room of the NYPL, go to the Morgan Library and Museum - and stop by the Library Hotel for a drink.

10-01-2015, 08:28 AM - 1 Like   #32
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I think a new camera body is the right choice for reasons articulated earlier. I also think you can take the K10D and if something is making you nuts about the new camera body you can always swap. The K50 if that's your choice has good scene modes just in case you get confused by the new controls (SCN mode on the dial). The K3 has a green mode this is pretty bullet proof for most things and you can always shoot in Tv or Av and use exposure compensation to push the camera to do what you think needs doing.

Lastly if you get the pdf of one of these guides: Pentax eBook Samples - Columns | PentaxForums.com you will be up to speed in no time.
10-01-2015, 09:40 AM   #33
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I wonder if someone used to a K10d would find scene modes helpful? They are mostly concerned with a program approach to aperture, ISO and shutter values dependent on the lighting and focal length. I was not thinking the OP would be concerned with those aspects of camera control ... It was more my concern about the deeper, less obvious things that so often get thrown up here on the forum. The K50 is considerably more sophisticated in many ways, and there could be some annoying little things that can't be quickly solved when out on a shoot.

I do agree on the 2 camera/backup approach .... But that seems unlikely to be an option given the travel scenario .... ?
10-01-2015, 09:48 AM   #34
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I just want to add: thank you so much, everyone that has weighed in so far! I am always so grateful for the thoughtful, encouraging, and honest opinions that are par for the course at Pentax Forums, even after I've taken a long hiatus. SO much different than other photography forums I have visited, which is why I always come back here!

10-01-2015, 10:25 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by mcgregni Quote
I wonder if someone used to a K10d would find scene modes helpful? They are mostly concerned with a program approach to aperture, ISO and shutter values dependent on the lighting and focal length. I was not thinking the OP would be concerned with those aspects of camera control ... It was more my concern about the deeper, less obvious things that so often get thrown up here on the forum. The K50 is considerably more sophisticated in many ways, and there could be some annoying little things that can't be quickly solved when out on a shoot.

I do agree on the 2 camera/backup approach .... But that seems unlikely to be an option given the travel scenario .... ?
You are correct - I'm not advising that the SCN modes are likely to be needed - just that they are there as a way to fall back on something if you can't find a setting. "Where do I set ISO and Continuous mode? Choose Action scene mode. "What do I set ISO and slow speed sync flash? " Choose night shot mode (the flash one)." etc. None of this is that hard but in the heat of the moment - you might need to just take a breath and switch it and take the shot.
10-01-2015, 10:45 AM   #36
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Those are good examples of where the scene modes make creative combinations of camera settings, and do simplify and quicken the process , so yes, I see where they could be a practical benefit. Now, just have to find where they are on the K7 .....
10-01-2015, 10:54 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by mcgregni Quote
Those are good examples of where the scene modes make creative combinations of camera settings, and do simplify and quicken the process , so yes, I see where they could be a practical benefit. Now, just have to find where they are on the K7 .....
Thanks, I had to think about it for a sec to try to articulate what I meant. This isn't idle speculation, I actually shot this way when I first got my K50 while trying to learn where specific things were controlled. I realized fairly quickly how to adjust these things and found a way to make the camera do what I needed but kept this in my back pocket JUST IN CASE there was something I couldn't remember. The truth is that these aren't perfect modes but they help when you have a functional need and no time to figure out where the setting is buried.
10-01-2015, 11:00 AM   #38
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Transitioning between the various Pentax bodies is not too hard - the menus and controls are pretty close, although the back buttons and 4-way controller are laid out a little differently between the K10D and K-50 (or K-5, for that matter). The lack of a top LCD trips some people up - I got over it in a day. If the trip is in November, will you have time to do some walkaround shoots and work out the wrinkles? I think shooting in bright sun and low light are where you are going to see the biggest differences.

For me, it generally takes longer to "grok" a new lens than a new body. A new sensor will have different strengths and weaknesses, but it's not the same as finding the "sweet spots" on a lens or how hard I can push it at the wide or long ends.

10-01-2015, 11:23 AM - 1 Like   #39
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Just my two cents. NY can be dark , yep. Plus, if shooting in museums or at night on Times Square without flash, CCD sensor will not be the best. I can compare between K200D and K5iis only, but it will be similar, I guess, between K10D and K50.
10-01-2015, 05:42 PM   #40
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Here is Times Square at night (around midnight I guess), K5iis, ISO 2000,as is without PP.
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10-03-2015, 09:04 AM - 1 Like   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by KierraElizabeth Quote
Or if I am ALL wrong, tell me what you'd do instead with a $300 budget
Take said $300 and blow it total frivolously in one of those marvellous Pentax outlets they have in NYC, enjoy.
10-03-2015, 09:42 AM - 1 Like   #42
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Late for your answer, but I have a K10 and you would be very pleased what it can do for u. The most important thing is the lens, The 18-250 is a better choice, in case you want to get those long shots of some statue on a building, which you may see a lot of in NYC (I was born there), or maybe you want a long shot of someone who dosn't want to know ur taking a pic. I have other bodies than a K10, but it has proven very dependable, save $ for a K3 instead.
10-03-2015, 11:19 AM - 1 Like   #43
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I have a k100d. I have a k50. I have a k3. I have both inexpensive and expensive glass. I would rather take the k50 and 18-55 than the k100d and the 18-135. If I was the one making this trip I would upgrade the body. But I am not familiar with the k10d nor that lens.

My logic is that you can crop fairly well with the larger sensor. And the low ISO performance will be dramatically better.
10-03-2015, 12:46 PM - 1 Like   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
I have a k100d. I have a k50. I have a k3. I have both inexpensive and expensive glass. I would rather take the k50 and 18-55 than the k100d and the 18-135. If I was the one making this trip I would upgrade the body. But I am not familiar with the k10d nor that lens.

My logic is that you can crop fairly well with the larger sensor. And the low ISO performance will be dramatically better.
My experience has been that the 10MP CCD sensor is a little bit more than just a higher-res version of the 6MP CCD (K100D) - but for handheld, walkaround shooting in anything other than bright sunlight, I'd rather have the 12MP CMOS sensor (K-x,K-r). And the "sweet 16" (K-5, K-01, K-30, K-50) is still the one to beat for low-light.

Last edited by THoog; 10-03-2015 at 05:57 PM.
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