Different exposure between RAW and JPEG in RAW + JPEG - possible?

**BigMackCam** · 11-16-2015, 04:46 PM

Apologies if this is a dumb question

Is it possible, with the K3 / K3II to capture in RAW + JPEG such that the resulting JPEG is exposed at a different level to the RAW?

I'm guessing the answer is no...

The reason for my question is this... I shoot entirely in RAW, and I tend to have my EV set to minus one or two thirds of a stop (depending on the scene and weather conditions), to ensure there are no blown-out highlights. However, it would be nice - at times - to have a ready-to-roll JPEG image straight from camera that is immediately useable.

I suspect my habit of slightly under-exposing is a flaw in my photographic methods, but I've been caught out previously on several occasions where I've ended up with blown-out highlights, hence this conservative approach. Given my current level of experience and knowledge, I've been working on the basis that I'd rather have to recover detail from the shadows than lose detail in highlights - and this has worked very well so far.

Thoughts / advice / comments would be greatly appreciated

**clackers** · 11-16-2015, 04:51 PM - **1 Like**

No, BMC. Just shoot with bracketing if you like.

**BigMackCam** · 11-16-2015, 05:17 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by clackers

No, BMC. Just shoot with bracketing if you like.

That's what I thought

Good tip - thanks

CarlJF · 11-16-2015, 05:39 PM

Originally posted by BigMackCam

Is it possible, with the K3 / K3II to capture in RAW + JPEG such that the resulting JPEG is exposed at a different level to the RAW?

Have you try to customize the exposure for the jpeg engine (aka ISO setting) ? If you're always underexposing, you could just set the "jpg ISO" to a higher setting. Or you could just make a batch conversion for the files that were underexposed. That way, you would get your Raw underexposed and your jpg overexposed relative to the raw, the trick being to find how to balance both...

**clackers** · 11-16-2015, 06:35 PM

Originally posted by CarlJF

Have you try to customize the exposure for the jpeg engine (aka ISO setting) ? If you're always underexposing, you could just set the "jpg ISO" to a higher setting. Or you could just make a batch conversion for the files that were underexposed. That way, you would get your Raw underexposed and your jpg overexposed relative to the raw, the trick being to find how to balance both...

Carl, the ISO setting is for the RAW capture as well, no?

Just checking we're on the same page.

CarlJF · 11-16-2015, 07:15 PM

Originally posted by clackers

Carl, the ISO setting is for the RAW capture as well, no?

Just checking we're on the same page.

Sorry, I think I've mix things up! If you do in-body raw processing, you will have a slider which is named "ISO", which is a brightness slider for the jpg. I have no idea why they chose to call it "ISO" since, obviously, you can't change the ISO after the shot. This is this "ISO slider" I'm refering to and not the "hardware ISO" that is set when taking the shot.There's a similar slider, but under the name "high/low key", in the jpg control panel. It really just seems to change the jpg brightness level. So, I guess one can just underexpose the RAW and compensante by setting these sliders to get a brighter jpg.

**clackers** · 11-16-2015, 07:46 PM

Originally posted by CarlJF

Sorry, I think I've mix things up! If you do in-body raw processing, you will have a slider which is named "ISO", which is a brightness slider for the jpg. I have no idea why they chose to call it "ISO" since, obviously, you can't change the ISO after the shot. This is this "ISO slider" I'm refering to and not the "hardware ISO" that is set when taking the shot.There's a similar slider, but under the name "high/low key", in the jpg control panel. It really just seems to change the jpg brightness level. So, I guess one can just underexpose the RAW and compensante by setting these sliders to get a brighter jpg.

Oh, okay, I think Cam was looking to avoid postprocessing the JPEG's brightness either in camera or on computer.

CarlJF · 11-16-2015, 07:51 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by clackers

Oh, okay, I think Cam was looking to avoid postprocessing the JPEG's brightness either in camera or on computer.

This is also my understanding. If he changes the slider in the "jpeg profile menu" from what is the default position, all the jpeg after will have this setting applied without any additional post-processing.

**clackers** · 11-16-2015, 08:08 PM

Originally posted by CarlJF

This is also my understanding. If he changes the slider in the "jpeg profile menu" from what is the default position, all the jpeg after will have this setting applied without any additional post-processing.

Oh, okay, Cam, you have your answer!

Thanks for the tip, Carl, I may need it some day.

**Lowell Goudge** · 11-17-2015, 05:09 AM

For the OP it's time to learn how to set in camera pegs properly.

On th eL3 one of the things he should do is learn about highlight and shadow detail preservation functions. They essentially do what he is already doing in RAW

For the OP. Look at your PP process and adjust the JPEG settings to achieve the same. Take some time to learn how to get jpegs right out of the camera. It may also teach you something about what you presently are doing wrong and relying on PP to save it

**BigMackCam** · 11-17-2015, 05:50 AM

@Carl - thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for

I'll try it out later today.

@Lowell - I'm happy with the settings I've got for my JPEGs. It took quite a while to get the contrast, saturation, colour balance and sharpening just right. Actually, I still find myself less than knowledgeable about the differences between sharp, fine sharp etc. but I'm basically happy with my settings. It is only exposure that I need to tweak. Thanks for the advice, though

totsmuyco · 11-17-2015, 05:58 AM

I normally shoot raw+jpeg and last week I went out on a shoot and found that my images in raw and jpeg differ. Firstly raw was a lot better. Noise and some moire could be observed on jpeg. In raw, noise was not noticeable and better control over moire. I couldn't even understand why my k-5II produces moire. Anyway, has anyone had the same experience or do I have the wrong settings?

**BigMackCam** · 11-17-2015, 07:34 AM

@Carl - well, this is the first time I've used in-camera RAW development as opposed to RAW+JPEG. Sure enough, the ISO slider is there and enables the exposure to be increased or decreased. It works well. I do wish it could be set as a default for all JPEGs, but that's a minor niggle.

Thanks again!

**Tonytee** · 10-07-2016, 11:54 PM

Today I decided to have some fun and set my D70 to shoot in Raw mode. I took six shots using the onboard flash, being stuck indoors because of inclement weather. I then uploaded the images into Photo Editor 10 which came with Windows 10. Seeing the size of the Raw files I needed to downsize them in FastStones Image Viewer. Okay, I then saved everything and then returned to Photo Editor 10 and clicked on the rotate icon which had never failed in retrieving the most recently saved image. I checked in Photo Editor 10 and was quite surprised to discover the error message that: Raw files cannot be rotated, and I would have to click on the Edit button and rotate that way. Not only did this not work, I then discovered that the Raw file is now a Jpeg file, since I had to save it more than once. I use Photo Editor 10 because it does have some effective tools except sharpening. Photo Editor 10 does have an email feature I use to send images to friends and relatives. I cannot do this with FastStones Image Viewer, although there is a feature entitled, "How to set up an email with FastStones Image Viewer" which does not work for me.

Oh well. lesson learned I guess. I was looking forward to working with Raw files as I was advised they are easier to work with in PPE. Well, thanks for reading.

Tony

**BigMackCam** · 10-08-2016, 12:37 AM

Tony - I use Lightroom for most of my RAW processing, but after a post from another member a few months ago, I downloaded a program called Polarr (which is available from the Microsoft Store) to try on my Windows 10 tablet. It is a very capable, easy-to-use processing tool that works well with RAW files. The program downloads as a free version, for which you can purchase a license key if you want to unlock certain features - but the free version does most of what I think you would ever need. I recommend trying it, as I think you'd like it

11-16-2015, 04:46 PM	#1
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670	Different exposure between RAW and JPEG in RAW + JPEG - possible? Apologies if this is a dumb question Is it possible, with the K3 / K3II to capture in RAW + JPEG such that the resulting JPEG is exposed at a different level to the RAW? I'm guessing the answer is no... The reason for my question is this... I shoot entirely in RAW, and I tend to have my EV set to minus one or two thirds of a stop (depending on the scene and weather conditions), to ensure there are no blown-out highlights. However, it would be nice - at times - to have a ready-to-roll JPEG image straight from camera that is immediately useable. I suspect my habit of slightly under-exposing is a flaw in my photographic methods, but I've been caught out previously on several occasions where I've ended up with blown-out highlights, hence this conservative approach. Given my current level of experience and knowledge, I've been working on the basis that I'd rather have to recover detail from the shadows than lose detail in highlights - and this has worked very well so far. Thoughts / advice / comments would be greatly appreciated

10-07-2016, 11:54 PM	#14
Tonytee Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2012 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 21,461	Raw vs. Jpeg Problem. Today I decided to have some fun and set my D70 to shoot in Raw mode. I took six shots using the onboard flash, being stuck indoors because of inclement weather. I then uploaded the images into Photo Editor 10 which came with Windows 10. Seeing the size of the Raw files I needed to downsize them in FastStones Image Viewer. Okay, I then saved everything and then returned to Photo Editor 10 and clicked on the rotate icon which had never failed in retrieving the most recently saved image. I checked in Photo Editor 10 and was quite surprised to discover the error message that: Raw files cannot be rotated, and I would have to click on the Edit button and rotate that way. Not only did this not work, I then discovered that the Raw file is now a Jpeg file, since I had to save it more than once. I use Photo Editor 10 because it does have some effective tools except sharpening. Photo Editor 10 does have an email feature I use to send images to friends and relatives. I cannot do this with FastStones Image Viewer, although there is a feature entitled, "How to set up an email with FastStones Image Viewer" which does not work for me. Oh well. lesson learned I guess. I was looking forward to working with Raw files as I was advised they are easier to work with in PPE. Well, thanks for reading. Tony

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11-16-2015, 04:51 PM - 1 Like	#2
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	No, BMC. Just shoot with bracketing if you like.

11-16-2015, 05:17 PM - 1 Like	#3
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670 Original Poster	Originally posted by clackers No, BMC. Just shoot with bracketing if you like. That's what I thought Good tip - thanks

11-16-2015, 05:39 PM	#4
CarlJF Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Quebec City Posts: 1,185	Originally posted by BigMackCam Is it possible, with the K3 / K3II to capture in RAW + JPEG such that the resulting JPEG is exposed at a different level to the RAW? Have you try to customize the exposure for the jpeg engine (aka ISO setting) ? If you're always underexposing, you could just set the "jpg ISO" to a higher setting. Or you could just make a batch conversion for the files that were underexposed. That way, you would get your Raw underexposed and your jpg overexposed relative to the raw, the trick being to find how to balance both...

11-16-2015, 06:35 PM	#5
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by CarlJF Have you try to customize the exposure for the jpeg engine (aka ISO setting) ? If you're always underexposing, you could just set the "jpg ISO" to a higher setting. Or you could just make a batch conversion for the files that were underexposed. That way, you would get your Raw underexposed and your jpg overexposed relative to the raw, the trick being to find how to balance both... Carl, the ISO setting is for the RAW capture as well, no? Just checking we're on the same page.

11-16-2015, 07:15 PM	#6
CarlJF Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Quebec City Posts: 1,185	Originally posted by clackers Carl, the ISO setting is for the RAW capture as well, no? Just checking we're on the same page. Sorry, I think I've mix things up! If you do in-body raw processing, you will have a slider which is named "ISO", which is a brightness slider for the jpg. I have no idea why they chose to call it "ISO" since, obviously, you can't change the ISO after the shot. This is this "ISO slider" I'm refering to and not the "hardware ISO" that is set when taking the shot.There's a similar slider, but under the name "high/low key", in the jpg control panel. It really just seems to change the jpg brightness level. So, I guess one can just underexpose the RAW and compensante by setting these sliders to get a brighter jpg.

11-16-2015, 07:46 PM	#7
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by CarlJF Sorry, I think I've mix things up! If you do in-body raw processing, you will have a slider which is named "ISO", which is a brightness slider for the jpg. I have no idea why they chose to call it "ISO" since, obviously, you can't change the ISO after the shot. This is this "ISO slider" I'm refering to and not the "hardware ISO" that is set when taking the shot.There's a similar slider, but under the name "high/low key", in the jpg control panel. It really just seems to change the jpg brightness level. So, I guess one can just underexpose the RAW and compensante by setting these sliders to get a brighter jpg. Oh, okay, I think Cam was looking to avoid postprocessing the JPEG's brightness either in camera or on computer.

11-16-2015, 07:51 PM - 1 Like	#8
CarlJF Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Quebec City Posts: 1,185	Originally posted by clackers Oh, okay, I think Cam was looking to avoid postprocessing the JPEG's brightness either in camera or on computer. This is also my understanding. If he changes the slider in the "jpeg profile menu" from what is the default position, all the jpeg after will have this setting applied without any additional post-processing.

11-16-2015, 08:08 PM	#9
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by CarlJF This is also my understanding. If he changes the slider in the "jpeg profile menu" from what is the default position, all the jpeg after will have this setting applied without any additional post-processing. Oh, okay, Cam, you have your answer! Thanks for the tip, Carl, I may need it some day.

11-17-2015, 05:09 AM	#10
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,887	For the OP it's time to learn how to set in camera pegs properly. On th eL3 one of the things he should do is learn about highlight and shadow detail preservation functions. They essentially do what he is already doing in RAW For the OP. Look at your PP process and adjust the JPEG settings to achieve the same. Take some time to learn how to get jpegs right out of the camera. It may also teach you something about what you presently are doing wrong and relying on PP to save it

11-17-2015, 05:50 AM	#11
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670 Original Poster	@Carl - thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for I'll try it out later today. @Lowell - I'm happy with the settings I've got for my JPEGs. It took quite a while to get the contrast, saturation, colour balance and sharpening just right. Actually, I still find myself less than knowledgeable about the differences between sharp, fine sharp etc. but I'm basically happy with my settings. It is only exposure that I need to tweak. Thanks for the advice, though

11-17-2015, 05:58 AM	#12
totsmuyco Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Iloilo City Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,276	I normally shoot raw+jpeg and last week I went out on a shoot and found that my images in raw and jpeg differ. Firstly raw was a lot better. Noise and some moire could be observed on jpeg. In raw, noise was not noticeable and better control over moire. I couldn't even understand why my k-5II produces moire. Anyway, has anyone had the same experience or do I have the wrong settings?

11-17-2015, 07:34 AM	#13
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670 Original Poster	@Carl - well, this is the first time I've used in-camera RAW development as opposed to RAW+JPEG. Sure enough, the ISO slider is there and enables the exposure to be increased or decreased. It works well. I do wish it could be set as a default for all JPEGs, but that's a minor niggle. Thanks again!

10-08-2016, 12:37 AM	#15
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670 Original Poster	Tony - I use Lightroom for most of my RAW processing, but after a post from another member a few months ago, I downloaded a program called Polarr (which is available from the Microsoft Store) to try on my Windows 10 tablet. It is a very capable, easy-to-use processing tool that works well with RAW files. The program downloads as a free version, for which you can purchase a license key if you want to unlock certain features - but the free version does most of what I think you would ever need. I recommend trying it, as I think you'd like it