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11-18-2015, 10:15 AM   #1
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Is there a guide or summary of how the in-camera sharpening modes work?

I'm looking for information on how the different in-camera sharpening modes (Sharp, Fine Sharp, Extra Sharp respectively) affect JPEGs. Is there a useful summary anywhere, or can anyone give me a breakdown, please? I tend to shoot RAW these days, but I'm trying to optimise my JPEGs for when I want to use an image straight out of the camera. Thanks in advance

11-18-2015, 11:50 AM - 1 Like   #2
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One reason to install the Pentax software is to shoot a test RAW, then apply the in-camera settings to it, just to see those effects on a big screen. Then you can set the camera up better.
11-18-2015, 12:06 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
One reason to install the Pentax software is to shoot a test RAW, then apply the in-camera settings to it, just to see those effects on a big screen. Then you can set the camera up better.
That's a good tip - previously, I've always just brought up JPEGs in a viewer and toggled back and forth to LR6 to see the difference between JPEG and RAW. Thanks for this I'd still be interested to know what standard Sharp, Fine Sharp and Extra Sharp actually do differently, though - rather than simply accepting that one might look better than another in certain images (so far, I prefer Fine Sharp, but it's a close run thing - sometimes Extra Sharp seems to give a better result; I just don't know why!).
11-18-2015, 12:09 PM   #4
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There's no official summary, but think of the modes as progressively smaller Radius settings, and the ticks as +- sharpening strength

11-18-2015, 12:27 PM   #5
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What camera do you have? If it doesn't have an AA filter I would set sharpening to 0 or -1, as otherwise you'd get something like this:

JPEG (K-S2 with default sharpening)


RAW:


The bottom line is that oversharpening on a camera that's already very sharp will backfire.

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11-18-2015, 12:33 PM   #6
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Like blank?
11-18-2015, 01:06 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
What camera do you have? If it doesn't have an AA filter I would set sharpening to 0 or -1...
... The bottom line is that oversharpening on a camera that's already very sharp will backfire.
Thanks Adam. I'm using the K3 & K5 currently (K3II waiting in the wings, lol) - so, your advice would hold true for the K3 (assuming no use of the AA simulation, presumably?), but as the K5 has an AA filter, I may need a positive setting for sharpening, right?

Also, since at 0 setting the camera is still presumably carrying out some degree of sharpening (unless minus settings soften the image?), which one do you recommend - the standard, fine or extra sharpening? Lastly, regarding the K5, do you have any idea what level of sharpening (and which sharpening mode) gives the best overall balance between sharpness and artefacts?

Thanks again
11-18-2015, 01:14 PM   #8
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Can't say for the others, but I've settled on Fine Sharpening +2 on my K-5 II.

11-18-2015, 01:20 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Giklab Quote
Can't say for the others, but I've settled on Fine Sharpening +2 on my K-5 II.
That's exactly where I have the K5 set right now Thank you
11-18-2015, 01:35 PM   #10
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It's going to have a lot to do with your lenses, the aperture used as well as your focusing and focal length. I don't think there can be a sharpening setting to suit all.
I keep my IC sharpen settings fully to the left.
11-18-2015, 01:35 PM   #11
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Check out the following (old) discussions and demonstrations relevant to the K5:

neocamera

DPReview thread

Comparing K5 fine and extra sharpness DPReview thread
11-18-2015, 01:41 PM   #12
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For some years ago I found two articles/posts describing the differences on the in-camera sharpening with a K-7:
Pentax K-7 Sharpness Settings | Neocamera
What do sharpening S, FS and FS2 mean (K7)?: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

This may be interesting for you.
11-18-2015, 02:00 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
It's going to have a lot to do with your lenses, the aperture used as well as your focusing and focal length. I don't think there can be a sharpening setting to suit all.
I keep my IC sharpen settings fully to the left.
Thanks Steve. And that gives you sufficient sharpening for your in-camera JPEGs, as a general rule? I get that optimal sharpening will be on a lens-by-lens - heck, even an image-by-image - basis, but I'm really looking to set a good general sharpening level that I don't change, so my JPEGs are as serviceable as possible without further processing. Most of the time I work with RAW anyway, using LR6 to carry out PP.

---------- Post added 11-18-2015 at 09:02 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Paul the Sunman Quote
Check out the following (old) discussions and demonstrations relevant to the K5:

neocamera

DPReview thread

Comparing K5 fine and extra sharpness DPReview thread
Thank you, Paul I've started reading through those links and it's interesting stuff. Hopefully I'll reach a conclusion from this and my own tests (probably the wrong one, but better than none! )...
11-28-2015, 04:47 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve.Ledger Quote
It's going to have a lot to do with your lenses, the aperture used as well as your focusing and focal length. I don't think there can be a sharpening setting to suit all.
I keep my IC sharpen settings fully to the left.
That's why I never touch the sharpening setting. I shoot raw and I let DxO choose the best sharpening setting for each lens from their measurement profile. It also take care of getting more uniform sharpening (apply a bit more on border than center) and avoid to sharpen out of focus area to not add to much artifacts.

I think that a bit what the diffraction setting does in camera.
11-28-2015, 06:42 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nicolas06 Quote
That's why I never touch the sharpening setting. I shoot raw and I let DxO choose the best sharpening setting for each lens from their measurement profile. It also take care of getting more uniform sharpening (apply a bit more on border than center) and avoid to sharpen out of focus area to not add to much artifacts.

I think that a bit what the diffraction setting does in camera.
I also shoot RAW and use LR6 for sharpening and other post processing... my reason for looking at the in-camera sharpening options was to allow me to get the most useable JPG images in-camera for those occasions where I want a JPG straight away (rare, but increasingly I find this would be useful)...
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