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02-03-2016, 08:43 AM   #1
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The more I learn the less I know...

Quite an experience the last year with my K-30.

I feel as if I have learned so much, yet I know so little.

I recently purchased a DA*300 from a user here on the forum. Gorgeous lens, amazing IQ and spectacular build quality.
What a lens!

I'm now completely rethinking the way I setup my K-30 for optimizing what comes through my glass.

I'd love to get some feedback on the following from PF wildlife photographers:
Assuming the following defaults... (assuming golden hour AM, Spring/Fall [decent light, no haze, low humidity], mid-latitude [Maryland], Camera: K-30, Lens: DA*300)

1. What's your default "ready to go" settings so when something jumps from the brush you are ready to shoot?
(realize this is dependent upon metering for the situation, but what's a good place to start?)
a. ISO
b. Shutter Speed
c. Aperture

2. What are your AF settings?
a. AF-C, AF-A, AF-S?
b. Auto 11, Auto 5, Select, Spot?
c. AF Contrast in LV?

3. What are your metering settings?
a. Spot, Multi-Segment, Center Weighted?
b. ISO noise reduction?
c. slow shutter speed noise reduction?

4. Green button setting?
a. TV shift, AV shift?

5. White Balance setting?
a. Cloudy, Auto, Bright?


I'll post my own answer here and you can tell me where I am right, wrong, or just comment how you see fit:

I typically setup my camera (when the light allows it):
-Manual mode
-ISO 400 (I'd like ISO 100 at all times, but I'd rather have the shutter a bit faster so this compromise seems fit?)
-1/500s shutter
-F5.6 - F8 when allowed
-Green button: Av shift (I could be doing that wrong... I figured I'd rather have the shutter speed set and the aperture change when requiring green button???)

Obviously these settings above are dynamic and change for each composition... However, I like to keep them there in case something pops up on me I wont need to dial in aperture, ISO or shutter speed far from the current setting.

As for the things that don't really change (maybe they should, this is the main purpose of the thread)
-AF-C mode
-Spot Metering
-AF Select
-AF Contrast in LV: Spot
-ISO NR: on
-Slow Shutter NR: on
-WB: Cloudy
- Shake Reduction: on (hand held and monopod)/ off (tripod)
- AF/AE button set to AF(I do not like the AF half shutter pull at all... I prefer to have the ability to focus, compose and shoot without refocusing)



I am happy with the photos I have taken so far... Only had the lens 12 hours thus far.
I don't know if they could be better though. This is my first DA* lens, so perhaps my positive feelings for the lens are just comparing to the other gear I have owned rather than the optimal capabilities of this lens.


I want to upgrade to a K3 this year. But I refuse to do so until I fully understand the capacity of my K-30.


Cheers!
Logan


Last edited by UserAccessDenied; 02-03-2016 at 08:55 AM.
02-03-2016, 08:53 AM   #2
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I've never shot with that lens (I wish...) but I'll share my settings for shooting on my 800mm F8.8 telescope...
Av mode (F8.8 because it is a fixed aperture) with ISO 400, I'll push it up to 800 if it is dark outside to keep a shutter speed of faster than 1/100.
Continuous shooting high
Manual Focus
Multi-Segment
SR on even on the tripod
NR are both off.
AWB
02-03-2016, 08:56 AM   #3
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Now this is what I'd do if I had the lens:
Av mode, ISO 400, aperture f/5.6 or f/4 if needed
AF-C, Auto 5 with extended area AF.
Continuous shooting high
Multi-Segment
NR off
AWB
02-03-2016, 10:31 AM   #4
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Well, not multi segmented, either spot (what I use) or center weighed (what Lowell uses). ISO, depends on conditions, ISO200 up to 800, depending on how dark or light it is. Shutter speeds, probably 1/500s to 1/1000s. Also depends on what I'm shooting. Remember, for birds, even if you can't see it, they move. Always twitching, ruffling feathers, and such things. AF.S, not continuous, you might never get that infocus, spot on with that continuous setting. WB: AWB, I've found that using the different ones is not always accurate, so I leave my camera settings on AWB. Hand held, SR on, tripod mounted SR off. Both NR off. Green button not used even for manual lenses.
Aperture, anywhere from f6.3 to f8, depending on light. Usually, f8. F8 gives sharper details in the feathers.

Any questions on my settings just ask.
If you're curious, check my flicker. I shoot more wildlife than any thing else.

02-03-2016, 11:18 AM   #5
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Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
Well, not multi segmented, either spot (what I use) or center weighed (what Lowell uses). ISO, depends on conditions, ISO200 up to 800, depending on how dark or light it is. Shutter speeds, probably 1/500s to 1/1000s. Also depends on what I'm shooting. Remember, for birds, even if you can't see it, they move. Always twitching, ruffling feathers, and such things. AF.S, not continuous, you might never get that infocus, spot on with that continuous setting. WB: AWB, I've found that using the different ones is not always accurate, so I leave my camera settings on AWB. Hand held, SR on, tripod mounted SR off. Both NR off. Green button not used even for manual lenses.
Aperture, anywhere from f6.3 to f8, depending on light. Usually, f8. F8 gives sharper details in the feathers.

Any questions on my settings just ask.
If you're curious, check my flicker. I shoot more wildlife than any thing else.
Great tips!
I'll have to try turning both NR off.
I find when I use AF-C on a subject in the brush it will focus in and out multiple times between branches and the subject itself... It's frustrating when it doesn't lock on.
I'll give AF-S another try!
02-03-2016, 12:05 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by UserAccessDenied Quote
I find when I use AF-C on a subject in the brush it will focus in and out multiple times between branches and the subject itself...
Yes, that's why I use AF.S. I got frustrated too. I should mention everything I do on the camera is set as Manual except AF switch, most times, but using manual lenses all is manual. I came from film, so choosing my own settings comes natural for me.
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