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07-19-2016, 01:53 AM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by Zafar Iqbal Quote
Doesn't seem like SR is saved as user setting?

Hi Zafar. I just tried saving SR on in USER 1, and off in USER 2 and it saved fine in both. I also have a K-3. Just check that you " saving " correctly.

07-19-2016, 05:37 AM   #62
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I set U1 up for use with my Tamron 72B; U2 I have set up for moon shots with my Tamron 55BB..... haven't figured out a need for the U3 yet....
07-19-2016, 10:45 AM   #63
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QuoteOriginally posted by pjv Quote
Hi Zafar. I just tried saving SR on in USER 1, and off in USER 2 and it saved fine in both. I also have a K-3. Just check that you " saving " correctly.
Weird, no idea what the heck I was doing - just checked again (without changing anything) and SR enables/disables across the different user settings, as it should ... must have been a brain-fart
05-16-2017, 03:42 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by C_Jones Quote
U1 1000 shutter, F8, TAV mode, +.3 EV, Spot focus and metering
Moderate bird flight (seagull)

U2 250 shutter, F10, TAV mode, +.3 EV, Spot focus and metering
Bird on branch, ducks in water

U3. 1250 shutter, F7, TAV mode, +.3 EV, Spot focus and metering
Moderate to fast bird flight (Kingfisher, Osprey fishing)

I change the settings slightly per the situation, but having them available, for example switching to U1 to catch an Eagle flying by in an instant really helps.
That's interesting. I use at least the first two for similar purposes, but with somewhat different settings (typically with the DFA 150-450 @450mm)

U1: 1/2000 F8 TAv, auto AF point selection from full grid, AF-C, high frame rate continuous shooting, SR off.
U2: 1/400, F8 TAv, centre AF point, AF-S, low frame rate continuous shooting, SR on. (Shutter speed used to be 1/1000, until I realised the keeper rate went up when I lowered it, due to the SR being less effective in the 1/800 - 1/1250 range)
U3: like U1, but with centre-point AF only. On my K3-II that is, which often struggles with getting a proper AF-C lock in some light (bright sunlight, mostly). My K-3 is much better at that for some reason, so on that one it's like U1, but with +1 EV exposure compensation.

If time allows, I adjust aperture and shutter speed with the two control wheels (with SR on/off toggle under the RAW/Fx button), but if I have to act on the spot because something unexpectedly darts by, just blindly turning the mode dial while bringing the camera to my face is often enough to get a semi-decent record shot. Of course, occasionally I forget I had already turned it, so at times I take shots in completely inappropriate modes, like X synch .

05-16-2017, 03:59 PM - 1 Like   #65
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My K-5 has 5 user pre-sets:
I use these for a sports setting (jpeg, fast shutter speed, etc), a landscape setting (max depth of field, RAW+, etc), an HDR setting a screw-mount lens pre-set for macro work (spot metering, centre point focus, shake reduction off - ofr on tripod) and a portrait setting.

The User Mode setting saves time - very useful.
05-24-2017, 10:20 AM   #66
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U1 for catch in focus. Haven't really used that as there's some dust inside my old Tokina SD 70-210.
U2 for tripod presets.
05-24-2017, 10:40 AM   #67
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BiF (tracking) , 5 stop single button bracketing, and empty.
05-24-2017, 12:02 PM - 1 Like   #68

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As I found annoying to change AF settings via the little button above the 4 ways controller, I used all 5 Users modes for directly setting AF.s, AF.c settings and burst rate, in one operation.
U1 fast shutter speed / AF.s / TAv . Long lens, wildlife, static subject, ES enabled when switching On LV.
U2 fast shutter speed / AF.c / TAv, H burst mode. Long lens, wildlife, slow moving subject.
U3 same as U2 but 9 points AF.c , H busrt mode an fast shutter speed, AF hold medium, BiF
U4 same as U3 but 25 AF points and AF hold high.
U5 same as U4 with all AF points and AF hold high.

Default camera setup: Av -> Landscape.
Switch to wildlife / long lens: turn the dial to U1,U2,U3,U4 or U5.


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