[redcat]

Hi, I've been using Pentax for a while but never set the U1 U2 U3 on my K3, what do you guys set those settings ?
Please share your settings here :-)
Thanks a lot !!!

[Sandy Hancock]

I have never used them.

[Bacolod]

I have U1 for sunset setting; U2 Xtreme shadow contrast, U3 for panning. I have these programed but I can change these settings depending on my intended trip. They come in handy most of the time. Best regards.

[calsan]

My preferred settings for:

Birds in flight
birds on a branch with spot focus
Camera on tripod with single focus point select

good thing is you can name the U settings, so you can see which is which right away.

[Zafar Iqbal]

U1 and U2 are set for outdoor and indoor exposures at the wedding ceremony. U3 is so far not being used.

[jbinpg]

Mine are: U1 - Bees - TAv,1/350th,f/8
U2 - BIF - TAv, 1/1000th, f6.3
U3 - Astro - B, ISO800, f/4.5

All used with the DA*300/4.

[Unregistered User 8]

U1 - 100mm 2.8 wr. Diffraction correction on. All other corrections off. Auto - ISO 100 - 200.
U2 - DA* 60 - 250. All lens corrections off. Auto - ISO 100 - 800.
U3 - DA* 16 - 50. Distortion, chromatic aberration and peripheral illumination on. Diffraction off. Auto - ISO 100 - 800.
With U1, U2 and U3 I use the front and rear e - dials to set TV & AV.
Although I have Auto - ISO set on all, I usually set manually.
With all other lenses I shoot in P mode to allow front and rear e-dials to be used for TV & AV and ISO selection and exposure compensation.
I have custom noise reduction set on all modes, 100 - 800 off. 1600 - 3200 on 1. 6400 - 12800 on 2. 25600 - 51200 on 3. I have not needed to use more than 1600 ISO yet as my lenses are reasonably fast.

I also have a K3.

I hope this information is of some benefit to you.

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Last edited by Unregistered User 8; 03-01-2016 at 11:58 PM. Reason: add text.

[maxfield_photo]

Useless 1
Useless 2
Useless 3
My mode dial pretty much stays on M.

I have found a great use for user modes on mirrorless cameras though. I do a lot of studio shooting (with manual flash), and when my friends bring mirrorless cameras to the studio they have a hard time because the camera is showing them a preview of the shot at, say, f/8 1/200th @ ISO 100, which are the correct exposure settings for the strobes, but the preview in their viewfinder is pitch black. The camera can't anticipate the orders of magnitude by which the exposure is about to change when the shutter button is pressed. They can't see to frame their shots or focus. So I have them set up a user mode with the exposure preview disabled, but once they leave the studio, they can switch back to their normal shooting modes. I'm so glad they didn't make the K-1 mirrorless.

[microlight]

U1 - tracking focus
U2 - spot focus
U3 - pixel shift/2 second delay

Shooting mode is set at P for these modes so I can use hyper-Av or Tv with the control wheels with SR off. (I don't use TAv or Sv)

[Jonathan Mac]

One of mine is set up to give nice Tri-X-esque B&W photos in Av mode with auto ISO from 100 to 6400. Another is for copying B&W film negatives, so it's also B&W but a negative image (negative of a negative is a positive). I can't remember what the third one is.

[BigMackCam]

I also don't use them. For non-flash photography I spend most of my time in TAv mode, controlling the shutter speed and aperture manually for creative control and letting the camera decide on ISO, and using EV compensation occasionally as necessary. I switch to M if I have more time to consider a shot, and occasionally Av if I don't care about shutter speed but want direct control of both aperture and ISO. I never use P. For flash photography, I use either Av or M depending on the situation.

[ffking]

on the K-3, I set up

U1 for macro
U2 for landscape
U3 for action

you can save quite a few parameters, and changing all the settings each time you change mode will often lead to slip-ups (like leaving shake reduction on in landscapes, which I use a tripod for). I find them very useful when changing quickly between subjects which require specialist settings - otherwise I just use Av and exposure compensation as required with an upper ISO limit set for general shooting, and keep an eye on the shutter speed.

[Unregistered User 8]

you can save quite a few parameters, and changing all the settings each time you change mode will often lead to slip-ups (like leaving shake reduction on in landscapes, which I use a tripod for). I find them very useful when changing quickly between subjects which require specialist settings

Exactly !! A time saver and settings are the same for the photographs being taken.

[splash_fr]

U1: Landscape Tripod (ISO100, Spot AE, Shutter Button doesn't Focus, M Mode, Sensor shift in LV, infinity hold Showing histogram, M.UP with IR remote, single shot, WB daylight)
U2: Action (Auto ISO, Matrix AE, Shutter halfpress Focus, FP select on 4way, TAv Mode, HighSpeed drive mode, infinity hold showing Image only, replay showing histograms)
U3: like U1 but with uniWB and blinkies on


I like them a lot!


Rgds,
Gerd.

[Johnontheroad]

Fairly new to the K3ii, but echoes a lot of my prior m43 gear. All for use outdoors as shown. I do a lot of travel photography and these are my general walk around settings.

U1: 27 point AF, landscape, ISO 100-800, natural, RAW + JPEG
U2: face recognition on (mostly for people shots) ISO 100-3200, RAW + JPEG
U3: Spot, fast curve, ISO 100-3200 usually used for birding, small distant objects etc. RAW only

I'm sure this will change as I learn more about the camera.

John