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04-10-2016, 01:58 PM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by Irfanintekhab Quote
Hey, I tried some sports photography with polo yesterday. Now this field I am like a novice. Never really did. But I was impressed with how afc with 9 point selection thing held the focus.

But I was really not impressed with ISO performance. With arena lights, it's so tough to get the motion to stop while having a lower shutter speed. I felt for polo to stop horses motion, about 1/500 was necessary. But had to crank up the ISO to 6400! and very grainy.

Would I need a faster lens for this. I usually do portraits travel and catalogue shoots. So my lenses don't go beyond 50mm. I had 18-135 so tried this polo game on that.

If suppose I get a faster lens like 200mm 2.8, would 2.8 give me problems in depth of field? Any tips?
Yeah, sports photographers use pro lenses, Irfanintekhab, like f2.8 zooms.





04-10-2016, 02:10 PM   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
If you are shooting some kind of subject element positioned significantly out of the center area, and you want shallow DoF for subject isolation, yes, you will need to either manual focus or focus and recompose on the tripod. A panning ballhead or pan / tilt head (or gimbal) will help. So you want AF points spread all the way out to the margins?
Geometry! Locating objects in the same plane and focusing there works well too. Example: the shoulder and eye are about in the same plane if the model is sitting straight up. If you're putting her head at the top of the frame, there won't be a focus point there. But you can focus on her shoulder and relax a 1/3 stop or so and get her eyes in focus.

Honestly, the inferior focus of the Pentax system has taught me a lot about focus that I wouldn't have had to learn otherwise. I'm really looking forward to using the lessons I learned on the K-5IIs to the K-1. I figure if I can get the results I have been with that old tech, I should get some really good stuff with new one!
04-10-2016, 02:37 PM   #63
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QuoteOriginally posted by slip Quote
Why is it so hard for Pentax to put in more auto focus points? It would be so much easier to focus on the eyes when you have more focus points. Nikon has models with over 50 and Canon over 100.
Anyone else have this same opinion?
Over the past days, you've made a number of comments, using a number of examples, about focusing. I gather that, unlike me, you're focused {if I can use that pun} on very shallow DOF. In what particular cases do you actually feel that is appropriate {your examples have included everything from race cars to wildlife to energetic children}?

Personally, I want a lot more than the eyes {or headlights} to be in focus - I want at minimum the entire subject to be in focus, and often I want much more to be in focus, because my style of photography puts more emphasis on the context of the subject. That could be a major difference in how we look at things - it could also be a major difference between your expectations and what Pentax is delivering. Their primary focus {here comes that pun again} seems to be outdoor / landscape applications, and those often require a significant DOF in order to be meaningful.
04-10-2016, 03:00 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by MadMathMind Quote
Geometry! Locating objects in the same plane and focusing there works well too. Example: the shoulder and eye are about in the same plane if the model is sitting straight up. If you're putting her head at the top of the frame, there won't be a focus point there. But you can focus on her shoulder and relax a 1/3 stop or so and get her eyes in focus.

Honestly, the inferior focus of the Pentax system has taught me a lot about focus that I wouldn't have had to learn otherwise. I'm really looking forward to using the lessons I learned on the K-5IIs to the K-1. I figure if I can get the results I have been with that old tech, I should get some really good stuff with new one!
Thanks for the answer.
How does one relax 1/3 of a stop?

Randy

04-10-2016, 03:22 PM   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by slip Quote
Thanks for the answer.
How does one relax 1/3 of a stop?

Randy
If you're shooting at f/2.8, go to f/3.2. f/3.2 -> f/3.5, etc. You gain a very slight amount of DoF to cover the fact that your not quite in the right plane.
04-10-2016, 07:13 PM   #66
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
With landscape photography, do you find yourself using AF a lot?
I was wondering the same thing. I do a LOT of landscape work and never use AF for that type of subject. If I need selective focus within the scene, I use manual focus and if super critical, live view and if super, super critical, a different camera with movements.


Steve
04-10-2016, 07:13 PM   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Rentea Quote
The regular f stop on his portraits shots is around f1.4 - f2.2
Explains why his images are basically the same, I use f/0.95 ~ f/4 aperture range for portraits, but then again I use a wider variety of lenses for my work. As a rule lenses of 85mm~105mm are Ideal for portraiture, however as you progress in the craft there is another rule that you must learn: When you break a rule, break it hard.
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