Originally posted by osv i feel sorry for people who think that they are setting accurate focus without even looking into the ovf, just basing it on some sloppy hyperfocal guesswork calculation
The whole point of using HFD is that you DON'T KNOW exactly what pop-up opportunities will arise and/or you may not have time to refine focus so you're doin' the best you can to capture a fleeting moment in time within a pre-focused window.
You wanna see truly effective use of HFD? Look through some of the combat images from any 20th century conflict shot with the likes of a 4x5 Speed Graphic or a 6x6 TLR or an RF 35mm - or even an old Spotmatic.
Auto-focusing back then meant habitual use of HFD!
If you're in the studio with oodles of lighting options and aperture is flexible, get out the micrometer and decide for yourself just how much DOF is enough. A DOF chart is based on the physics of optics but you do have to take into account its definition of 'sharp enough' - it's situational - and it's subjective.
The corollary to the "
F/8 and be there." quote (attributed to Weegee) is, "
You're a fool if you don't habitually pre-focus for the most likely scenario." (me) The HFD/DOF chart applicable to your gear is the best tool you've got to anticipate results and ensure success. (PPPPPP!)
Makes no difference how well you focus, or
miss focus, when the shutter snaps
DOF is dependent on aperture and your control of
sharpness is gonna be primarily dependent upon having sufficient shutter speed. It is what it is. It's about pragmatism, not perfection; setting HFD's simply the best tool available under some circumstances.
Do you want a chance at that once in a life-time, money shot? Make it a habit to set an appropriate HFD for the expected scenario. Oh, yeah, an' then there's pre-setting Sunny Sixteen SWAGs for exposure too. Another "sloppy" habit that makes success more likely.