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05-18-2016, 05:23 AM   #16
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cameras are disposable garbage... lenses you can keep forever! find someone you can borrow lenses from for a few days.

05-18-2016, 05:40 AM - 1 Like   #17
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I do not have a k-1. However despite what was written about several da lenses many of those are supposed to vignette on the k-1, before making that decision I would review the relevant threads and sample pictures.

If you keep the k-3, and if you want shallower depth of field at the 35mm perspective, there are only a few choices and they are expensive. The FA 31 and the 35 1.4 Sigma come to mind first. This is a full frame lens and large and expensive.
Sigma 35mm F1.4 DG HSM (Art) Lens Reviews - Sigma Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database

Other options are as stated earlier - get the da 50. Alternately the f/fa 50. The da is softer in the corners than the older lenses but has fewer problems with purple fringing etc.

Better performance than the 55-300 means something like the 60-250 which isn't full frame at the long end unless you modify it and even then the mod may have unintended consequences. The 60-250 also suffers from focus breathing which makes the 250mm reach much shorter at distances under 30' or so. To give some perspective the takumar bayonet 135 is about the same image size at short range (10').

Realistically I think a large portion of your lens portfolio would need to be validated for FF performance before considering a move to the k-1. If you could add the 24-70 then it would matter less, but you can't - so I personally would stick to the k-3, get the autofocus 50, and then maybe look at a telephoto prime like the DFA 100 or da* 200 or da* 300 (all reasonably or completely full frame) to augment the 55-300 with something faster.

The DFA 28-105 is a great inexpensive lens by all accounts, but you are mainly interested in shallower depth of field and I can't honestly say if the slower lens will provide it - even on the k-1.
05-18-2016, 05:43 AM   #18
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Considering your budget I think you can buy the Sigma 35mm 1.4 and the Pentax DA* 55mm 1.4. I think this would solve your issues.
05-18-2016, 06:05 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by surfar Quote
I don't own the 35 f2.4 but ive read its fine.
Yes it's fine, even wide open according to PENTAX K-1 Laboratory | PENTAX K-1 Special site | RICOH IMAGING

05-18-2016, 06:49 AM - 1 Like   #20
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I own the 35 2.4 and the Tamron 17-50. IMHO they are very good lenses that can capture stunning images. I shoot weddings and portraits and I use the Tammy extensively. The 35 is used mainly for portraits and close up detail shots. You should be able to get good subject isolation with the lenses you have. Try these four tips, use the largest apeture (on the 35 use 2.4) the lens allows, make sure the distance from you to the subject is shorted than the distance from the subject to the background, get as close to the subject as possible and use live view with the 50 1.7 (the camera will zoon the screen to make manual focusing easier. My suggestion is to invest in lenses. Four I would suggest are the 50 1.8 (very shallow depth of field), Tamron 90 2.8 macro or Pentax FA100 2.8 (macro lenses are very good at isolation, and the Pentax DA* 50-135 2.8 (pricey but worth every penny it is my favorite lens and really an amazing portrait lens). I hope my post will help you in some way.
05-18-2016, 06:58 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by macman24054 Quote
I own the 35 2.4 and the Tamron 17-50. IMHO they are very good lenses that can capture stunning images. I shoot weddings and portraits and I use the Tammy extensively. The 35 is used mainly for portraits and close up detail shots. You should be able to get good subject isolation with the lenses you have. Try these four tips, use the largest apeture (on the 35 use 2.4) the lens allows, make sure the distance from you to the subject is shorted than the distance from the subject to the background, get as close to the subject as possible and use live view with the 50 1.7 (the camera will zoon the screen to make manual focusing easier. My suggestion is to invest in lenses. Four I would suggest are the 50 1.8 (very shallow depth of field), Tamron 90 2.8 macro or Pentax FA100 2.8 (macro lenses are very good at isolation, and the Pentax DA* 50-135 2.8 (pricey but worth every penny it is my favorite lens and really an amazing portrait lens). I hope my post will help you in some way.
Great points. The 35 f2.4 is capable of excellent results.

It may be most helpful to have shots from the original poster to help us understand the scope of the problem.
05-18-2016, 07:34 AM - 1 Like   #22
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I am genuinely blown away by your flickr album. If you want a K1 then go and get one but there is obviously nothing wrong with the equipment you have judging by your album. You obviously have talent. well done.
05-18-2016, 07:55 AM   #23
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Hi, I think that's a general question. The same could happen to the situation in any brand. Certainly, I'm newbie in Pentax Forum and I don't know about the IQ of Pentax DSLR. But, based on my experience, if I were in your situation, I would improve my skills by buying a lens that I needed to add my creativity.
Unless you want to change all your system to fullframe. It is your decision, and I think you have the answer.

Regards,


Ali Putera

05-18-2016, 08:00 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by macman24054 Quote
I own the 35 2.4 and the Tamron 17-50. IMHO they are very good lenses that can capture stunning images. I shoot weddings and portraits and I use the Tammy extensively. The 35 is used mainly for portraits and close up detail shots. You should be able to get good subject isolation with the lenses you have. Try these four tips, use the largest apeture (on the 35 use 2.4) the lens allows, make sure the distance from you to the subject is shorted than the distance from the subject to the background, get as close to the subject as possible and use live view with the 50 1.7 (the camera will zoon the screen to make manual focusing easier. My suggestion is to invest in lenses. Four I would suggest are the 50 1.8 (very shallow depth of field), Tamron 90 2.8 macro or Pentax FA100 2.8 (macro lenses are very good at isolation, and the Pentax DA* 50-135 2.8 (pricey but worth every penny it is my favorite lens and really an amazing portrait lens). I hope my post will help you in some way.
Thanks for your anwser and tips.
I find my tamron to be pretty inacurate under poor light. In bright natural light, there is no problem. But indoor it would need serious AF fine tune.

QuoteQuote:
I am genuinely blown away by your flickr album. If you want a K1 then go and get one but there is obviously nothing wrong with the equipment you have judging by your album. You obviously have talent. well done.
Many thx.

So for now, the idea of getting the da 50, and wait a bit before getting the k-1 sounds like a pretty good plan to me. But i have some doubts about the the usefulness of the 50mm FL on crop sensor compard to the 35mm ?
05-18-2016, 08:16 AM   #25
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First of all: you've got some nice shots on your Flickr profile, your K-3 is doing you proud as did your K-5 IIs before it!
QuoteOriginally posted by Meg4mi Quote
For now I have a k-3 with thoses lenses : da 55-300mm, da 35/2.4, tamron 90mm/2.8, tamron 17-50/2.8, and pentax A 50/1.7
My lens collection is very similar, except I have the DA50mm/f1.8 instead of your A50/f1.7 and I also have some additional stuff such as the DA*50-135mm/f2.8 and the Sigma 85mm/f1.4

At the risk of repeating what others have said, if subject separation is all you are after (rather than the imperative of more Mp's, pixel shift or the other great features of the K-1) there seems to be a benefit to stick with the K-3 and get some more quality glass building up to a potential future shift to FF when prices go down a bit.

I have considered a move to FF but will stick by APS-C into the foreseeable future purely for reasons of it being more compact and a great deal less weight especially when combined with a good piece of glass stuck to the front. My K-5 IIs with grip and the Sigma 85mm up front are already a strain on my neck when carried for some time and I am very satisfied with the amount of detail, sharpness and colors of the K-5 IIs

QuoteQuote:
I would like more subject isolation with the 35mm focal length.
Besides looking at another lens such as the Sigma 30mm/f1.4 you might consider shooting 2-4 shot panos to increase subject isolation or move in a bit closer.

QuoteQuote:
I'm not so confident when using the tamron 17-50 AF (i find it a bit random).
I am thoroughly satisfied with mine but I understand from others there is quite a bit of variance between individual copies of this lens.

QuoteQuote:
I also would like to get bette resolution at same or longer reach than the 55-300mm.
That almost certainly is going to cost you a bundle and this problem is not solvable by switching to the K-1, quite the contrary even! The only likely candidate there would be the DA*60-250mm....ouch! On the K-1 I could easily see you spending literally a multiple of the cost of the camera to get a lens in that range with the required quality.

QuoteQuote:
I almost never use the A50/1.7 because i find difficult to nail the focus.
I can only side with others and warmly recommend the DA50mm/f1.8 - it's simply a lovable lens and a steal at the price! Best investment you could ever make.

QuoteQuote:
I would like wonderful Dynamic Range and low noise as possible.
I'd say that there certainly are improvements, noticeable improvements in that area with the K-1 but my personal view is that they do not warrant a 3000 investment and potential back- and neck-issues

The K-5 IIs noise is easily treated by a profiled noise reduction program such as NeatImage, especially when you profile the images individually and go easy on the sharpening. I've shot stuff at ISO10000 with the K-5 IIs that came out exceptionally after NR in post. I know the K-3 was said to have a tiny bit more noise than the K-5 IIs but it should respond very well too.

All in all, I'd say you would do well by sticking to your K-3 and tweaking your lens collection slightly.
05-18-2016, 11:50 AM   #26
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I am ready to buy a K-1 but it is out of stock ... so I decided to put the money to a good lens instead. A D-FA 24-70 is on its way to me from Adorama. This is something that I can start using now while I wait for supplies of the K-1 to catch up. As @sculptor666 said above, lenses are forever. I wouldn't say that cameras are disposable garbage but most of us wont be keeping our DSLR bodies of today for 20+ years like we did with our wonderful film bodies. One day a used K-1 will sell <$500 but that lens will stay steady or go up. Get in early while you can.
05-18-2016, 11:55 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by 6BQ5 Quote
I am ready to buy a K-1 but it is out of stock ... so I decided to put the money to a good lens instead. A D-FA 24-70 is on its way to me from Adorama. This is something that I can start using now while I wait for supplies of the K-1 to catch up. As @sculptor666 said above, lenses are forever. I wouldn't say that cameras are disposable garbage but most of us wont be keeping our DSLR bodies of today for 20+ years like we did with our wonderful film bodies. One day a used K-1 will sell <$500 but that lens will stay steady or go up. Get in early while you can.
I'm wondering how long we'll be keeping lenses; my observation is that innovation in lenses seems to be at least as rapid as in bodies, and it is quite possible that every few years will bring a lens that people "must have" and will replace a lens that was "must have" just a few years before.
05-18-2016, 12:00 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
I'm wondering how long we'll be keeping lenses; my observation is that innovation in lenses seems to be at least as rapid as in bodies, and it is quite possible that every few years will bring a lens that people "must have" and will replace a lens that was "must have" just a few years before.
I'm sure there will be a crowd who will always chase after every new lens that comes out but I think that crowd is small compared to the number of people who buy and keep lenses. That's one reason I think lenses are so expensive. Companies know that they will have multiple chances to sell multiple bodies but lenses are a one time deal. Get what you can out of the customer.

Think of the people who bought their Limiteds (for instance). I don't see too many Liimited owners hopping up and down looking for the next best thing. If Ricoh makes another prime then it better be phenomenal to make someone who owns a Limited to want it.
05-18-2016, 12:10 PM   #29
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I don't see any "must have" lens that can replace my M 50 1.7... maybe my incoming Rikenon 50 1.4?

If a lot of lenses from the 60s-80s can still produce great result, why wouldn't a current lens produce good results 20 years from now, mounted on whatever camera exists then? (perhaps organic sensors with 500MP resolution and ISO 2million with no noise?)
05-18-2016, 01:26 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by newmikey Quote
At the risk of repeating what others have said, if subject separation is all you are after (rather than the imperative of more Mp's, pixel shift or the other great features of the K-1) there seems to be a benefit to stick with the K-3 and get some more quality glass building up to a potential future shift to FF when prices go down a bit.
I can't say that i'm not interested with pixel-shift, tilting screen, astro-tracer,wifi. I'd like to play with it, it is an evidence. But i'm looking primarly at IQ.

QuoteOriginally posted by newmikey Quote
you might consider shooting 2-4 shot panos to increase subject isolation or move in a bit closer.
I've heard about it "brenizer method" but never really experimented it. MIght give it a try soon.

It seems a lot of you are thinking i should first buy ff-able lenses to prepare the path to the full frame (and maybe get the k-1 cheaper later on).

The only things i've in mind is my futur trip (november) in thailand where i'd like to be able to get the best landscape possible. And on that one, I can't stop thinking the k-1 will be the best tool for it.
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