Originally posted by MichaelErlewine Mostly I stack focus, which means I may take 100 photos, which are combined into a single image in post. I don't use automated focus rails to incrementally stack, because all objects are not the same. For example, if I am stepping through an image from front to back (or vice versa, or random), some parts of the subject take more or less photo layers to capture correctly. Focus Stacking is, like CDs or DVDs, digital sampling, meaning some information is captured, which other info is left out. When we stack a spherical objects, like a globe or any rounded object, we have to focus and step through tighter increments in order not to have a stair-step effect. Not always, but most often, I have to visually see what I am doing and re-magnify, since most cameras don't hold the magnification, etc., and my focus depends on what I am doing.
I can understand that those folks who don't stack focus have a different view on all this, taking a one-off photo, rather than a stream of photos. So, my workflow "needs" it, at least much of the time.
I understand your point exactly as there is also artistic creativity involved into. In example as the picture you just posted you wont to have the first flower in focus than blur and maybe again the edges of the second flower again sharp but also you like to play with light and vary the shutter where you like to have more bright and where to have more dark areas.
Some kind of shutter light painting...
I guess you have to stick with Nikon or Sony or sell some stuff and get Canon which has resolution for sure and you have to do more "shutter light painting" as DR might be not so good.
I am bit surprised that you can get that quality with just 100 stacked pictures. I expected at least 160-200 pictures in your stack.
The Pentax route to deal with LV I like as it is really handy for landscape pictures and also when you put ND filter will compensate for this and I can see the composition. But it does not work for you and I fully understand your problem.
Just wondering if that can be adjusted via firmware update and to have current setting but also WYSIWYG setting like Canon or Sony.
BTW I like your work. Have fun with K-1!