[johnsherwood]

I've had my K20 for about 4 weeks now. Big step up from the K100D, lots more buttons/features/ new stuff!

I've taken some really very good photos, though the consistency/predictablity factor was way down from my k100. I wrote it off to my newness with this formidable weapon ( wrong ISO/wrong metering/forgot to turn on SR/forgot to turn off SR ) and kept plugging along.

Been pulling my hair out trying to get some REALLY SHARP images, with very little consistent success. It really got so bad recently that I was heading for the camera store with bag in hand to take it back.........I couldn't do it though.

About a week ago, I flipped passed the AF Adjustment page in the manual and then did a little searching on line to dig deeper and found a printable focus adjustment card and started to adjust my lenses.

I am shocked by two things...........

(1) How much difference there could be from lens to lens ( ie. different callibration required ) and how much adjustment was required ( from -10 to +5 over several different lenses )

(2) How sharp my results where almost immediately.

Any others with same concerns?
Should that much different callibration be required from lens to lens ( sometimes from focal length to focal length within a lens)
Should I have my camera looked at within the 90days grace period?

Any help would be appreciated.

John

[Wheatfield]

I've had my K20 for about 4 weeks now. Big step up from the K100D, lots more buttons/features/ new stuff!

I've taken some really very good photos, though the consistency/predictablity factor was way down from my k100. I wrote it off to my newness with this formidable weapon ( wrong ISO/wrong metering/forgot to turn on SR/forgot to turn off SR ) and kept plugging along.

Been pulling my hair out trying to get some REALLY SHARP images, with very little consistent success. It really got so bad recently that I was heading for the camera store with bag in hand to take it back.........I couldn't do it though.

About a week ago, I flipped passed the AF Adjustment page in the manual and then did a little searching on line to dig deeper and found a printable focus adjustment card and started to adjust my lenses.

I am shocked by two things...........

(1) How much difference there could be from lens to lens ( ie. different callibration required ) and how much adjustment was required ( from -10 to +5 over several different lenses )

(2) How sharp my results where almost immediately.

Any others with same concerns?
Should that much different callibration be required from lens to lens ( sometimes from focal length to focal length within a lens)
Should I have my camera looked at within the 90days grace period?

Any help would be appreciated.

John

It just seems to be the way it is.
All of my lenses are in the minus range, I believe. I think if my camera had the same spread as yours, I'd be trying for an over the counter exchange and seeing if the new body adjusts in with less spread.

[sharpshoota]

makes you wonder about QC in Vietnam or engineering in Japan.

[Torphoto]

yes adjustment is needed but I don't think it's a QC problem

think of it like this, with 40% more resolution focusing errors show up 40% more. I have some lenses that are all the way from -7 to +4 depending and some are dead on, this leads me to bleive that

1. there is an acceptable range that their QC allows, I'm guessing once it's with in the K20D's adjustment range.

2. with variations the range differs from lens to lens and make to make.

for me, most pentax lenses need - adjustments, most 3rd party need +

Pentax is not alone with BF/FF issues, at least they gave us the option to correct for it.

[qksilver]

My problem with my k20d has been that the AF is mostly accurate in bright light. But i get consistent front focus with several lenses in low or artificial light settings. So if I have a -5 af adjustment for indoors, I need to go in and re set it to 0 on a sunny day.