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08-27-2016, 10:41 AM   #76
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QuoteOriginally posted by sewebster Quote
Hmm, maybe that's not so bad then... I had thought it reset with power cycling (still notgreat, because you could forget to put it back into AF mode after using the other options). But then I don't understand how the K1 behaviour is different with the custom function enabled. Can anyone explain this? But maybe off topic.
This text in the K1 manual does not match the text in the actual K1 menu. The text in the camera menu implies that the Type 1 setting is for function select to be the default condition of the D pad and the Type 2 setting is for focus point selection to be the default condition for the D pad. So I have things set to Type 2, and have to hit the change button to get function select. I'd be interested in knowing if there's any further refinement that should be added to this understanding, but that's pretty much how it works for me.

08-27-2016, 11:04 AM   #77
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QuoteOriginally posted by FantasticMrFox Quote
Not sure what the screenshot is telling us I guess Type1 lets you cycle through the two options.

Have you tried simply setting the directional pad to AF point selection via the "Change AF Point" button, then switch it off and on again, in both of the two modes shown in the screenshot?
Unfortunately I'm still using a k200d and don't have easy access to either a K3 or K1 for testing. On my camera, when I select AF-select in the menu system, the only thing that the D-pad buttons do is select the AF point. Which is nice. No confusion. My understanding with the K3 is that when you access certain button options (e.g. drive mode), then you might forget to put it back in AF-select. It is also my understanding that the K1 has this same behaviour by default, but by changing the function I posted about before, you can "improve" the behaviour, but I don't really understand how.

But I understand this is rather nitpicky!
08-27-2016, 11:24 AM   #78
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Getting right to the point, if Type 2 is set for C20 on the K1, the Dpad defaults to focus point select. To change a setting (drive mode, for instance), one pushes the change button, selects drive mode with the Dpad, makes the change, hits OK, and the Dpad is back in focus police point selection mode.
08-27-2016, 01:09 PM   #79
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QuoteOriginally posted by TheOneAndOnlyJH Quote
Which begs the question... How well does it work on your phone?
Not very well. Uncooperative auto-orientation is a common complaint with smart phone users. Those systems only work well when the z-axis is more or less parallel with the ground.


Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 08-27-2016 at 09:25 PM.
08-27-2016, 06:53 PM   #80
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QuoteOriginally posted by dakotapix Quote
Getting right to the point, if Type 2 is set for C20 on the K1, the Dpad defaults to focus point select. To change a setting (drive mode, for instance), one pushes the change button, selects drive mode with the Dpad, makes the change, hits OK, and the Dpad is back in focus police point selection mode.
That sounds pretty good... you will always be in AF-sel mode if you set that then. Hopefully they add this custom setting to all the bodies going forward.
08-27-2016, 07:51 PM   #81
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Focus police point? Gotta stop posting from my phone, lol.
09-03-2016, 02:51 PM - 1 Like   #82
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A joystick?

Perhaps, if they furnish a copy of Pong or Pac-man as well.
09-04-2016, 01:16 PM   #83
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QuoteOriginally posted by rlg118 Quote
A joystick?

Perhaps, if they furnish a copy of Pong or Pac-man as well.
I heard there was an "easter egg" on some Canon product that was essentially that.


Steve

(...another Pentax deficiency...)

09-05-2016, 01:16 PM   #84
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I would like to see a BlackBerry Style scroll ball with a bit more resistance when rolling the ball

Randy
09-06-2016, 11:15 PM   #85
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QuoteOriginally posted by slip Quote
I would like to see a BlackBerry Style scroll ball with a bit more resistance when rolling the ball

Randy
^^
Do you know even BlackBerry stopped that feature due to touchscreens
But yes, that would make sense on DSLR, with adaptation required to maintain weatherproofing...
09-11-2016, 04:15 AM   #86
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Years after years, I try to "improve" my usage of AF. Certainly on K5 any off center AF point was so unprecise that it was quite painfull. I was also newer to photography.

Now and maybe that's a big mistake for some, I have switched to get AF only when I push the AF button and by default that AF is AFC. So as long as I push the button, AF adjust continuously and it stop when I stop pushing it. For me this is clear behavior that improve already toward AF on the shutter button. I switched a few month ago and it took me maybe 1 hour to adjust. Call it one day for a margin.

If I am shooting shallow dof of not so fast subject like portraiture, I use off center AF point because the "recompose part" mean the rather thin dof is no longer where you want it. On portraiture, I put the AF point on the eyes. I AF on it and guess what? The focus is exactly where I asked. At least since K3 (K5 was bad for this, too big AF points). Portraiture apply but that would be any shallow dof shot.

When possible the composition is already the one I want and the dof is where I want it to be. The result are just better. So I really see use for off center AF point, including selecting them by myself.

The first problem I experience is the AF selection points are not DEDICATED. The sames buttons serve for flash (I could live with it, I almost never use that), but also exposure bracketing and burst modes (I use that often). You need to change the mode for all 4 buttons to change braketing/burst mode and then if you push any button you are not moving the AF but changing WB, JPEG settings, flash mode or braketing. This drive me nuts at time. Annoying.

The second problem is yeah, AF selection could be easier/faster.

So really, I'd like a DEDICATED AF selection system, that is more efficiant. I have issue that you could use for anything else you wish as long as it doesn't switch at the worst moment and key features I need (like braketing/burst mode) do not imply a switch that will mess up everything.

The joystick seems like the obvious solution really, but if something else is better I am all open. What I want is dedicated controls so the camera help me avoiding mistakes instead of amplifying them.
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