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09-03-2016, 12:44 PM   #1
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A Bit Of A Shift On The K1

Anyone else tried the Pentax 28mm F3.5 Shift on the K1 yet, as I've long said not wide enough on a crop, so I've dug it out the "Deviate Lady" and she's ready to go...

I've no excuses now FF is back in town, so I wondered if anyone else has had a go yet?

I might give a go tomorrow if I get time for a chance.

09-03-2016, 12:52 PM   #2
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Been shifting quite a bit here, it seems to work wonders on FF!

Rokinon Tilt-Shift 24mm F3.5 Review - Introduction | PentaxForums.com Reviews

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09-03-2016, 01:12 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
Been shifting quite a bit here, it seems to work wonders on FF!
It was that article that made my dig out my Pentax Shift, being a pre set aperture lens there would be no reason to "Green" button... it will do it in real time through the viewfinder.

I wonder how confused things will become once shifted...
09-04-2016, 07:09 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kerrowdown Quote
Anyone else tried the Pentax 28mm F3.5 Shift on the K1 yet, as I've long said not wide enough on a crop, so I've dug it out the "Deviate Lady" and she's ready to go...

I've no excuses now FF is back in town, so I wondered if anyone else has had a go yet?

I might give a go tomorrow if I get time for a chance.
I'll be curious to know what you can make of it. I've had good luck with mine on film bodies, but my one very brief effort to use it on the K-1 was not a success. For one thing, it was very hard to get the camera to meter properly. Let us know how it goes.

10-01-2016, 12:37 AM   #5
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I thought Scots were canny - not shifty.
10-01-2016, 04:12 AM   #6
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All shift lenses for cameras with mirror will produce significant distortion - retrofocus design. Putting the optical axis of the lens off center means that most lens correction function in raw converters can not correct the distortion. You may want to play with the Alpa lens corrector to work with shift lenses.
10-01-2016, 05:08 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by zapp Quote
All shift lenses for cameras with mirror will produce significant distortion - retrofocus design. Putting the optical axis of the lens off center means that most lens correction function in raw converters can not correct the distortion. You may want to play with the Alpa lens corrector to work with shift lenses.
Following that logic, all medium format SLR lenses of the same focal length should have the same problem of distortion.
10-01-2016, 05:32 AM   #8
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I've done a bit of K1 shifting (cityscape panorama from atop a skyscraper) but only had time to glance at the files. I'm happy with the overall result although the CA in the shifted corners is worse on the K1 than the K5 (as expected). A polarizing filter (the 28S has 77mm threads in it's built-in hood) does vignette on the K1 at >10mm landscape shift and >7 mm portrait shift. There's no problem with physical clearance between the lens and K1 body so one can shift in any direction.

I've not spent a lot of time carefully optimizing the aperture settings for the K1 or working with the files but the preliminary results look good.


The trick with OVF metering the 28S is that it has to be unshifted to meter properly due to limitations in the design of OVF focus screens. OVF issues also imply that composing on a heavily-shifted setting often requires the aperture to be fully open.

My workflow with the 28S is usually:
1. Unshift, open the aperture, compose the frame, close the aperture, green button meter (I may take a test shot and chimp the histogram)
2. Open the aperture, shift, recompose, close the aperture, shoot

Although it feels like a lot of steps, it goes very quickly once you've done it a few times. The two-ring design of the aperture controls makes it easy to set the desired shooting aperture with one ring and then quick-slide the working aperture between full-open and chosen-setting for the various metering and recomposition steps.

10-01-2016, 05:41 AM - 1 Like   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by photoptimist Quote
I've done a bit of K1 shifting (cityscape panorama from atop a skyscraper) but only had time to glance at the files. I'm happy with the overall result although the CA in the shifted corners is worse on the K1 than the K5 (as expected). A polarizing filter (the 28S has 77mm threads in it's built-in hood) does vignette on the K1 at >10mm landscape shift and >7 mm portrait shift. There's no problem with physical clearance between the lens and K1 body so one can shift in any direction.

I've not spent a lot of time carefully optimizing the aperture settings for the K1 or working with the files but the preliminary results look good.


The trick with OVF metering the 28S is that it has to be unshifted to meter properly due to limitations in the design of OVF focus screens. OVF issues also imply that composing on a heavily-shifted setting often requires the aperture to be fully open.

My workflow with the 28S is usually:
1. Unshift, open the aperture, compose the frame, close the aperture, green button meter (I may take a test shot and chimp the histogram)
2. Open the aperture, shift, recompose, close the aperture, shoot

Although it feels like a lot of steps, it goes very quickly once you've done it a few times. The two-ring design of the aperture controls makes it easy to set the desired shooting aperture with one ring and then quick-slide the working aperture between full-open and chosen-setting for the various metering and recomposition steps.
I've done and found much the same, although I haven't tried a polarising filter. The CA is easily fixed in CS5, but otherwise, shooting at f8 produces good results.
10-01-2016, 07:39 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by photoptimist Quote
I've done a bit of K1 shifting (cityscape panorama from atop a skyscraper) but only had time to glance at the files. I'm happy with the overall result although the CA in the shifted corners is worse on the K1 than the K5 (as expected). A polarizing filter (the 28S has 77mm threads in it's built-in hood) does vignette on the K1 at >10mm landscape shift and >7 mm portrait shift. There's no problem with physical clearance between the lens and K1 body so one can shift in any direction.

I've not spent a lot of time carefully optimizing the aperture settings for the K1 or working with the files but the preliminary results look good.


The trick with OVF metering the 28S is that it has to be unshifted to meter properly due to limitations in the design of OVF focus screens. OVF issues also imply that composing on a heavily-shifted setting often requires the aperture to be fully open.

My workflow with the 28S is usually:
1. Unshift, open the aperture, compose the frame, close the aperture, green button meter (I may take a test shot and chimp the histogram)
2. Open the aperture, shift, recompose, close the aperture, shoot

Although it feels like a lot of steps, it goes very quickly once you've done it a few times. The two-ring design of the aperture controls makes it easy to set the desired shooting aperture with one ring and then quick-slide the working aperture between full-open and chosen-setting for the various metering and recomposition steps.
Ah this is helpful!
06-09-2017, 07:16 PM - 2 Likes   #11
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Just got back home from a trip to northern Wisconsin. Took my "new to me" Pentax 28mm shift lens.

Here's the first pano I shot with it on my K1. Two horizontal shots, each shifted 9 clicks (one 9 to right, the other 9 to the left). Stitching them was seamless in "PTGui Pano".

Nothing special, and I didn't nail the focus, but once I get more experience with this lens, I hope the results improve...


06-11-2017, 05:36 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by rod_grant Quote
I thought Scots were canny - not shifty.
We have our moments of each, well this one does anyway.
06-11-2017, 05:38 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by jva59 Quote
I'll be curious to know what you can make of it
QuoteOriginally posted by jva59 Quote
Let us know how it goes.
Believe it or not, I've still not got around to doing this yet.

I'll report back when I do.
06-18-2017, 12:24 AM   #14
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A Pentax shift lens is not so different from any other shift lens/solution.
With TTL metering you want to meter before you shift.
Distortion for retrofocus lens designs is larger than for symmetric designs. Do not expect a zero distortion shft lens or other magic with SLR cameras. We have seen new lens designs lately claiming zero distortion on 11 and 15 mm lenses, but there are other trade offs.
06-18-2017, 12:56 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by zapp Quote
Do not expect a zero distortion shift lens or other magic with SLR cameras.
Really... it used to be good enough for fine grade architectural work on film SLRs, it will be interesting to see what the K1 makes of it.
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