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10-09-2016, 04:56 PM   #1
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ISO on the K50, printing from Lightroom

I am interested in feedback on a couple of questions.
I continue my learning process in photography. I have used resources in print, on DVD and on the internet regarding principles of how to approach various situations. One source who uses a professional level Nikon suggests using aperture priority the vast majority of the time. He suggests varying the iso across a very broad range to allow that approach. The other sources who use Fuji, Leica and the Ricoh have to do primarily with street photography which in my case would more likely be street festivals, music festivals and the like. Again the advice is to crank up the iso to maintain the high aperture and shutter speed of 1/250 or faster that seems to be a common approach for that setting. As you more experienced folks know, the scene selection mode settings for KIDS and SPORTS uses a very fast shutter but with big holes in the lens. What I am finding first hand is that my K 50 in my hands gives poor image quality when I do so. I have read that the noise reduction system of the camera is apparently one of the few knocks against it, I would appreciate any comments on users experience with the K 70 at the higher iso settings compared to the K 50. Any comments in general are welcome. I bought my K50 around a year ago when the prices were down in the 300 dollar range for the body only so I don't have a huge investment in the camera itself and I already have a few lenses.
The other question I have is for advice on a shortcut from Lightroom to online printers. I have had no success finding a tutorial produced by Adobe for anything besides printing on your own printer and I don't have one and don't want to buy one.
Thanks as always. Happy Holidays. Buddy

10-09-2016, 05:34 PM   #2
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Your last question is easy, export your 100% quality photos from Lightroom to a folder on your PC, upload to the printing sites from the folder.

The other questions are harder. I'm no expert but I shoot sports and street occasionally. Lighting makes a big difference on what settings I would use, whether it is indoors or outdoors and what time of day, direction of the sun, etc. I'll more often use TAv, having the ISO range from 100-6400, or 100-3200 id the subjects are farther away. I've never used a kids or sports mode, so I can't comment on that, and i'm trying to understand what " uses a very fast shutter but with big holes in the lens." means. And as far as noise reduction on the advise of most, I have it turned off because it supposedly slows the camera down.

Keep practicing your technique, myself, some days I'm better at using longer lenses than other days, that's all in the technique.
10-09-2016, 07:16 PM   #3
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Sorry that I wasn't clear. This is what I've been told; the kids and sports modes are essentially shutter priority with a fast shutter and the other settings adjusted to fit, many times giving you a large aperture which limits your depth of field. This is not the typical zone focus with a deep depth of field approach that many advocate for street photography. The bigger question is whether my K50 will produce good images across the iso range to allow options no matter what I'm taking pictures of. Are you setting your iso range and using auto iso? Have you found an upper limits of around 6400 as acceptable iso? What camera?
10-09-2016, 07:32 PM   #4
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I shoot most often in AV mode and set my ISO to a single setting and change it if my shutter falls below what I need it to be. I never go above 3200 ISO. I shoot 95% of the time at f2.8 to f1.7 so I rarely need to go any higher than that. Every print I use comes from a DNG so I can control the noise myself. In cameral noise reduction only applies to jpeg files. I never add fill light in Lightroom on any shot over 800 ISO. I have found that over 800 ISO adding fill light in post introduces lots of noise while increasing exposure introduces many times less noise. K50 and K30

10-09-2016, 07:39 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by A H Thompson Quote
Sorry that I wasn't clear. This is what I've been told; the kids and sports modes are essentially shutter priority with a fast shutter and the other settings adjusted to fit, many times giving you a large aperture which limits your depth of field. This is not the typical zone focus with a deep depth of field approach that many advocate for street photography. The bigger question is whether my K50 will produce good images across the iso range to allow options no matter what I'm taking pictures of. Are you setting your iso range and using auto iso? Have you found an upper limits of around 6400 as acceptable iso? What camera?
As ramseybuckeye mentioned, try TAv mode. That way you can set the shutter and aperture for your liking. I use this mode often for sports and let the iso adjust in auto to set the balance. On the K3 and K-1 I have been comfortable with iso 12800. I've heard the K50 is comfortable around 3200 (I remember my K20 was max'd out by then.) You might be able to push it to 6400 in the right lighting and still find it very workable.
10-10-2016, 03:36 AM   #6
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Thanks.
10-10-2016, 04:59 AM   #7
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These questions illustrate nicely the give-and-take compromises that are fundamental to exposure decisions and are the backbone of being a photographer.

By first gaining a thorough understanding of how exposure works, especially the effects and side-effects of the three variables (shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity) you can understand the factors at play and then make your own decisions rather than relying on other people's rules of thumb. These are invariably only ever one way to solve an exposure problem out of an infinite range of solutions, none of which are right or wrong, only different. By using knowledge to solve the problem yourself, you can apply the same knowledge to every problem, whereas 'if this, do this' advice only ever helps in one specific scenario.
10-10-2016, 08:56 AM - 1 Like   #8
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I have found that the K-50 IQ is excellent up to ISO 3200, good up to ISO 6400, & decent up to ISO 12800. If I'm in a rush & don't have time to fiddle with settings, I'll set my camera's auto ISO from ISO 100 to 12800 just to be on the safe side. I shoot in RAW+ to get a jpeg & RAW file at the same time. When I go out specifically to shoot, I will take my time & use the proper settings & I try to stay at ISO 100 to 400 most of the time. The highest I'll shoot is ISO 3200 when I'm taking my time.

I shoot without noise reduction. This is where the IQ gets tricky. The out of camera jpegs start looking kinda soft at ISO 800 & I consider them just about useless at ISO 3200. If you shoot with noise reduction, it's even worse. I rescue the higher ISO images from the RAW files to get more detailed & cleaner images. I only do this for pictures that I really like and/or plan on doing a large print of. I don't sit there & process everything. It takes too much time. I can get up to 30x45 prints from ISO 100 to 1600 images that I get from the RAW files & even up to a 24x36 ISO 6400 print. That gives you an idea of what this 16MP Sony sensor is capable of, but it all depends on your tolerance of luminance (grain) & chrominance (color) noise.

On thing that I have noticed is that as the ISO climbs, the correct exposure becomes more critical. If the image is underexposed, bringing up the exposure in post processing brings up more noise. If you can nail the exposure pretty close in the field, controlling noise in the image will get easier. That can make a big difference in why one image at ISO 6400 looks pretty good while a similar image at ISO 6400 looks pretty awful.

10-10-2016, 07:42 PM   #9
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Many thanks.
10-13-2016, 03:11 PM   #10
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Ultimately, the final 'correct' triage of settings you decide on is almost always a trade off between them. There is usually one identifiable 'priority' for each shot, one setting who's effect is critical ....eg a wide aperture for a nice portrait, or a long exposure time for a blurry movement effect.


It is however, often the secondary decision that is more difficult ... the decision about which other setting to adjust to obtain correct exposure given the need to keep your 'priority' fixed. For example, the wide aperture for your portrait lets in lots of light, so you need a lower ISO or. shorter exposure...


But you need to be sure that you are steady enough if handholding, especially at long focal lengths, so you may have an important decision there, a secondary priority, to set a short exposure time (eg 1/400thsec), and this might necessitate a higher ISO (even though the aperture is wide ..... There's the trade off). In fact it is often this secondary priority that is the more difficult decision to make.
10-13-2016, 04:20 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by mcgregni Quote
In fact it is often this secondary priority that is the more difficult decision to make.
And indeed may even make the shot impossible without external adjustments.
You want that wide open portrait, but it's bright out and the ISO is all the way down and the shutter still won't go fast enough...you're gonna need a cloud or some shade or an ND filter.
You want a low noise image of a dark scene with movement, but you need a large depth of field...you're gonna need some extra light from somewhere, or sacrifice one of your priorities.
10-13-2016, 05:34 PM   #12
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Good points yes .... We flash users run into the shutter 'speed' dilemma easily with wide aperture portraits outdoors in bright conditions, when 180th sec is way too bright for the background. We don't want to stop down because the greater DOF brings distracting objects behind into focus, so we need to use High Speed Sync mode to allow much shorter exposures while also putting flash light onto the subject to create a good lighting balance. It's just another example of the decisions to take and workarounds that might be needed when we are up ' against the buffers ' with our settings, so to speak.
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