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10-16-2016, 05:39 AM   #1
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Pentax K-x possible vibration issues with manual release cable and extend batt life?

I am in the process of adding a manual shutter release cable to my K-x using a similar method to this one:

diy mechanical shutter release for pentax kx (or any camera) | Sussex Photo

I plan to do some HDR work by doing exposure bracketing. I have a couple of questions:

1) For anyone who has done it this way, are you having any vibration issues showing up in your RAWs? If so, how did you solve the issue?

2) I understand that mirror lockup in this mode means using only live view, which would run down the batteries fast. Can anyone suggest batteries that either last a lot longer (and I am using lithiums now) or maybe an external pack?

I'm planning on a trip and doing an HDR panorama. This will require roughly 45 images at standard exposure, then 45 more +2, 45 for -2. Lots of images and if I use live view, the standard batteries are never going to last.

Thanks,
Jon


Last edited by photolady95; 10-17-2016 at 06:27 AM. Reason: title
10-16-2016, 08:39 PM   #2
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The 2 second delay will lockup the mirror 2 seconds before the exposure. This is normally enough time to eliminate any vibration.

Depending on how far you are from a vehicle you could always use a power inverter into the 12v DC socket on the car dash and plug a Pentax AC power adapter to connect to your camera.
10-17-2016, 04:57 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
The 2 second delay will lockup the mirror 2 seconds before the exposure. This is normally enough time to eliminate any vibration.

Depending on how far you are from a vehicle you could always use a power inverter into the 12v DC socket on the car dash and plug a Pentax AC power adapter to connect to your camera.

The 2 sec delay doesn't work when in drive bracketing mode (on the K-x), hence the reason for the manual shutter release bracket. My concern was possible vibration since there is no longer delay even though using manual shutter release.

I will be 1/2 mi from my car-- too far for AC adapter. I have an AC adapter that I use when it's convenient or possible.

Last edited by photolady95; 10-17-2016 at 06:27 AM.
10-17-2016, 06:51 AM   #4
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If you have soldering skills you could always take LM338T voltage regulator based power supply and hook it up to a couple 6v (in series) or a 12v sealed lead-acid battery. A bit heavy to lug over 1/2 mi and but still and option. If you have helper all the better. These batteries are commonly used for emergency lights and are not difficult to find.

The AC adapter outputs 8.3V at 2 amps. With a 12V input this power supply should be able to supply close to the same output

5 Amps Voltage Regulator Module Output 1 5 32V LM338T | eBay

I don't know if the Kx uses the same D connector as my K10D. It's an off-the-shelf connect just not commonly sold. If it does I can give you a part number and a couple of sources in the US.

10-17-2016, 11:48 AM   #5
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I've made a similar cable release adapters using both the flash shoe attach point on the Q7 to suspended a cannibalize shutter button from a defunct ME body over the button and by press-fitting an empty .45 caliber brass cartridge case and 'threading' the empty primer pocket of the case.

Both work and no unexpected issues with shutter speeds.
10-18-2016, 07:00 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
If you have soldering skills you could always take LM338T voltage regulator based power supply and hook it up to a couple 6v (in series) or a 12v sealed lead-acid battery. A bit heavy to lug over 1/2 mi and but still and option. If you have helper all the better. These batteries are commonly used for emergency lights and are not difficult to find.

The AC adapter outputs 8.3V at 2 amps. With a 12V input this power supply should be able to supply close to the same output

5 Amps Voltage Regulator Module Output 1 5 32V LM338T | eBay

I don't know if the Kx uses the same D connector as my K10D. It's an off-the-shelf connect just not commonly sold. If it does I can give you a part number and a couple of sources in the US.

Thanks for this info, but I think I'm just going to borrow a friends power station. It's normally used for jumping cars, but has built in 12 V and 120 VAC plugs and the unit is on wheels. I like your idea though, but wonder what size amp-hour battery would be needed? I may pursue your method in the future.

---------- Post added 10-18-16 at 07:04 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pacerr Quote
I've made a similar cable release adapters using both the flash shoe attach point on the Q7 to suspended a cannibalize shutter button from a defunct ME body over the button and by press-fitting an empty .45 caliber brass cartridge case and 'threading' the empty primer pocket of the case.

Both work and no unexpected issues with shutter speeds.
I finished my manual cable shutter release bracket yesterday and attached the cable to it. Seems like it will work ok. I don't like the fact that it looks like I'll have to keep the cable depressed the whole time the 3 bracketed exposures are taken... more chance for vibration issues especially with the telephoto lens I want to use. If there was a way to just briefly press the shutter once and the pictures would then be taken, that would be better, but of course no option I see for bracketed mode.

Will be testing out the system locally today first just to check for vibration and any other issues before going on the long trip.
10-18-2016, 08:20 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by ctron Quote
. . . but of course no option . . .
If you're concerned about physical movement of a metal remote cable see if you can find an air bulb (pneumatic) cable with a soft rubber tube. Mine's about 5-feet long. Check older view camera resources for used items.

Motion/vibration resistance is proportional to mass (weight). Hang something heavy from the camera support/tripod.

And check for sealed, 'motorcycle/lawn tractor batteries for a portable, small form factor power source. 220-340 MAH will last a looong time supplying camera gear.
10-18-2016, 08:56 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by pacerr Quote
If you're concerned about physical movement of a metal remote cable see if you can find an air bulb (pneumatic) cable with a soft rubber tube. Mine's about 5-feet long. Check older view camera resources for used items.

Motion/vibration resistance is proportional to mass (weight). Hang something heavy from the camera support/tripod.

And check for sealed, 'motorcycle/lawn tractor batteries for a portable, small form factor power source. 220-340 MAH will last a looong time supplying camera gear.
I do have a TV type tripod, quite a lot heavier than the lightweight one I've been using for years. I did use it for some long exposure astronomy this past Summer and it did a great job, so I think I'm going to use it for the HDR work.

I did read about the air bulb releases, but couldn't seem to find any with a shorter than 20' length. Can the tube be cut down to the desired size without ill effect since it's a pneumatic system?

10-18-2016, 09:13 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by ctron Quote
Can the tube be cut down . . .
Certainly, check for nylon hose fittings such as used for aquarium tanks -- most hardware sources. Cut the tube to a convenient length but set up the 'extra' so it can be used as an extension. Makes a fine remote release for blinds at a distance from animals. You can even 'plumb' it for a larger squeeze-bulb if necessary or tap it for more than one bulb using T-fittings.

Replace the entire tube and bulb using only the end fitting if you like.
10-18-2016, 09:15 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by ctron Quote
I did read about the air bulb releases, but couldn't seem to find any with a shorter than 20' length. Can the tube be cut down to the desired size without ill effect since it's a pneumatic system?
Aquarium hose fittings will probably be too large @ 3/16 In ID. The tube on my bulb unit is 1/8th In OD.

The one I have has a splice in it so I wanted to I could shorten it. They come on a spool with notches on the rim. Just unwind what you need and lock it off in the notches to keep it from unwinding.


Last edited by Not a Number; 10-18-2016 at 09:36 AM.
10-18-2016, 10:10 AM   #11
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Thanks, Not a Number. I went ahead and just ordered a 20 foot one. Even new, they aren't that expensive. I'll just have to make a new bracket, but it was simple enough to do for the cable release I have.

Ah, I think I'm going to just stick with a couple of pairs of the lithium batteries. If I am confident about the possible vibration issues, and I should be with pneumatic release along with my heavy duty tripod, I think I'll just skip live view other than for initial focus precision. Will it be as easy to just halfway depress the shutter pneumatically for focus purposes as it has been with the cable release?

BTW, I'm into amateur photography, particularly starting HDR. I've done HDR with the Pentax in the past, but always manually readjusted bracketing for each shot, so I could use the timer. Because I had to touch the camera each time, when doing 45 image panoramas (which means 135 images at +2, 0, -2), I always had alignment difficulties so hopefully doing it this way will avoid the issues.. and take far less time.

The KX was absolutely great for astronomy use, but that is now in the past for me.
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