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11-05-2016, 10:14 AM   #1
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Is there a smaller LI90-battery powered camera by Pentax?

I have a K-01 and a K5-iis, but have thought about getting a higher resolution camera like a K3 or K-70.

I am, however, stuck on the problem of carrying two sets of batteries. I guess it means I need a K3-ii.

Any suggestions?

Ron

11-05-2016, 10:43 AM   #2
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How does the K-3 II solve your problem?

Are you often in situations where you run out of battery? In my experience the K-5 & K-3 II last a pretty long time on one battery. (Thought K-3 II not as long if you have the GPS on.)
11-05-2016, 10:52 AM   #3
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For higher resolution than K-5/K-01

K-1 offers the same resolution on the sensor as my K5 (approximately). That's why I would consider either a K3 or a K-70.
K-70 uses a different battery so unless there is another body I'm not considering, I'll be aiming for a k3-ii (For future lens compatibility, too).
11-05-2016, 10:57 AM   #4
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K-7 K-01 K-5 ((II(s)) K-3(II) K-1 All share the same battery D-li90. So you can use your batteries in them. K-30,50, 500 K-s1, K-s2, k-70 also share the same battery D-Li109.

---------- Post added 05-11-16 at 19:59 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by squareeyes Quote
K-1 offers the same resolution on the sensor as my K5 (approximately).
on pixel level... but you have more pixels so a much higher resolution. In that case you better get Pentax q. Much smaller pixels.

11-05-2016, 11:20 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by D1N0 Quote
more pixels so a much higher resolution
The only work I do that pays is copying original art. For this I use a 100mm K macro on my K5-ii. I figure that a bigger format would require that I move closer to fill the sensor and get the higher equivalent resolution. Moving closer, though, increases the effects of field curve and aberration. Currently I get to use the APS-C sweetspot and a comfortable working distance.
11-05-2016, 11:27 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by squareeyes Quote
The only work I do that pays is copying original art. For this I use a 100mm K macro on my K5-ii. I figure that a bigger format would require that I move closer to fill the sensor and get the higher equivalent resolution. Moving closer, though, increases the effects of field curve and aberration. Currently I get to use the APS-C sweetspot and a comfortable working distance.
In that case, go for the K-3ii. The pixel shift might benefit your copywork.
11-05-2016, 12:55 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by squareeyes Quote
The only work I do that pays is copying original art. For this I use a 100mm K macro on my K5-ii. I figure that a bigger format would require that I move closer to fill the sensor and get the higher equivalent resolution. Moving closer, though, increases the effects of field curve and aberration. Currently I get to use the APS-C sweetspot and a comfortable working distance.
You will get much better results for that with the K-1. Especially since you can use pixel shift. Macro lenses are known for having very little field curvature.
11-05-2016, 01:07 PM   #8
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No need for all of that. Just pick up an old flat field lens such as the Vivitar Series One 90-180 and you have no field curvature to concern yourself with. It is manual focus but that should not be an issue for your work.

Of course if you just "must" get a new camera than don't let me to get in the way.

11-05-2016, 01:28 PM   #9
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The easy way to tell would be to move closer with your current Camera and simulate the distance change. You will only get a partial picture but you can test for field curvature. My guess is that the macro lens will still hold up.
11-07-2016, 07:23 AM   #10
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Thanks all!

Now just waiting for an end-of-the-line K3-ii.

My K5-iis was $496 with grip. Sold the grip for 20% of the cost.

ROn
11-07-2016, 08:30 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by squareeyes Quote
The only work I do that pays is copying original art. For this I use a 100mm K macro on my K5-ii.
QuoteOriginally posted by squareeyes Quote
Moving closer, though, increases the effects of field curve and aberration.
If your macro lens has field curvature, it is time to get a new macro lens. Ditto for aberrations. Unless the lens design is deficient, field curvature should be minimal (i.e. undetectable) at all working distances. BTW...field curvature is only one cause of reduced sharpness in the edges/corners. For art reproduction a lens should be sharp across the field, be flat field, and have very low distortion. Most true macro lenses have those as design goals and good ones deliver on that promise.


Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 11-07-2016 at 08:36 AM.
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