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02-16-2007, 12:51 AM   #31
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Here's one that turned out great.

Camera: PENTAX K100D
Timestamp: Fri Feb 16 01:12:43 2007
Shutter: 1 s
Aperture: F5.6
ISO speed: 400
Focal length: 23.0 mm
Focal length in 35mm equivalent: 34.0 mm

EXIF data read by Exiv2 0.10

The SR was still off. The F5.6 aperture is because I was fully zoomed for the last shot and did not change aperture back to fully open when I went back to a wider angle.

The odd thing is it's a 1s exposure and closed down a stop, or so. I'm beginning to think some of the softness is the lens.




02-16-2007, 01:00 AM   #32
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This shot, a follows a few out of focus shots. That reminds me, the auto focus was having a lot of trouble. I should have turned it off and just set it to infinity.

Full zoom. Wide open. SR on. Viewfinder cap on.

Camera: PENTAX K100D
Timestamp: Fri Feb 16 01:13:46 2007
Shutter: 1/3 s
Aperture: F5.6
ISO speed: 400
Focal length: 55.0 mm
Focal length in 35mm equivalent: 82.0 mm

EXIF data read by Exiv2 0.10

After carefully studying this shot at full resolution, I find it is quite sharp. There's no much in the way of noise, either.


crop




Scaled

02-16-2007, 01:07 AM   #33
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Here's what I have learned so far this evening.

SR doesn't seem to hurt for tripod based shots. No need to turn it off.

Gaining up to ISO400 seems to cause significantly less noise than identical shots taken at ISO200 and twice the exposure time.

I didn't really test the viewfinder cap changes properly but I trust the experience shared with me so I'm sure it will make a difference in some situations. I will definitely do more testing on this when I have more time.

Full wide does not seems to make for very soft shots, particularly at the wide end of the zoom. I'll have to do more testing on this.

The auto focus doesn't work when it's almost pitch black. I'm going to try switching to MF and simply setting the lens to infinity.
02-16-2007, 07:41 AM   #34
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Hey Tom - I'm looking at your shots and noticed big colour patches in your skyline. May have had something to do with the resizing of your picture.
(Guys - is that called posterization?)

Thanks for putting up your findings. I've noticed a difference in the shots too. Some buildings there are much sharper and more well defined.

02-16-2007, 07:50 AM   #35
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"Gaining up to ISO400 seems to cause significantly less noise than identical shots taken at ISO200 and twice the exposure time"

thats the one i was interested in.. i thought it might be the case but less noise at a higher iso goes against the normal theory..

ISO 400 seems a sweet spot with a k100.. i think the varitation in "blur" has to be lens movement or vibration during the period the lens is open..

how solid is your tripod.. also did u use a delayed action on the shutter.. ???

trog
02-16-2007, 08:04 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by trog100 Quote
how solid is your tripod.. also did u use a delayed action on the shutter.. ???
Those pictures were taken from a rooftop I had to crawl through an access port to get to. I just took an extremely small and flimsy tripid and the camera with me.

I'll post pictures of my kit later.

Oh... and 2 second self timer.
02-16-2007, 08:13 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom Brown Quote
I just took an extremely small and flimsy tripid and the camera with me.
Still quite a good shot for what you call "flimsy"
02-16-2007, 09:48 AM   #38
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the noise in the sky can be reduced with noise ninja or equivalent, I use Bibble pro to convert my raw files and noise ninja is built in.

I use iso 200 on my *ist D and don't have a real problem with my long exposures. you can view them at Night Shots Photo Gallery by Les Anthis at pbase.com

the reason for covering the view finder is that the stray light can effect the meter reading. when you take the shot the view finder is blacked out so it shouldn't effect your actual shot, I use hyper manual mode so it doesn't effect my shots.

and as long as you have the noise reduction turned on, the noise from long exposures is negated. The camera takes a second exposure at the same shutter speed and the shutter closed then subtracts the the resulting image from the picture to remove any hot pixels.


Les

02-16-2007, 09:53 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by Brew1brew Quote
the noise in the sky can be reduced with noise ninja or equivalent, I use Bibble pro to convert my raw files and noise ninja is built in.

I use iso 200 on my *ist D and don't have a real problem with my long exposures. you can view them at Night Shots Photo Gallery by Les Anthis at pbase.com

the reason for covering the view finder is that the stray light can effect the meter reading. when you take the shot the view finder is blacked out so it shouldn't effect your actual shot, I use hyper manual mode so it doesn't effect my shots.

and as long as you have the noise reduction turned on, the noise from long exposures is negated. The camera takes a second exposure at the same shutter speed and the shutter closed then subtracts the the resulting image from the picture to remove any hot pixels.


Les
*taking notes and thanking you for the tips* BTW I don't think I welcomed you to the forums...I'm checking the welcome threads, but just in case HELLO!
02-16-2007, 10:22 AM   #40
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the long exposure noise reduction system dosnt get rid of normal sensor grain like noise.. it gets rid of dead or hot pixels.. without the dark image subtraction technique any long exposure would be literally covered in hot pixels..

it has little to do with the ever present digital noise.. noise isnt the real problem in any of those shots.. the problem is getting anything resembling sharp detail.

trog
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