Originally posted by tduell in those cases the metering spot may have missed the bright white.
No, the spot metering was right on the money. The expected behavior is for the meter to return an exposure value appropriate to render your birds at middle gray. What was "off" was the expectation that the metered exposure would place them at white.
I know, this is a little bit tricky in that we expect the exposure system to be smarter than we are. With the multi-segment evaluative metering it usually does a very good job, particularly with the K-3 and K-1 where the sensor can do actual scene analysis. However, when using spot or center-weighted metering you are thrown back about 40 years to the "good old days" where the exposure systems were much less "smart".
Sorry to say, but in its more primitive "dumb" modes the meter thinks that everything you point it at should be rendered towards the center of the histogram. The center represents the middle between black and white in a 11-stop scale, so-called middle or 18% gray.
To illustrate, take a white towel into full sun and compose a shot as follows:
- Av exposure mode
- Center-weighted meter mode
- 0.0 EC
- Towel fully filling the frame
Make an exposure and note that the histogram is centered and that the towel is rendered rather gray. Add +3 EV exposure compensation and redo the shot. Note that the histogram is shifted significantly to the right and the that towel is now rendered white and that its texture is still evident. Add an additional 1 EV exposure compensation and note that the texture is now gone and the highlights are clipping.
In some ways this is quite inconvenient in that dim subjects are often overexposed and bright subjects are often underexposed. In other ways, it is very cool in that one can leverage this behavior to use even an in-camera meter creatively. For example:
- I mentioned a gray card in the comment above. It is useful for white balance calibration and also for metering the incident light, the light striking the subject rather than the light reflected. Meter the gray card and hit the exposure lock -or- switch to M mode and simply set exposure off the gray card directly. When you take the photo, most of the elements of the scene will magically "fall" where they should be.Whites will be white and blacks will be black even if the scene has elements that might fool even evaluative metering.
- The histogram is useful when using the gray card in that it lets you know if there is "clipping" of both highlights and shadow. Use the histogram to adjust the exposure up or down as needed.
- If you need finer control, the spot meter is your friend in that it allows you to read a small part of the scene and place the exposure of that part where you want it. The easy example is a girl in a white dress with a background of dark foliage. Set exposure compensation at +3 EV, place the center spot on the dress, and press exposure lock. Take the photo and evaluate the histogram for highlight clipping. If present, back the EC off 1 stop. If you are interesting in the face and don't care about the dress, Caucasian skin is about +1 EV compensation and darker skin 0 EV.
Don't worry if this all sounds quite exotic. There are whole books on the subject.
Steve