[Gimbal]

I’ve found that there is some shutter induced shake going on, unfortunately my test environment sort of ended before I could figure out what was going on.
It was dark and snowing and I tested to shot a few images with a fairly slow shutter speed of the snowflakes as they were passing a lamppost. I was expecting short white lines from the lit up snowflakes but all the lines had a small hook in the beginning indicating some shake.

So I switched to live view as that would remove the mirror slap, but the same hooks appeared. I also tried 2sec mirror lock up, no improvement. So I tried electronic shutter, and the hooks were gone. But ES also turns off SR so there are some question marks left there.

Then I started changing shutter speed and at the same time it stopped snowing, so test time was over.
But it does indicate some shutter vibrations or SR induced shake during certain speeds. I have however not seen it in other more “normal” pictures.

[Lowell Goudge]

Noticed today - it was very difficult to achieve very sharp images at close inspection with SR on and low-ish shutter speeds. Was shooting with my 28-105, tried shooting at 1/40 (at the lower focal lengths) and low iso for maximum dynamic range, but shots were a bit blurry. Turned up to 1/250 and saw instant improvement. I think I have pretty stable grip in general, and try to press the shutter gently. I'll post crops of the images when I get to the computer later on. Just found it weird, SR in general gives good results, but sometimes it doesn't. Anyone ran into issues like that? Or am I expecting too much and very sharp focus still requires higher shutter speeds or a tripod?

When you posted the examples below, how much of the frame exactly is being shown.

You need to remember, image sharpness (due to camera shake) is historically judged as "acceptably sharp" when a point source of light or a thin line, appears to be no more than 1/100 of an inch (0.25mm) when the full frame of the image is enlarged to 8x10 print.

To achieve that, historically requires 1/Focal Length on a film or FF digital body, or 1/(Focal length X crop factor) on a cropped sensor.

BUT this is a guide line, and every one is diffent, so the improvement is relative to what each person normally shoots, not to a hard and fast rule. Every one has more or less shake than the person next to them, and every one has variation shot to shot.

AND this rule goes out the window when enlarging beyond 8x10 inch which we ALL do in today's digital world, and 20"+ monitors

So you may be seeing all sorts of thing in your comparison. I cannot comment on the K1 and the 28-105 lens and camera combo, but there are a lot of people, who turn SR off when shooting at shutter speeds above 1/focal length. I use SR the most when I am deliberately shooting below the 1/focal length rule, and I find it works very well.

I also let the ISO go up, because I find slightly grainy shots with perhaps limited dynamic range to a blurry mess that cannot be used, but maybe that's just me.

[awscreo]

When you posted the examples below, how much of the frame exactly is being shown.

You need to remember, image sharpness (due to camera shake) is historically judged as "acceptably sharp" when a point source of light or a thin line, appears to be no more than 1/100 of an inch (0.25mm) when the full frame of the image is enlarged to 8x10 print.

To achieve that, historically requires 1/Focal Length on a film or FF digital body, or 1/(Focal length X crop factor) on a cropped sensor.

BUT this is a guide line, and every one is diffent, so the improvement is relative to what each person normally shoots, not to a hard and fast rule. Every one has more or less shake than the person next to them, and every one has variation shot to shot.

AND this rule goes out the window when enlarging beyond 8x10 inch which we ALL do in today's digital world, and 20"+ monitors

So you may be seeing all sorts of thing in your comparison. I cannot comment on the K1 and the 28-105 lens and camera combo, but there are a lot of people, who turn SR off when shooting at shutter speeds above 1/focal length. I use SR the most when I am deliberately shooting below the 1/focal length rule, and I find it works very well.

I also let the ISO go up, because I find slightly grainy shots with perhaps limited dynamic range to a blurry mess that cannot be used, but maybe that's just me.

Those are 100% crops. I've never thought of turning off the SR, I think camera does it automatically at high enough shutter speeds? Maybe the sharpest results I got were achieved with SR off, I don't know what the threshold is.
I generally have pretty steady hands (I believe), but I'm also pretty spoiled with IBIS system in olympus EM1, I have never ran into issues at slow shutter speeds with that camera (down to 1/2 seconds at 25mm). I need to see if this pattern is reproducible, and what's the optimal shutter speed to shoot at with that lens.

[TheOneAndOnlyJH]

I also let the ISO go up, because I find slightly grainy shots with perhaps limited dynamic range to a blurry mess that cannot be used, but maybe that's just me.

Nope, not just you!

I try to stay at 1/80 or faster for most casual situations, 1/100 to 1/160 or more when kids are moving somewhat fast, and 1/250 to 1/500 for fast animals or vehicles.
In really low light when people aren't moving I'll drop to f/2.8 or f/3.2 at 1/60 with SR and even to 1/40 and sometimes 1/20, but I usually have to take a couple in order to make sure I get a sharp one.

I have a K-3 usually wearing a 17-50 at f/3.2 -7.1. (Sometimes an 18-135 between f/3.5-7.1, and a couple others.)

[UncleVanya]

I’ve found that there is some shutter induced shake going on, unfortunately my test environment sort of ended before I could figure out what was going on.
It was dark and snowing and I tested to shot a few images with a fairly slow shutter speed of the snowflakes as they were passing a lamppost. I was expecting short white lines from the lit up snowflakes but all the lines had a small hook in the beginning indicating some shake.

So I switched to live view as that would remove the mirror slap, but the same hooks appeared. I also tried 2sec mirror lock up, no improvement. So I tried electronic shutter, and the hooks were gone. But ES also turns off SR so there are some question marks left there.

Then I started changing shutter speed and at the same time it stopped snowing, so test time was over.
But it does indicate some shutter vibrations or SR induced shake during certain speeds. I have however not seen it in other more “normal” pictures.

2 sec self timer also disables SR so I think you have found a mechanically induced shutter shake issue.

[awscreo]

huh, so I went out and shot a sequence - DFA 28-15, 28mm at f6.3, starting at 1/5 all the way to 1/250, with 3 exposures for each stop.

Weird things happened. from 1/5 to 1/25 image is razor sharp. from 1/30 to 1/80 it's softens up. 1/100 to 1/160 is very soft. At 1/200 image starts to become sharp again, and at 1/250 image is razor sharp again.

So what the hell lol. SR works for very slow shutter speeds, but doesn't for ones that should be sharp logically? Is shutter shock affecting images from 1/30 to 1/200??? that's just crazy! Is my unit faulty? I'm paranoid now.
Just to be sure I'll probably do a set with another lens, probably my 50 1.8 because i don't remember getting results like that with that lens in the past.

I'm thinking maybe to send it in to tune up to Pentax if this is outside of the spec..

Full res jpegs from sequence are below (still being uploaded as of now):
Update your browser to use Google Drive - Drive Help

[UncleVanya]

huh, so I went out and shot a sequence - DFA 28-15, 28mm at f6.3, starting at 1/5 all the way to 1/250, with 3 exposures for each stop.

Weird things happened. from 1/5 to 1/25 image is razor sharp. from 1/30 to 1/80 it's softens up. 1/100 to 1/160 is very soft. At 1/200 image starts to become sharp again, and at 1/250 image is razor sharp again.

So what the hell lol. SR works for very slow shutter speeds, but doesn't for ones that should be sharp logically? Is shutter shock affecting images from 1/30 to 1/200??? that's just crazy! Is my unit faulty? I'm paranoid now.
Just to be sure I'll probably do a set with another lens, probably my 50 1.8 because i don't remember getting results like that with that lens in the past.

I'm thinking maybe to send it in to tune up to Pentax if this is outside of the spec..

Full res jpegs from sequence are below (still being uploaded as of now):
Update your browser to use Google Drive - Drive Help

Can you shoot again with SR OFF? Shutter shock in some camera lens combos has been found most often in the medium shutter speeds from what I have seen.

[awscreo]

Can you shoot again with SR OFF? Shutter shock in some camera lens combos has been found most often in the medium shutter speeds from what I have seen.

I'll try again when I have a chance, with the DFA 28-105 and my 50 1.8, see if results line up. That'd be a major disappointment to me to have that much shutter shock, I frequently find myself shooting at those shutter speeds (I tried to avoid 1/125 - 1/160 because of the shutter shock reported by others).

[UncleVanya]

I'll try again when I have a chance, with the DFA 28-105 and my 50 1.8, see if results line up. That'd be a major disappointment to me to have that much shutter shock, I frequently find myself shooting at those shutter speeds (I tried to avoid 1/125 - 1/160 because of the shutter shock reported by others).

It does seem nuts. I would be shocked if it was true. There are some companies that reduced shutter shock via firmware but in those cases they were mirrorless.

[Gimbal]

2 sec self timer also disables SR so I think you have found a mechanically induced shutter shake issue.

Yes of course, I forgot about that. It has to be the shutter kicking.

[sibyrnes]

I personally dont use SR unless i cant maintain 1/(focal length) shutter speed at a reasonable ISO. With today's sensors and noise reduction software that is usually 32-6400. I find keeping a fast shutter speed yields better results than trying to minimize ISO. Of course ymmv.

You raise a good point. I am currently experimenting with the idea of substituting higher ISO(and faster shutter speeds) for SR.

[awscreo]

It does seem nuts. I would be shocked if it was true. There are some companies that reduced shutter shock via firmware but in those cases they were mirrorless.

Yeah, my EM1 received an update after about a year I bought it, some sort of electronic curtain that completely removed shutter shock and it never bothered me in the following years.

[awscreo]

I'm running into issues with my unit, trying to figure out if this is in fact shutter shock, or some other issue.. I've read that K-1 experiences shutter shock from 1/100 to about 1/200 or so, but I'm also
seeing blurred shots all the way down to 1/30 in some cases, with very low shutter speeds (1/5-1/25) and higher ones (1/250 onwards) showing the sharpest results. I've shot a sequence with 3 shots for
each shutter speed to try testing it (with DFA 28-105), if anyone is interested in seeing what I'm talking about here's the link to the post in another thread:
SR inconsistencies - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com

Would love to hear feedback from other owners of K-1, see if anyone else experiences issues with shutter shock. I'm trying to determine if this is within spec, or I need to send my unit to Pentax for tune up.

Thanks in advance!

[photoptimist]

I’ve found that there is some shutter induced shake going on, unfortunately my test environment sort of ended before I could figure out what was going on.
It was dark and snowing and I tested to shot a few images with a fairly slow shutter speed of the snowflakes as they were passing a lamppost. I was expecting short white lines from the lit up snowflakes but all the lines had a small hook in the beginning indicating some shake.

So I switched to live view as that would remove the mirror slap, but the same hooks appeared. I also tried 2sec mirror lock up, no improvement. So I tried electronic shutter, and the hooks were gone. But ES also turns off SR so there are some question marks left there.

Then I started changing shutter speed and at the same time it stopped snowing, so test time was over.
But it does indicate some shutter vibrations or SR induced shake during certain speeds. I have however not seen it in other more “normal” pictures.

Excellent test!

Can you please post a 100% crop showing the hooks? Given the shutter speed and the length of the hook relative to the length of the snow flake's streak, we can estimate the approximate duration of the shake event.

[monochrome]

Are you testing a studio scene on a tripod with controlled lighting (x lumens @ y K)?
If mounted on a tripod, is SR disabled?
Are you shooting with remote?
Are you testing MUP and not MUP?