[awscreo]

Noticed today - it was very difficult to achieve very sharp images at close inspection with SR on and low-ish shutter speeds. Was shooting with my 28-105, tried shooting at 1/40 (at the lower focal lengths) and low iso for maximum dynamic range, but shots were a bit blurry. Turned up to 1/250 and saw instant improvement. I think I have pretty stable grip in general, and try to press the shutter gently. I'll post crops of the images when I get to the computer later on. Just found it weird, SR in general gives good results, but sometimes it doesn't. Anyone ran into issues like that? Or am I expecting too much and very sharp focus still requires higher shutter speeds or a tripod?

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Last edited by awscreo; 03-25-2017 at 08:18 PM.

[UncleVanya]

Which camera body? Many brands have seen shutter shock at certain shutter speeds. The stabilization methods usually don't seem to be important just resonance or something like it.

[awscreo]

Which camera body? Many brands have seen shutter shock at certain shutter speeds. The stabilization methods usually don't seem to be important just resonance or something like it.

I shoot with k-1. I found shutter shock to affect my pics at 1/100 to about 1/200 or so. Under or over usually are sharp. I was surprised to see not tack sharp images at 1/40 at 28mm, it should be more than enough for such wide angles. If I can only get sharp results at 1/250 then maybe SR isn't as great as it's suppose to be, at least with that mirror slap. My Olympus easily shot sharp images at 1/10, but there is no mirror slap and it's only 16mp vs 36mp of k-1.. I need to do some testing, I'm sure I was doing my best to hold it still when I shot the images. One thing - the horizon compensation was on, could that be affecting SRs performance?

[UncleVanya]

Try it again at similar shutter speeds with sr off. That is odd.

[awscreo]

For comparison see below. I'm aware that it's not perfect to compare different focal lengths to each other, but I didn't shoot for that, it was just a later observation.
I accidentally deleted a similar image in the woods that was shot at 1/250, it was overexposed so when I was going through pics it got binned. Would be useful for the comparison, but I remember it being much sharper.
I need to do some testing, see how far I can push SR. Seems it won't be anywhere near EM1, which is understandable due to higher res and the mirror, just hope it actually gives me the promised 4.5 stops over non SR dslr

[biz-engineer]

I need to do some testing, see how far I can push SR.

SR stands for Shake Reduction, reduction means that the effect of camera shake has less impact on image sharpness compared to image sharpness without the shake reduction function enabled.
Whether is it optical or sensor based, shake reduction consists of damping lens/camera motion but motion is never fully eliminated. You cannot expect to have the sharpest images with SR, although is can happen. 4.5 stops effectiveness of SR is not based on taking a single image, it is the average capability to get acceptably sharp images over an statistically significant number of images for a given shake profile... depending how strongly you shake the camera, if you press the shutter when you breath and how much camera motion you create when you press the shutter button, you may get the 2 stops of SR improvement or 6 stops of SR improvement, all this depends very much on shooting conditions.

Other possible cause of unsharp image is shutter shock at lower than 1/200 shutter speeds, Ricoh (and other camera brands) added the electronic shutter function in firmware 1.4 to work around this problem.
You can enable ES if you are looking to pixel sharp images at low shutter speeds.

ES selection and SR selection could be automated , but it seems that cameras like the K1 leave to choice to the users , while those functions are automated with more compact cheaper cameras and smartphones.

[Nicolas06]

Noticed today - it was very difficult to achieve very sharp images at close inspection with SR on and low-ish shutter speeds. Was shooting with my 28-105, tried shooting at 1/40 (at the lower focal lengths) and low iso for maximum dynamic range, but shots were a bit blurry. Turned up to 1/250 and saw instant improvement. I think I have pretty stable grip in general, and try to press the shutter gently. I'll post crops of the images when I get to the computer later on. Just found it weird, SR in general gives good results, but sometimes it doesn't. Anyone ran into issues like that? Or am I expecting too much and very sharp focus still requires higher shutter speeds or a tripod?

There is a problem with K1 and 28-105 arround that shutter speed. I don't have the link, but there similar post in Pentax forum. Look for them. I don't think this is linked to SR.

What I remembered is that there hand shake that SR try to counter, but there is the camera itself: the shutter, the mirror... This is a problem that all camera have. DSLR it is far less often because of the weight. At some point the whole m4/3 industry was plagged with it around 1/100s a second too. On K1, it seems to be an issue with the 28-105, but not with the other zooms that are heavier and as such reduce the shake.

I tyhink Ricoh partially fixed it with a firmware updare where you can now use the electronic shutter instead of the mecanical one and that remove the issue for this kind of shutter speeds...

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Last edited by Nicolas06; 03-26-2017 at 01:27 AM.

[Canada_Rockies]

It is also possible to "rush" the shot with SR on and take it before SR has settled down. I'm an impatient shooter at times; I speak from experience. One way to cheat is to set the camera for Continuous shutter. The second and third stops are taken after the mirror shock has dissipated.

[thazooo]

I see you mentioned EM1. My experience between Pentax and Oly SR is that OLY is a lot better. My experience comes from using E-PL1 and 6. Even with the awkward holding of a P&S, SR works works better.
Now before the flames start, I'm a Pentax shooter

[UncleVanya]

I haven't used the Oly EM1 but I routinely get 3-4 stops extra on many of my lenses. I do not have a k-1 and I don't have a 28-105.

[Nicolas06]

I haven't used the Oly EM1 but I routinely get 3-4 stops extra on many of my lenses. I do not have a k-1 and I don't have a 28-105.

4 stops? You are better than me... 4 stop on APS, mean you can get sharp shot out of the DA15 between 1/2s and 1s and that you do 1/6s on a DA70... Not bad. I certainly can't do that with high change of success (like 80-90% keeper rate).

I'd consider 1.5-2 stops more doable: DA15 in the 1/5-1/10s range and 1/25-1/40s for a DA70. To be on the safe side, if I want sharp pictures, I'd avoid to go beyond 1 stop gain.

[awscreo]

Need further testing. Haven't had a chance yet

[cali92rs]

I personally dont use SR unless i cant maintain 1/(focal length) shutter speed at a reasonable ISO. With today's sensors and noise reduction software that is usually 32-6400. I find keeping a fast shutter speed yields better results than trying to minimize ISO. Of course ymmv.

[UncleVanya]

4 stops? You are better than me... 4 stop on APS, mean you can get sharp shot out of the DA15 between 1/2s and 1s and that you do 1/6s on a DA70... Not bad. I certainly can't do that with high change of success (like 80-90% keeper rate).

I'd consider 1.5-2 stops more doable: DA15 in the 1/5-1/10s range and 1/25-1/40s for a DA70. To be on the safe side, if I want sharp pictures, I'd avoid to go beyond 1 stop gain.

I see more on the longer lenses than the short ones. I have shot handheld shots with the DA 200 at 1/25 and slower with good sharpness.

[awscreo]

Again it's just the inconsistencies, maybe it's true as people above mentioned that this isn't a remedy for all times (it is more so on mirrorless systems), but a tool that helps to improve your hitrate. Maybe I should've use burst mode and shoot 5-6 frames for each image.