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03-30-2017, 12:44 PM   #1
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K5iis AF sharpness and LR issues

I recently purchased my first Pentax DSLR, K5iis - It's by far my favorite ergonomic body I've ever owned. In the past 3 years, I've owned/used almost every brand and camera type, except Samsung and I notice that the DNG raw files are just missing something when I try to apply my LR presets. They just don't look as nice as files I got from Canon, Nikon, Sony and Fuji.
Are there specific Pentax profiles I should begin with in Lightroom?


The other issue I'm having is the sharpness of my files. I tried adjusting micro AF (+2) and they still don't seem to be sharp. Since the K5iis is missing the AA filter, I'm having a hard time figuring out why the files aren't sharp. I only own one lens, FA 50mm f.18.


Any help would be appreciated.

03-30-2017, 01:03 PM - 1 Like   #2
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The first thing to do in Lightroom is to scroll down to the Camera Calibration area and change the profile from "Adobe Standard" to "Embedded", which uses the camera's own embedded colour profile instead of Adobe's rather flat-looking default. I also apply lens corrections if the profile for the lens exists. I have the camera and lens profile changes set up to apply at import for each of my cameras.

Then, using a preset I've set up, I typically apply Contrast +10, Clarity +10 and Vibrance +7, and a very, very gentle "S"-shape to the Tone Curve - Highlights +3, Lights +5, Darks -5, Shadows -3, or something something like that.

Finally, I'll tweak the Exposure, White and Black point, and Highlights and Shadows to suit. This is done manually.

That should get you started for the post-processing, at least. It'll give a little bit of richness and pop to your photos as a starting point, and you can take it from there

Last edited by BigMackCam; 03-30-2017 at 01:13 PM.
03-30-2017, 01:03 PM   #3
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It depends on what you are looking for, and what you mean by "nice". Can you post examples of both what you are getting and what you prefer?
03-30-2017, 01:11 PM   #4
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Can you post something from the camera that you think shows this lack off sharpness or "impact"? We'll want EXIF data for better understanding of what is going on.

Have you tried using Live View and manual focusing, with magnification to aid in getting focus just right, with a tripod and a nice stationary target? It's not fast but it could help sort out if this is an AF issue or something else.

03-30-2017, 01:12 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by dreamplayhouse Quote
I tried adjusting micro AF (+2) and they still don't seem to be sharp.
What sort of calibration tool did you use, what AF point do you use, and did you find that +2 was the most in-focus adjustment after properly testing (de-focusing between each AF test)? Does this occur at all apertures?
03-30-2017, 01:15 PM   #6
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Could be the lens, could be aperture setting, or it could be the accuracy of the focus. Hard to say without samples.

You could test the latter by taking some test photos and focusing in live view.

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03-30-2017, 06:27 PM   #7
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I've had the K-5 IIs for several years now. I've found it to deliver exceptionally sharp results. I shoot mostly JPEGs. In your situation, I recommend first to go back to the lens AF fine adjustment menu and put it back to default. Then prepare to shoot JPEGs for a while. The default setting in the custom image menu is the "Bright" setting. This setting has a color palette which produces colorful images, but tends to make skin tones too warm for people shots, but might be just fine for people who are looking too pale. Switching to the "Natural" category is often best for people shots. There is a button for accessing the custom image categories on the 4-way controller. If you open this setting you will notice the Bright" default is or should be right there. If not, hit the button again and all categories will be displayed. Now use the 4-way controller to select the "Bright" category. It is or should be pre-set with both contrast and sharpness up by one notch. The default adjustments have the marker in green color. Now scroll down to "sharpness" and increase it by one more notch, then use the thumb wheel to include "Fine" sharpness- not "EX" just "F". I bump up sharpness in the "Natural" menu as well and apply "Fine" sharpness, and do likewise to a couple of other categories. I have done the same with previous Pentax models. Tests of some recent Pentax models have found such adjustments, especially setting "Fine" sharpness, to be of value. Of course, I do not bump up anything in the "Portrait" image category.

The idea here is to see if you will now get good sharpness, contrast, etc in your JPEG images. If so, the problem definitely lies in your processing of RAW images. Also, the DA 50mm f/1.8 has a good reputation, but perhaps not so much at f/1.8 so avoid shooting wide open. Do take a considerable length of time shooting this way, and under various lighting conditions, with various subject matter. This should provide some insight as to what is going on. If you get your JPEGs on track first, we know then the equipment is working the way it should. Take your time. Next is RAW processing.


Last edited by mikesbike; 03-30-2017 at 06:37 PM.
03-30-2017, 08:45 PM   #8
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You might consider using the Pentax Utility v4 or the Silkypix software..I had the same "problem" with RAW on a K-R, K30, and K5iis, and Lightroom wasnt very good post sharpening.Pentax RAWs are kind of thick and very neutral if you see them on a monitor.Other brands are sharper but its because they tend to pp inside the camera, you can search DP about it..And thats what you DONT want..Trust me, install that cd that came with your K5..youll be surprised..
03-31-2017, 07:57 AM   #9
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Thanks all for suggestions. I will try some of them/all and get back with my findings.
04-01-2017, 01:01 PM   #10
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+1 with others we need example of:
- what you got with a clear description of the issue
- an example of your friends photos and what you think is so nice about them.
04-04-2017, 12:45 PM   #11
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After some fiddling and adjustments, I'm now a happy camper with sharpness, colors and focus from my K5iis!

I can post two photos tonight.

Thanks!
04-04-2017, 02:53 PM   #12
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Very glad to hear things are going as they should, and that you have joined us happy owners of that Pentax model! Since you are new to Pentax, you might now explore the advantages of the operationally fast, efficient, and exclusive, Pentax Hyper System. It goes way back to the mid-1990's. Pentax has not lately been taking the needed steps to clearly explain its use in owners manuals, so many Pentax owners are not even aware of what they have. And it's right there for immediate use, right below your fingertips!

If you are shooting in Program mode, and you'd rather have a different shutter speed or aperture than the one the camera has selected, just use the thumb or finger dial and change it! The first click freezes the value where it is, the next click changes it. You are now in the Pentax Hyper Program mode. You can even go back and forth, and change aperture or shutter speed instantly. Unlike the temporary program shift of other brands, your setting will stay where you put it as long as light is sufficient to allow metering, or you shut off the camera, or you hit the green button to instantly return to full Program mode. In actuality, this system allows you to instantly shift to Shutter Priority mode (Tv) or Aperture Priority mode (Av) and back to Program mode again, without having to first use the mode dial to select that mode then select a setting. It is an amazingly fast and efficient way to switch between P, Tv, or Av modes on the fly to get the operation from the camera you need in order to deal with the circumstance confronting you, without even needing to take your eye from the viewfinder!

If you will be shooting exclusively in Av or Tv mode, and also turning off the camera periodically, then of course use the mode dial.

When shooting in Manual mode, you can set your aperture and shutter speed according to your meter readings by using the thumb and finger dials in the usual manner, or you can go to Pentax Hyper Manual operation simply by hitting the green button- which will instantly set your shutter speed and aperture to center-meter exposure, according to the program line! Then you can make any changes from there. It is the fastest operation I have ever experienced for taking spot-meter readings around a scene. Furthermore, after hitting the green button to instantly set exposure, and you want to change the aperture, first hit the AE-L button to lock exposure before using the thumb dial to select your aperture, and the shutter speed will follow along to preserve your exposure! This works the same way if you change the shutter speed- the aperture will follow along!

It is ingeniously simple and effective, and it's right there. Just use the system in actual practice, as your needs or wishes indicate, and see how you like it! This system is not very adaptable for use with flash, from what I have found.
04-04-2017, 04:56 PM   #13
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Here are the two pics. Only thing still bothering me is the blue 'fringing' ? around the edges like you see on the fence.








Last edited by dreamplayhouse; 04-04-2017 at 05:05 PM.
04-04-2017, 06:01 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by dreamplayhouse Quote
Only thing still bothering me is the blue 'fringing' ? around the edges like you see on the fence.
This setting might helps. Assume that you are using Adobe in post.

04-04-2017, 06:45 PM   #15
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Fringing usually depends on your lens..what lens where you using?
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