Originally posted by Brooke Meyer I've shot a few weddings, just enough to know it's not my cup of tea but I photograph a lot of dance so no flash and high shutter speeds that require high ISO. Used K-5 bodies, then K5IIs bodies when price was good and also use a K3II. I was a little worried the K3II wouldn't be as clean as the K3II but it's pretty close.
Here's a K5IIs example at ISO 6400, long lens that max'ed at f4
Here's a K3II & DA 50-135 at ISO 8000 which I printed at 14x20 for the lobby card poster.
Finally, here's an older K5 & 50-135 image at ISO 6400 at an outdoor wedding reception that started an hour late and long after sunset
Nice shots. But take a look at your images, take a look at the images I've posted and tell me one thing, but please be sincere because I'm not trying to start a debate here. What is the big difference in our images? I'm not talking about composition right now because the images I posted above were just some test shots on location. I'm going to tell you the difference and you can confirm if I'm right, ok?
The big difference in our images is the quality of the light. I photograph a lot of events in theatres and even if sometimes the light is poor on the stage, the quality of light compensate that poor light and that's why you can use high ISO and get away with good images with less noise than usual. If you also have a good background as you had in the first image...even better.
I had the opportunity to learn about the difference between bad light and quality light from a few very known photographers (each and every one has his own recognizable style), the most known of them being Jeff Ascough, one of the first top 10 international wedding photographers. His 1 day workshop was impressive, because he is known as a photographer who barely uses flashes in his work. All of them told me to always:
- look for available light and use it in my advantage
- look for quality light, even if is less than I wanted because the noise is not so visible in the presence of quality light
So yes, there are circumstances where you can use with success ISO 8000 on a K5/K3 (like the examples from above) and there are circumstances were poor light + bad light + bad background (brown being one of the worse when high ISO is involved) can give you headaches starting from ISO 1600. A full frame like K1 has a big advantage over K5/K3 starting from ISO 1600 and that's why I said that I prefer a K1 as my first camera for events. As a back-up camera I would choose a K-5 II or a K3 with no problem.