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02-19-2007, 02:11 PM   #16
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And neither the 540 or the 360 have a manual mode, I guess?

02-19-2007, 02:22 PM   #17
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No; you're not finding it easy! And that's really sad because learning three simple lighting ratios and the sequence of f/stops and shutter speeds to the nearest 1/2 stop is the exact solution. (I'd be happy to point you at an EV table--but that's not average*

As to p-ttl being a rip-off: well, I've seen cameras with attached can/bottle openers--what am I to say about what the average consumer finds useful?

PTTL/TTL/AUTO/"insert other mindless technique" are good for average shooters on average days, shooting average scenes and expecting average results. I've never encounters such scenes and wanted these results, but to each his/her own.*
02-19-2007, 02:31 PM   #18
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Randy,

I win awards for my lack of 'tact'; but damnitallanyway, it's just so OBVIOUS that phill-phlash is pharsical it's phoolish.

XOXOXOXO,
John

Here is some more tactless drivel:

Sit just one time on the models seat and let me pop my 540 right at your face a couple times--how long before you say "enough"?

Spend a few hours trying to PP the glare, the catch lights, the color shifts and tell me that's fun.

This is supposed to be a forum for photography not BD&SM!
02-19-2007, 03:27 PM   #19
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Strobist's manual flash technique obviously works well for a lot of people. But it is not a solution to me. There is no such thing as one solution for all.

I much prefer P-TTL, maybe I am the average guy [shrug].
I like P-TTL, I need High Speed Sync, I want the speed of flash setup using P-TTL, I want the total flexibility in choosing aperture and ISO without all the calculations, I prefer the P-TTL wireless multiple flash control where I can set the master:slave ratio right from my camera instead of attending and adjusting each individual slave flash.... and so on. P-TTL has worked well for me.

I am not saying which one is better, all I know is that P-TTL has worked better in my application. I would not preach one way or the other, and I would not suggest that there is one and only solution.

It is simply not helpful to sidetrack the whole thread just because of your own preference.

QuoteOriginally posted by jfdavis58 Quote
And that's really sad because learning three simple lighting ratios and the sequence of f/stops and shutter speeds to the nearest 1/2 stop is the exact solution. (I'd be happy to point you at an EV table--but that's not average*
As to p-ttl being a rip-off: well, I've seen cameras with attached can/bottle openers--what am I to say about what the average consumer finds useful?
PTTL/TTL/AUTO/"insert other mindless technique" are good for average shooters on average days, shooting average scenes and expecting average results. I've never encounters such scenes and wanted these results, but to each his/her own.*


02-19-2007, 05:03 PM   #20
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My 2 cents

Back to the Mark's question. My response has nothing to do with complicated stuff.

This is a cheesy solution which the pro's may scoff at, but it has worked for me on my DS2. I know that fill-flash isn't always the answer, but when shooting a dark subject with a super bright background without any time to set up (or think about) a complicated solution, this is what I do with my external flash on the camera:

1. link AE point with AF point (in the menu).
2. Using "P" or "Av" mode, aim the AF point at the bright background and press the "AE-L" button to lock the exposure.
3. Aim at your subject, AF and shoot.

The AE-Lock will ensure that the bright parts aren't blown out, and the flash will hit the nearer subject improving the lighting there.

Hope this helps,
02-19-2007, 05:12 PM   #21
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I actually, find it quite typical that the "experts" like to belittle those that are asking questions and trying to gain knowledge. It's a shame. Especially in a place like this.
02-19-2007, 05:20 PM   #22
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Fon with Light

QuoteOriginally posted by Mark Castleman Quote
Having recently found a used AF360FGZ for my K10D, and hoping to shorten the experimentation process, I now appeal for communal wisdom. What settings have worked for you using the AF360 as a fill flash? I would love to eliminate the dark eye sockects of the few people that I photograph, while still having the background exposed properly.
If you have the time, may I suggest you start experimenting with other creative possibilities. You could build your own home made "Snoot" to accentuate the subject matter. Take a piece of cardboard and make a funnelled tube and attach it to your flash. Now try using it aimed directly towards the subject. See what happens. Now, take a piece of aluminium foil, turn your flash away from the subject and towards the aluminium foil you mounted to a piece of 30 cm cardboard. Put the Cardboard on any type of stand or pole or broom stick you have available and direct the cardboard toward the subject...In otherwards bounce the flash off of the aluminium cardboard reflector.
See What happens...Now start playing with light...
02-19-2007, 06:49 PM   #23
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heres how i use fill flash..







taken in full daylight.. on a snowy day

trog

02-19-2007, 08:17 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by nosnoop Quote
Strobist's manual flash technique obviously works well for a lot of people. But it is not a solution to me. There is no such thing as one solution for all.
Twisted; quaint trick! P-TTL is one solution for all/Strobist is the culmination of many voices over many years neatly compiled into a general solution for all.

QuoteQuote:
I much prefer P-TTL, maybe I am the average guy [shrug].
I like P-TTL, I need High Speed Sync, I want the speed of flash setup using P-TTL, I want the total flexibility in choosing aperture and ISO without all the calculations,
Counting and calculating: related but different. Certainly more universally built into the average user -vs- recalling what a lot of little buttons do and what order to activate them.

QuoteQuote:
I am not saying which one is better, all I know is that P-TTL has worked better in my application. I would not preach one way or the other, and I would not suggest that there is one and only solution.
Not preaching or, as all ready stated, not offering one solution, but rather a general nearly universally accepted solution

QuoteQuote:
It is simply not helpful to sidetrack the whole thread just because of your own preference.
I do my hijacking with a ... Not sidetracking anything--giving best info available---did you even read the strobist material before diss'n my response?
02-19-2007, 08:21 PM   #25
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Bellittle? Get real; I smashed a long time myth. Exactly whose culture, creed or sexual orientation did I disrespect?


Oh, I get it now--this is the polite way of playing the N**i card (Godwin's Law) and killing the thread.

Well, ignorance is bliss!

Last edited by jfdavis58; 02-19-2007 at 08:38 PM. Reason: Information update
02-19-2007, 09:27 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by slipchuck Quote
jtdavis
your just so subtle sometimes
And so much to the point.
02-19-2007, 11:08 PM   #27
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High Speed Sync Mode only works when Shutter Speed set from 1/250 s and above. It's automatically set by body and flash. I have *ist DS and FGZ-360, they work well except FGZ-360 it's a little dark compares to K10D or *ist D.

Duy
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