[reh321]

Moving to a new camera would have little to nothing to do with better iso performance for me. How I use it, I'm pretty happy with my current cameras iso performance.

Moving to a K-70 would radically change what I do. I don't use LightRoom, so I cannot give any hard statistics. I am happiest at 100 or 200. With my Q-7, I treat 400 as a hard limit; with my K-30, I treat 800 as a hard limit. I pass on a number of shots I would eagerly go for if I had more confidence in what my camera would do at a higher ISO value, but this month I had to transfer funds from our meager savings to checking, so no upgrade is happening in the immediate future.

[Storm Chaser]

My k5IIs with good post NR around 1600 or less. K1 is looking like 12,800 with good post NR. for the upper end.

Brian

[stevebrot]

Camera: K-3

Most common subjects: Landscape, abstracts, cars, architecture, water, and close-up work on flowers, cameras, and stuff
Less common subjects: Events, street, action sports, animals, and stuff
Most common ISO: 200
Next most common ISO: 100
Rare ISO(s): 400, 800, 1600, 3200
Auto ISO: Almost never. Auto ISO is evil in much the same way that fortified wine is evil.
Current Auto-ISO range: 100-6400
Auto-ISO parameters: Default
High-ISO NR Setting:

Custom
100-1600, OFF
3200-6400, Low
12800-51200, Medium

DFS: Auto
JPEG vs. RAW: Almost never JPEG

Noise Mitigation Strategy: Deal with it in post
Sensor Noise Angst: Almost undetectable


Steve

[Rupert]

Coming back to this thread......and looking at my history with the K1 I find that ISO 800 is a safe limit to avoid noise and allow some universal sharpening. Sure, you can go much higher and still get very decent results.......but it will depend on the situation, the light, and the processing you have to perform. ISO 800 just continually produces nice smooth results with very easy processing.

1/100 handheld f8 ISO 800 @ 500mm - K1 Jpeg


Don't get me wrong...this is not a limit but it is where the line is drawn for me to get dependable results most every shot. I like ISO 800 on the K1!

Regards!

[BrianR]

1/100 handheld f8 ISO 800 @ 500mm - K1 Jpeg

Terrific photo Rupert... everything about this Cardinal's pose is awesome, the crest, the seed in the mouth, the turned in foot, I don't think it was concerned with the ISO you were using

[Rupert]

Terrific photo Rupert... everything about this Cardinal's pose is awesome, the crest, the seed in the mouth, the turned in foot, I don't think it was concerned with the ISO you were using

Thanks Brian!.....I kind of like her myself. I almost deleted it...for some reason I could not get the Raw file to open so I was going to trash it....but did make a go at the Jpeg. I seldom use the Jpeg's, but in all honesty, most of the time they are plenty good out of the K1. ( I shoot Raw+ Jpeg)

Some here are highly skilled and technical wizards that can offer much insight into ISO values and all the ins and outs of various settings.......I'm just an amateur "gut shooter". I go with what my gut tells me is working and leave the technical reasoning to others!

Any ISO to get a shot is better than not getting the shot at all.....I do use 3200 on the K1 fairly often...and is is very decent.......

ISO 3200


Best Regards!

[CDW]

If Elvis rose from the dead and showed up at my local Shell station at 3:am to fill his Cadillac, and I had to use ISO 25000 to get the shot, it would still be worth a million bucks.

I regularly use up to 6400 for nightscapes, night sky.

[FoxbatK]

I mostly shoot landscapes and architecture. Unless I'm caught in the rain/cloud or something specific, I use ISO100 about 90% of the time. Sometimes during sunset or in a dimly lit alley type setting I realise I can switch ISO and adjust, but 100 default!

If Elvis rose from the dead and showed up at my local Shell station at 3:am to fill his Cadillac, I'd probably not switch the ISO in time to make the million

[TwoUptons]

When my K10 was new, I capped auto ISO at 400 most of the time and grumbled if I had to go higher, but it was still better than film, even at 1600.

When I got my K-01, I let auto-ISO go to 1600 most of the time, but I got decent results up to 6400 if I was careful.

With the K1, I have no qualms with auto-ISO at 6400. And 12,800 is more usable than it has any right to be.

All that said, that's mostly shot on jpeg. I also still have the nasty habit of scrolling all the way in to look at noise, which is a terrible thing to do as it misses all of the resolution improvements that go with the noise improvements...

And if I shoot the K-01 and K1 (in crop mode) back to back, with the same lens, the K1 is close to two stops better. So it's better in terms of technology and resolution, which is a win for me...

-Eric

[MadMathMind]

About 90-95% of my photos, I estimate, are shot between ISO100 and ISO200. When I go over, it's usually not by much and usually under 400. Part of that is that 90% of my photos are done with some artificial lighting so I can get the ISO that low and I go over on that only when I can't get the ratio of flash:ambient I want at lower ISO. But even when I'm shooting "stuff," shake reduction means I can crank the shutter low and still use low ISOs.

It's a bit ironic, really, that we tote the ISO capabilities of the K-1 when if you're shooting static subjects, you can get away with 800 max b/c you can dial the shutter down to 1/20 even with 100mm lenses because the shake reduction is so good.

[Angel Perez]

I mostly shoot landscapes and architecture. Unless I'm caught in the rain/cloud or something specific, I use ISO100 about 90% of the time. Sometimes during sunset or in a dimly lit alley type setting I realise I can switch ISO and adjust, but 100 default!

If Elvis rose from the dead and showed up at my local Shell station at 3:am to fill his Cadillac, I'd probably not switch the ISO in time to make the million

Hit the green button and simply pray!