[paulh]

Doc posing on the fence a few yrs ago....SMC 55/1.8 on K100D:

[carabez]

Today I Woke Up In a foggy morning...

[Dan James]

Looking as some close up options, I found an idea about de-glassing a teleconverter, bought a Pentax Takumar-A 2x version, removed the glass elements and now have a macro extension tube with full automation (aside from manual focus, which is better close up anyway) for my Pentax-A and F lenses.

These two with the K100D and Pentax-A 50/1.7 plus modified teleconverter.





Looking forward to experimenting more!

[kypfer]

Looking as some close up options, I found an idea about de-glassing a teleconverter, bought a Pentax Takumar-A 2x version, removed the glass elements and now have a macro extension tube with full automation (aside from manual focus, which is better close up anyway) for my Pentax-A and F lenses.

These two with the K100D and Pentax-A 50/1.7 plus modified teleconverter.

Looking forward to experimenting more!

For others who may be looking into extension tube options, I have tubes branded "Kenko" which have a full set of seven electrical contacts (plus the dreaded "Ricoh pin", which I've not had a problem with), but no autofocus coupling. These may be cheaper than a Pentax-original converter!

Kenko also produced 1.5x and 2x multipliers marked 'Pz-AF' which feature all seven contacts plus the mechanical screw-drive autofocus coupling and power contacts for power-zoom and HSM lenses. These may be candidates for "de-glassing" should you so wish.

Also available with several brand names are macro-teleconverters which combine a macro-helicoid with a 6-contact 2x converter.

Whilst the seven-pin options may transfer the lens data to the camera for EXIF purposes, the camera is not notified that there is any extender fitted, so, for Shake-Reduction purposes, the camera still "thinks" there's a 50mm lens fitted even if it is now optically a 75mm or 100mm device.

[paulh]

Spring in the woods - M28/3.5 on *ist D:

[paulh]

Oleanders again - Image 28/2.8 on *ist D:

[Dan James]

For others who may be looking into extension tube options, I have tubes branded "Kenko" which have a full set of seven electrical contacts (plus the dreaded "Ricoh pin", which I've not had a problem with), but no autofocus coupling. These may be cheaper than a Pentax-original converter!

Kenko also produced 1.5x and 2x multipliers marked 'Pz-AF' which feature all seven contacts plus the mechanical screw-drive autofocus coupling and power contacts for power-zoom and HSM lenses. These may be candidates for "de-glassing" should you so wish.

Also available with several brand names are macro-teleconverters which combine a macro-helicoid with a 6-contact 2x converter.

Whilst the seven-pin options may transfer the lens data to the camera for EXIF purposes, the camera is not notified that there is any extender fitted, so, for Shake-Reduction purposes, the camera still "thinks" there's a 50mm lens fitted even if it is now optically a 75mm or 100mm device.

Thanks kypfer, this is very useful info for anyone interested in this approach.

I'm pretty sure I can set camera lens manually on my K100D (it also asks for camera's where there's no electronic connection to tell it), so would you recommend setting it manually to something longer. Perhaps 100mm for a 50mm lens with macro extension tube?

[kypfer]

Thanks kypfer, this is very useful info for anyone interested in this approach.

I'm pretty sure I can set camera lens manually on my K100D (it also asks for camera's where there's no electronic connection to tell it), so would you recommend setting it manually to something longer. Perhaps 100mm for a 50mm lens with macro extension tube?

On my cameras with Shake Reduction, ie. those that "ask" for focal length, I always set the camera to exactly what I'm fitting, so a 50mm + tubes is still a 50mm, but a 50mm + 2x is a 100mm. If the lens and tubes or extender have all seven electrical contacts, I don't get the option to input the lens length, the camera "reads" the lens and that's that, unless the seventh contact is "blanked" with a piece of tape or similar. In this case, with my equipment, a 50mm lens is still "read" as a 50mm lens even with a "7-contact" 1.5x or 2x fitted. The more sophisticated (read expensive) OEM teleconverters may be able to "tell" the camera that there's a converter fitted.

Having said all that, if I'm working in macro I'll often have the camera mounted on a tripod and Shake Reduction turned off, as recommended, so the option has no effect

So, no recommendations as such, it's all down to personal workflow and preferences. If you're not sure, and conditions allow, take several exposures at different settings (where available), make written notes and compare the results later. Once you've established your preferred combination(s) you can use those each time. If your camera has a programmable "User Mode" this can be a good place to store these settings

I've even been known to write notes on an adhesive paper label and fix this to a lens when I've found a particular combination of settings that works well for that lens!

Good luck

[Jürgen]

ist DS with Kit 18-55 (I)

[Jürgen]

*ist DS with Kit 18-55 (I)

[Jürgen]

ist DS with Kit 18-55 (I)

[Dan James]

...

So, no recommendations as such, it's all down to personal workflow and preferences. If you're not sure, and conditions allow, take several exposures at different settings (where available), make written notes and compare the results later. Once you've established your preferred combination(s) you can use those each time. If your camera has a programmable "User Mode" this can be a good place to store these settings

I've even been known to write notes on an adhesive paper label and fix this to a lens when I've found a particular combination of settings that works well for that lens!

Good luck

I think this is something I've done little of. I've just come back to DSLRs after a couple of years away, and went with a K30 initially after much research. Really quite taken aback at how erratic the meter is and how much work is needed to get decent exposures - especially using the VF. Live View is significantly better in most situations. So I went back to the old CCDs, via a 6MP K100D and then just got a 10MP K-m (/K2000), and they seem much easier to meter with, plus I prefer the look of the images, especially colour.

But I was still surprised that on the same walk in the same conditions, my DA 35/2.4 might need -0.3 or -0.7 exposure comp as a good basecamp, but on the same camera my A 50/1.7 is about right at +0.3, even +0.7. I'm gradually coming to terms with it, but just still a bit bemused as to why DSLRs and lenses aren't more consistent with exposing. It just feels like with the technology of a 21st century camera you should haven't to work so hard with exposures, making notes on individual lenses etc!

Think I was spoilt when I used to shoot film (2012-2017) with the amazing exposure latitude of colour negative film.

[kypfer]

I was still surprised that on the same walk in the same conditions, my DA 35/2.4 might need -0.3 or -0.7 exposure comp as a good basecamp, but on the same camera my A 50/1.7 is about right at +0.3, even +0.7. I'm gradually coming to terms with it, but just still a bit bemused as to why DSLRs and lenses aren't more consistent with exposing. It just feels like with the technology of a 21st century camera you should haven't to work so hard with exposures, making notes on individual lenses etc!
Think I was spoilt when I used to shoot film (2012-2017) with the amazing exposure latitude of colour negative film.

I occasionally experience "inconsistent" exposures with the viewfinder ... I've come to the conclusion it's mostly caused by light sneaking into the viewfinder because my spectacle-wearing eye isn't clamped closely enough to the rubber cup! The sun needs to be at a fairly specific angle over my right shoulder for this to happen and it never seems to happen when I'm using my right-angle viewfinder (Ref A), I'd guess that's because the angle is "wrong" for the sun to sneak in, but it could be due to the design of the rubber cup fitted to the 'Ref A'.

If you don't wear spectacles this possibly isn't helpful, 'cept as a reminder to keep the viewfinder close to the eye. If you do wear spectacles, depending on the extent of your correction, you might find using the dioptre correction on the viewfinder to be a valid option.

as always - YMMV

[goatsNdonkey]

I occasionally experience "inconsistent" exposures with the viewfinder ... I've come to the conclusion it's mostly caused by light sneaking into the viewfinder because my spectacle-wearing eye isn't clamped closely enough to the rubber cup! The sun needs to be at a fairly specific angle over my right shoulder for this to happen and it never seems to happen when I'm using my right-angle viewfinder (Ref A), I'd guess that's because the angle is "wrong" for the sun to sneak in, but it could be due to the design of the rubber cup fitted to the 'Ref A'.

If you don't wear spectacles this possibly isn't helpful, 'cept as a reminder to keep the viewfinder close to the eye. If you do wear spectacles, depending on the extent of your correction, you might find using the dioptre correction on the viewfinder to be a valid option.

as always - YMMV

I wear eye glasses, as well. I wear a floppy hat with a brim wide enough to cover the top of the camera. That seems to block most of the excessive light that might sneak in through the viewfinder, or glare in my eyeballs when I am trying to focus or frame pictures.

[jack002]

I wear glasses and take them off to use the camera. I can't use glasses with it, I can't see well in there and don't like my glasses pressing on my nose. I use a diopter and it works well. Just the hassle of taking off glasses when using the viewfinder