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09-07-2017, 02:51 PM   #31
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I think EC is a standard item within the Memory section of the Rec menu ...checking it will retain your last set compensation value.

However, I have to say I don't use any default minus EC (we shouldn't be calling this "underexposure", should we?) ......I find my subjects and light conditions way too varied for anything fixed, and I use both minus and plus values frequently.It is normal to go as far as -3, but rare to go beyond +1.


Last edited by mcgregni; 09-07-2017 at 02:56 PM.
09-07-2017, 03:24 PM   #32
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"It depends".

If I'm shooting high contrast outdoor scenes I often use -1 EV, or bracket with -3, -1, +1. In flatter light without anything to blow highlights I find that +1 EV gives better data for processing.
09-07-2017, 03:35 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
Do you have a negative exposure by default?
Nope. I just look at the histogram and adjust on the fly, if needed. The histogram is not perfect, but it does give you a pretty decent idea if you are blowing highlights
In fact, I sometimes do ETTR, just as long as I can get away with the highlights.

If you shoot at higher ISO or do a lot of PP, (contrast, saturation, sharpening) the added digital brightening will make the noise more apparent
09-07-2017, 03:41 PM   #34
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For me it depends on the circumstances I am confronting and the camera I am using. Sometimes I have decreased or increased exposure somewhat. My KP's metering has been very accurate, except for a few instances where there was overexposure due to the metering over-compensating for a backlit scene. Otherwise, I underexpose mainly when I see a potential for blownout highlights.

The K-20 and 200D, which I no longer use, underexpose by default, by around -.7 EV. My K-5 IIs underexposes by perhaps -3 EV. My K-S2 and KP seem right on, near as I can tell.

09-07-2017, 04:10 PM   #35
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Nope. Incidental blown out clouds do not bother me. If they are large then they start becoming the subject and the exposure will normally be adjusted anyway.

Worst thing to see is perfect little clouds and all the rest of the image underexposed as a result.
09-07-2017, 04:26 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by SpecialK Quote
Nope. Incidental blown out clouds do not bother me. If they are large then they start becoming the subject and the exposure will normally be adjusted anyway.

Worst thing to see is perfect little clouds and all the rest of the image underexposed as a result.
But our new generation cameras have such a high dynamic range that we can get it all good. If we fry the highlights at picture taking time then we can't.
09-07-2017, 04:33 PM   #37
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I have both my K-5 and K-3 set to underexpose slightly at about -0.7. It helps with sky and clouds from being overexposed.

09-07-2017, 05:26 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by jddwoods Quote
I have both my K-5 and K-3 set to underexpose slightly at about -0.7. It helps with sky and clouds from being overexposed.
Yep, whether it's a wedding dress, a car or clouds, we can underexpose in camera to make sure we get all that detail, and everything else in the scene we can lift in Lightroom afterwards.

We can get a sharper shot, too, by doubling the shutter speed.
09-07-2017, 10:13 PM   #39
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I do not have a standard underexposure in order to preserve highlights; I do selectively underexpose in order to preserve highlights when there is something particularly bright in the scene. Despite the availability of histogram (which i do check when necessary), I use the image review to evaluate the scene, and I want it to be pretty well exposed for me to do this.


However -- on the K-3 II I do regularly have it set to -.3. The K-3 II seems to expose the scene more than the K-5 or K-1. Generally it looks lighter than I like it, and the -.3 brings it down to a more pleasing color brightness. Not really sure why this would be the case, though, nor does it seem to be a likely miscalibration of the meter?
09-07-2017, 10:24 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
Do you underexpose by default?
If I am shooting about base iso up till 1600 most of the time I go -0.3

When shooting base iso and not action I go +1 to +1.5 depending on how accurately I am metering the scene
09-08-2017, 03:28 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
Do you use only 'modern' Pentax glass?
DFAs and DA.
09-08-2017, 03:38 AM   #42
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No, unless I have to.
09-08-2017, 04:22 AM   #43
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I use compensation in the field when necessary, but I trust K-3 metering, so default is 0 EV. The exception is for BIF, where I use +0.5 EV.

I'd rather pull back highlights than boost shadows for lower noise.
09-08-2017, 11:09 PM   #44
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I underexpose whenever in certain situations when I'm certain that crucial highlights will be blown away forever even with Raw, which happens really easily with my K-50. However, when a subject is backlit like a bird in a tree I usually overexpose to get the exposure of the bird right. I try not to underexpose too much to minimise noise but sometimes it is unavoidable.
09-09-2017, 05:25 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
At least with the K-1, you can save the EV setting on the user modes
I used to always under-expose by 0.5-1.0 stop on my Nikon film cameras but generally let my Pentax cameras set the exposure as most of the time it's spot on. I just make an adjustment if the particular situation seems to suggest doing so.

I haven't started using the "user modes" yet but this seems good reason to do so. Is that option available with the K-3?
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