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08-23-2008, 08:16 AM   #1
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how to shoot hdr with K20D?

I glance through the manual but don't know how to shoot hdr. Anyone can help me on this?

08-23-2008, 08:22 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by yipchunyu Quote
I glance through the manual but don't know how to shoot hdr. Anyone can help me on this?
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/34943-disapointing...nfrared-2.html

See my post at the top of the second page.

Good luck.
08-23-2008, 08:29 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
sorry, your instruction is for IR?
I would like to know how to take HDR photos. How to do so? thx in advance.
08-23-2008, 08:39 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by yipchunyu Quote
I glance through the manual but don't know how to shoot hdr. Anyone can help me on this?
You must take several shots of the same scene at different exposure settings and merge the pictures in e.g. Photoshop. There is no other feature on the K20D to achieve this than either do it yourself (change exposure manually between the shots), or use the 5 step auto-bracketing.

08-23-2008, 08:53 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by yipchunyu Quote
sorry, your instruction is for IR?
I would like to know how to take HDR photos. How to do so? thx in advance.
Woops, Sorry, all I saw was the R.. The way I do HDR, is to set the camera on a tripod and take several shots changing the shutter speed, leaving the ISO and Aperture at a given point. Then I let Photoshop CS3 take care of the blending. It can be done with other software, I'm sure but, I just just prefer to use the provided tools. I'm no expert but the idea from what I understand is to capture as much shadow and highlight detail as possible. Changing the exposure by changing the shutter speed accomplishes that.
08-23-2008, 09:00 AM   #6
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use the multiple exposure function of the K10D or K20D with changing exposure value to get in-camera processed HDR picture. You can also use Photoshop by combining several pictures. Be sure to use a sturdy tripod.
08-23-2008, 11:23 AM   #7
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The best software for HDR is Photomatix Pro 3. Far more options than Photoshop CS3, and also great quality pics

08-23-2008, 01:21 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Spex Quote
The best software for HDR is Photomatix Pro 3. Far more options than Photoshop CS3, and also great quality pics
I couldn't (respectfully) disagree more and at the heart of the discussion is what constitutes HDR. Most of the stuff made with Photomatix is most definitely NOT HDR.

Good intro/tutorial to what REAL HDR is: Backing Winds: How to Create Professional HDR Images
08-23-2008, 05:03 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by cheekygeek Quote
Good intro/tutorial to what REAL HDR is: Backing Winds: How to Create Professional HDR Images
I don't disagree but would like to clarify. It isn't the programs. It's their users.

You can combine multiple images into one 32 Bit HDR file using Photoshop (as described in the link above), or use Photomatix and save w/o tone mapping.

You can import either file into either program to apply tone mapping. Photomatix covers about the same controls the Photoshop HDR converter has. But IMHO, the histogram control in Photoshop is nicer. Nevertheless, in the end it is the user who will be responsible for the result.
08-23-2008, 05:15 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
use the multiple exposure function of the K10D or K20D with changing exposure value to get in-camera processed HDR picture. You can also use Photoshop by combining several pictures. Be sure to use a sturdy tripod.
That won't make a HDR picture, it will just do multiple exposure on the same "frame".
08-23-2008, 08:08 PM   #11
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yes, i retried it today. just use auto-bracketing and then use the hdr filter when reviewing the pic. thx all
08-24-2008, 04:29 AM   #12
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There are several methods in obtaining the image or images needed to process and produce a tone-maped HDR result. Some of the usual mehtods have already been discussed, but allow me to also add that you can create an HDR from a single RAW image, instead of from 3-5 bracketed shots. All you do is adjust the exposure of the image as many times as you want, and then process as you would a bracketed shot....

Also, another alternative to CS or Photomatix is Dynamic Photo HDR by Mediachance...It can produce a fantastic result and to me, is the most user friendly of the bunch. Check it out:

Dynamic Photo HDR, high dynamic range imaging software with Anti-Ghosting

Have fun!

Jason
08-24-2008, 04:42 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by cheekygeek Quote
I couldn't (respectfully) disagree more and at the heart of the discussion is what constitutes HDR. Most of the stuff made with Photomatix is most definitely NOT HDR.

Good intro/tutorial to what REAL HDR is: Backing Winds: How to Create Professional HDR Images
As falconeye said, problem is in users, not in software, since many people are trying to get cartoon-like results, and they think THAT's HDR. And it's not!
If you take few pics from -2 to +2 EV (or greater range; K10D allows ±3), and then blend them proper way, what's that if not HDR? That's excatly what guy on the link you have give is talking about
Just using Photoshop rather than Photomatix, or some other software.

>Jasvox: this program looks interesting, will try it, tnx.
08-24-2008, 04:49 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jasvox Quote
allow me to also add that you can create an HDR from a single RAW image, instead of from 3-5 bracketed shots. All you do is adjust the exposure of the image as many times as you want, and then process as you would a bracketed shot
Nice, but not as good as using bracketed? I'm thinking if highlights are blown, there won't be detail left to expose.
08-24-2008, 09:15 AM   #15
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The few times I have used HDR, I have set my k10d to 5 shots at 2 stop intervals on the bracket. This gives the HDR software you use the best odds of finding detail in every point in the photo. Along with several other posters above, I recommend that you let the software do its thing, and then critically review the image. All I try to do with this is to make visible the details. The dark areas must remain dark with barely visible detail, and the light areas also with barely visible detail. I find that this is a very fine balancing act to avoid, as one poster pointed out, the cartoon effect.
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