[AquaDome]

The MZ-S, of course.

[monochrome]

I have a K-1 for things that don’t move and a KP for things that do. I had a K-3, which was like a K-1 jr.

You won’t go wrong with either choice, KP or K-3ll. Choose based on the combination of features you think better suited to your long tripod shooting.

[totsmuyco]

The best backup for a K1 is a backup K1 or... a K1.

I agree. A back up for a full frame is another full frame. Why go for a smaller sensor?

[Gregor]

I agree. A back up for a full frame is another full frame. Why go for a smaller sensor?

Price and pixel density

[aslyfox]

several posters seem to think that there are differences between the K 1 and the K 3 or K 3 II that makes either of those a good back up to a K 1

I don't own a K 1 so I can't speak to how it works but the side by side comparisons does show some differences

how important they are, which is better may be like " what is beauty "

" it is in the eye of the beholder "

[noelpolar]

The best backup for a K1 is a backup K1 or... a K1.

Yeah... I'm thinking of replacing my K3 with another K-1. I thought I'd leave the K3 on my DFA 150-450.... but always preffer the K-1 as a first choice... so the benefit of having a second camera is diminished to that of a failure backup.... not a usefull second body.

[mikesbike]

The KP is the ideal APS-C companion for the K-1, which was one of its design goals. Based on its design and its now-proven performance, the KP might be worth saving up for. Price has already come down some. Right now there's only about $150 difference over a new K-3 II, and you get performance very much in line with the K-1, and the latest technology in a compact form.

[Gregor]

Yeah... I'm thinking of replacing my K3 with another K-1. I thought I'd leave the K3 on my DFA 150-450.... but always preffer the K-1 as a first choice... so the benefit of having a second camera is diminished to that of a failure backup.... not a usefull second body.

Would you say the k1 cropped would produce sharper images than the K3 cropped sensor on the d fa 150-450? My idea for the K3 or KP would be more of a companion as well as a back up. It would be like having a 1.5 Tele converter without the loss of light. Plus my lazy self wouldn't have to change lenses from landscape to telephoto.

[monochrome]

Would you say the k1 cropped would produce sharper images than the K3 cropped sensor on the d fa 150-450? My idea for the K3 or KP would be more of a companion as well as a back up. It would be like having a 1.5 Tele converter without the loss of light. Plus my lazy self wouldn't have to change lenses from landscape to telephoto.

The K-1 cropped is similar to the K-5 in resolution. K-3/K-3ll/KP should offer higher resolution than K-1 cropped

[gm4life]

I would highly recommend a KP or K-3II. Both awesome cameras.

[noelpolar]

Would you say the k1 cropped would produce sharper images than the K3 cropped sensor on the d fa 150-450? My idea for the K3 or KP would be more of a companion as well as a back up. It would be like having a 1.5 Tele converter without the loss of light. Plus my lazy self wouldn't have to change lenses from landscape to telephoto.

I thought the same, but it hasnt worked out that way for me.

I find that I take few "wow" photos with the K3 on the DFA 150-450..... especially if it's about printing rather then web images... even with the buffer depth issues with the K-1.... I feel better prepare for whatever with the K-1 attached. Probally not helpfull.... sorry.... I think the higher usefull iso etc has a bit to do with it.... the 150-450 eats light.

[aslyfox]

Given the focus on Wildlife and the budget I really think the K-3 is the right option. You get the big buffer, the high frame rate, the dual cards, and a high density sensor that will crop nicely if needed. I'd say that's the best answer. The KP is likely more expensive and I think it has a smaller buffer and lower frame rate.

Pentax K-3 II vs. Pentax K-3 vs. Pentax KP - Pentax Camera Comparison - PentaxForums.com

I'm a newbie, I am still learning and I am trying to figure out how much trouble I will be in with the Spouse when I suggest getting either a K 1 (new or used )
or K 3 II (new or used ) or K 3 (new or used ) to go along with my K 3 and get rid of my K 5 II.

for me, with regard to photographing wildlife which may be on the move these are the important factors.

I could be wrong and I will gladly listen to other factors I should be considering but with the limitations of the K 1 as shown below I think I am putting it as my 3rd choice:

the first camera in each section is the K 1 full frame and crop, then the K 3 II then the K 3

Maximum FPS

4.4 (6.5 in crop mode)

8.3

8.3

Continuous Shooting

Full frame: H: 4.4 fps (70 JPG, 17 RAW) M: 3.0 fps (100 JPG, 20 RAW) L: 0.7 fps (100 JPG, 100 RAW)

APS-C crop: H: 6.5 fps (100 JPG, 50 RAW) M: 3.0 fps (100 JPG, 70 RAW) L: 1.0 fls (100 JPG, 100 RAW)

Hi: 8.3 fps up to approx. 60 frames (JPG), up to approx. 23 frames (RAW), M: 4.5 fps up to approx 100 frames (JPG), 32 frames (RAW), Lo: 3 fps uup to approx. 200 frames (JPG), up to appox. 52 frames (RAW)

Hi: 8.3 fps up to approx. 60 frames (JPG), up to approx. 23 frames (RAW), M: 4.5 fps up to approx 100 frames (JPG), 32 frames (RAW), Lo: 3 fps uup to approx. 200 frames (JPG), up to appox. 52 frames (RAW)


https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-cameras-compared/?c1=Pentax+K-1&c...&c3=Pentax+K-3

[noelpolar]

I'm a newbie, I am still learning and I am trying to figure out how much trouble I will be in with the Spouse when I suggest getting either a K 1 (new or used )
or K 3 II (new or used ) or K 3 (new or used ) to go along with my K 3 and get rid of my K 5 II.

Since you are a DFA 150-450 owner.... then I'd suggest (based on my experience) that..... if you are after lots of frames to choose a "moment", with IQ a second then K3/K3II. If you are after IQ and are willing to place more emphasis on anticipating when to press the shutter then K-1.

Also.... with the K-1.... I find 1.5 stops of more usable ISO for a given quality image.... this can be taken as faster shutter speed etc ...... or better beginning or end of day lower light shots. whilst i can't explain it (as I'm not a technical photographer) I find that I can print 10mp K-1 crops on 24x24" canvas at 150dpi that look great.... very sellable.... there's something going on with the complete package (K-1 and DFA 150-450) that trumps the output from K3 & DFA 150-450. Personally, I will hold off getting rid of my K3 (probably... the recent Aussie 20% off K-1 deal almost tipped me over... silver ones too.... I still want one.... but... I have will power....or maybe I was just indecisive!....my wife can be scary.... maybe our wives are distant relations?) hoping a new K-1 comes out with a deeper buffer... a few more frames per second would be nice... but buffer I've found more important.

Off course, if one is using the K3 and DFA 150-450 in great light, at maximum magnification mostly... then my thoughts would differ.... but I use the DFA a lot over it's full range. I'm not sure, but I think you may be a Jpeg shooter.... I think the K-1 provides better SOC jpegs as well.... less noise to deal with.

I've found.... with the K-1... I'm taking less "no hope" images.... and always now getting closer (where possible)... man... can I get lot's of no hope frames with a K3 and DFA 150-450... hundreds per day!

Not all that related, but I use the flippy screen quite a bit....even with the 150-450....

With regard to "budget" whilst everybody's circumstances are different.... when it comes to highish priced disposable electronic toys, I see budget not so much about absolute $, but more about "can afford now" or save for a few more months and get the bit more expensive one.... so it's mostly about timing for me.... or competing wants.

[aslyfox]

Since you are a DFA 150-450 owner.... then I'd suggest (based on my experience) that..... if you are after lots of frames to choose a "moment", with IQ a second then K3/K3II. If you are after IQ and are willing to place more emphasis on anticipating when to press the shutter then K-1.

I primarily don't want to use burst mode but there are times when the " target " is moving and not standing still or moving and then stopping, such an option is very valuable to me, not so much with telephoto but in trying to use macro to capture pollinators in the field

You reference the D FA 150 - 450 specifically but then it isn't the only telephoto I use, I have the D FA *70 - 200mm as well as the SMC Pentax-DA L 55-300mm F4-5.8 ED, does that make a difference in your opinion?

Also.... with the K-1.... I find 1.5 stops of more usable ISO for a given quality image.... this can be taken as faster shutter speed etc ...... or better beginning or end of day lower light shots. whilst i can't explain it (as I'm not a technical photographer) I find that I can print 10mp K-1 crops on 24x24" canvas at 150dpi that look great.... very sellable.... there's something going on with the complete package (K-1 and DFA 150-450) that trumps the output from K3 & DFA 150-450. Personally, I will hold off getting rid of my K3 (probably... the recent Aussie 20% off K-1 deal almost tipped me over... silver ones too.... I still want one.... but... I have will power....or maybe I was just indecisive!....my wife can be scary.... maybe our wives are distant relations?)

My wife doesn't read the forum but I still am not going to comment on that idea

Off course, if one is using the K3 and DFA 150-450 in great light, at maximum magnification mostly... then my thoughts would differ.... but I use the DFA a lot over it's full range. I'm not sure, but [COLOR="RoyalBlue"]I think you may be a Jpeg shooter.... I think the K-1 provides better SOC jpegs as well.... less noise to deal with...

Yeah, I am, at this time a Jpeg shooter what is SOC?

currently I am experimenting with using a low ISO - 200, 400, etc when possible

__________________________

one thing to be consider IMHO

what are you doing with your photos

are you an amateur ( I am )

or a pro or want to be a pro

by pro, I am talking about a professional who has and plans on selling the images captured in the photos.

I post my photos here and elsewhere on the web

have some photos made into " Stretched Canvas Prints " produced by my local Brick and Mortar store - Wolfe's Camera some at home, most at my wife's place of work

and donate some prints to the Topeka Zoo and Conservation Center

perhaps your use of your photos should determine whether you go for K 1 over a K 3 or K 3 ii or even another Pentax camera body

any thoughts folks??

[UncleVanya]

SOOC or SOC = Straight Out Of the Camera - no post processing.
Shooting RAW will yield some benefits in particular in noise and the ability to recover shadows etc.