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02-25-2018, 10:58 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Minimonster Quote
Ok, silly question but I have also just got a 200d. To correct the under exposure you mention, do I need to add or subtract with the AV correction?
You need to use positive (ie add) exposure compensation, that will get you more light to compensate for the under exposure.

02-26-2018, 03:07 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
You need to use positive (ie add) exposure compensation, that will get you more light to compensate for the under exposure.
Thanks for clearing that up! ☺
02-26-2018, 11:33 PM - 1 Like   #18
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To correct underexposure, just push the exposure comp button (+/_) and use your dial to advance or reduce exposure. I think default is 1/2 EV steps, but you can change that in custom settings menu to 1/3 steps. You can also change your Av (aperture value), or shutter speed settings to be in 1/3 EV steps as well, for when you select your own, and also the ISO steps to be the same when you select that yourself.

As to the Custom Image menu, I don't have a K-200D powered up right now, but I do have a K20D active, which is in the same genre. Just press the fn button and the Custom Image Menu should be there, to be accessed via the "ok" button. It is probably already in the default "Bright" category. You can use the 4-way surrounding buttons to navigate. Just go to the "S" for sharpening, then using your thumb dial, put an "F" by the "S" for Fine Sharpening.

Last edited by mikesbike; 02-26-2018 at 11:40 PM.
02-27-2018, 12:51 AM   #19
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so heres one I took

Just playing so please ignore any imperfections

I like lighthouses


---------- Post added 02-27-18 at 12:58 AM ----------

This one is at Cape Nelson



---------- Post added 02-27-18 at 01:01 AM ----------

Cape Nelson Again



02-27-2018, 01:57 AM   #20
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Those look quite under-exposed to me - the photo looking up the side of the lighthouse is an ideal example of when exposure compensation is needed. Scenes with a lot of white will fool the camera into under exposing, just as scenes with a lot of dark colours will fool it into over-exposing. Be careful not to blow the highlights though (you might want to turn on the highlight warning in the menu).

Looks like you also have a couple of bits of dust or dirt on the sensor. These show up at smaller apertures in scenes with large uniform areas such as sky. In the last image they're visible as small slightly darkened dots, one just to the right of the telephone pole and the other over the trees to the left of the lighthouse. Now that I look, there might be a few more smaller dots. Look into the in-camera and non-camera options for sensor cleaning (a few good blasts from a rocket blower are usually enough to shift most dirt).
02-27-2018, 02:18 AM   #21
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Thanks Jonathan... underexposed is dark? over exposed is light?

Total beginner here with that techy stuff....but willing and able to learn new tricks!

I've ordered a sensor cleaning brush and a general lens cleaning kit, so I'll be doing that soon too!
02-27-2018, 03:30 AM - 1 Like   #22
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lots of friendly members

and good articles

can be found here at the forum

Exposure Basics: A Complete Guide for Beginners - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

links to these articles can be found on page 1

Exposure Bracketing 101
Landscape Photography: How to Expose for Mixed Lighting
Using the Histogram to Get Better Photos
A Basic Guide to Long Exposures
Daylight Long Exposures Using an ND Filter
Long Exposure Composite Photography
T-Stops vs F-Stops in a Camera Lens


Read more at: https://www.pentaxforums.com/articles/photo-articles/exposure-basics-beginne...#ixzz58Is212kz

02-27-2018, 09:48 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
To correct underexposure, just push the exposure comp button (+/_) and use your dial to advance or reduce exposure. I think default is 1/2 EV steps, but you can change that in custom settings menu to 1/3 steps. You can also change your Av (aperture value), or shutter speed settings to be in 1/3 EV steps as well, for when you select your own, and also the ISO steps to be the same when you select that yourself.

As to the Custom Image menu, I don't have a K-200D powered up right now, but I do have a K20D active, which is in the same genre. Just press the fn button and the Custom Image Menu should be there, to be accessed via the "ok" button. It is probably already in the default "Bright" category. You can use the 4-way surrounding buttons to navigate. Just go to the "S" for sharpening, then using your thumb dial, put an "F" by the "S" for Fine Sharpening.
Thanks Mike, really helpful!
02-28-2018, 12:55 AM   #24
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Thanks Sly fox, I have been reading the articles and hopefully I can grasp what I am doing soon!
02-28-2018, 01:02 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by laurie02 Quote
Thanks Jonathan... underexposed is dark? over exposed is light?
Your're welcome and yes and yes.

Careful cleaning the sensor if you plan on doing it yourself - they're very sensitive and easy to damage. In my eight-or-so years of DSLR use I've never had anything on a sensor that I couldn't shift with a rocket blower and this is the best approach as it involved no contact with the sensor and therefore no risk of damage.
02-28-2018, 02:45 PM   #26
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Underexposure= picture turns out too dark. Overexposure= picture turns out too light.

All cameras work basically the same way, even P/S cameras, phones, etc. The shutter speed lets in less light with faster, and more light with slower speeds. The lens aperture lets in more light when opened to a larger, wider-size setting ( a smaller number), and less light when opened to a smaller, narrower-size setting (larger number). The increments are called "stops" (from the old way of setting aperture via clicks on a lens aperture ring), "half-stops" etc. This term is also used to describe measuring light exposure values or describing an exposure increment in general, because shutter speed has to have a relationship with the lens aperture setting. If a particular aperture is selected, there has to be a corresponding shutter speed so the incoming light will be balanced for correct exposure of the scene. Same thing for aperture if a particular shutter speed is selected.

The ISO sensitivity adjustment allows the same amount of light to achieve greater or less exposure by increasing or decreasing the sensor's sensitivity to light. Increasing ISO is helpful in lower-light situations, but the downside is, if going too far with it, image quality suffers. Noise (graininess) sets in and resolution drops.

The difference with an advanced camera is control of all the various aspects, and knowledge regarding what is going on- what the camera is doing, so you can exercise control. Just like you are doing in a very basic way when you employ exposure compensation. But there are are also very good reasons for being choosy as to a shutter speed or an aperture. This is why you have other operating modes on your mode dial, than just "P" or the green auto.

Your photos here are typical of the K200D. By design being set too much towards underexposure. Other than that, very nice photos. If you have photo editing software installed, you can lighten the exposure of those shots.

If your camera's adjustments are set for 1/2 EV steps (Exposure Value- also called "stops"), which is default for this camera, use your exposure comp button held down and dial up exposure by +1 notch. On the K200D the button is located up on top near the shutter release button. If the camera is set for 1/3 EV, increase by +1 notch also, or perhaps +2. These settings are in the custom menus. Hit the menu button to access the screens. I prefer mine set for 1/3 EV, so when I set my own shutter speed or aperture I will have smaller steps available to better fine-tune my exposure. Same with ISO steps.

I presume you are shooting in the "P" mode. This is for fully automatic exposure where the camera sets both your shutter speed and your lens aperture for "correct" exposure according to the camera's light meter reading. It also allows some user intervention for adjustments of various parameters. The "green" auto mode is different in that it allows little variance- it is mainly there for times when you hand the camera to someone temporarily to take some pictures, who knows nothing about your camera, so they will not accidentally nudge a control and alter the outcome.

Last edited by mikesbike; 02-28-2018 at 03:27 PM.
03-04-2018, 12:12 AM - 1 Like   #27
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I don't know why but I enjoy looking at this picture!

03-04-2018, 12:44 AM - 1 Like   #28
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This is a very good photograph, Lauri- I enjoy looking at it too! Good job and nice catch!
03-04-2018, 01:04 AM   #29
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Thanks Mike, I took your advice and advice from other members here and popped EV up 2 steps, worked well I thought!
03-15-2018, 06:04 PM   #30
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So playing with lenses , a sigma 100 - 300 AS not too bad I thought with some simple fixes



a Willywagtail, Walkers lake 15/03/2018
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