Originally posted by grispie Makes sense. If weight helps you, put the K1 on the monopod. Don't rely on SR. Make sure it is off!
I think the K1 with 50mm and Kp with the 24mm should get a similar IQ. Although it might be easier to get some reach with the 50 on the Kp. True. Avoid the 100mm.
Maybe you know already, but use 'muted' or natural with saturation/sharpness/contrast down.. & manage in post.
the proof wil be in the eating of the pudding. I look forward to comparing the output of both in the same environment..
Don't worry too much about IQ. What Richandfleur said: lighting & audio are your best friends..
If you have any control over that..
SR off for the tripodded KP, but surely you want some degree of SR on for the K-1 on a monopod? Does it not help when monopodding? I haven't really tested on and off in this regard, will have to do that tomorrow.
Yesterday I got a chance to go to the venue early and set things up, see how things would look and where I could best place my gear. I first focused on the KP and 24mm as you said, I could place this closer to the speaker, however still felt the bitrate was a bit naff due to the wide angle. I then pulled the tripod further back, raised it higher (so it would pass the heads of others comfortably) and mounted the 50mm, this I felt would have a higher quality to it even tho the shot is further back.
I will of course be closer with the K-1 and prolly with a 50mm also. Perhaps from an editing perspective it's nice to have two rolls with the same focal length? <shrugs>
And yes I was gonna switch both White Balances off Auto and onto something fixed, to give a consistency during editing. Does it matter if I set them both to say 'shade' or 'sunlight' etc? Or can the cameras still interpret those modes slightly? Should I pick a kelvin such as 5200k etc? And yes to natural/flat or whatever, both set to the same whatever I choose.
I'm a little vague about actual video specific settings tbh. With stills I quite often live in Av mode, set the ISO Auto Parameters to slow or something so that I don't drop below 1/80th etc (lens dependent of course) and have Auto ISO on. Then I just concentrate on framing, composition and DoF.
I think on my practice run I had the video set to Av mode as well, and I noticed when pushing the aperture to say f11-13 it went from white to blinking red. Not sure what this means... is it trying to say too much noise and grain/ISO is kicking in? Guess I have some more experimenting to do before Sunday.
EDIT: Playing around with the Button Customisation etc, I can see on Av mode for movie I can have rear dial for aperture and front dial for Exposure (-2 to +2), I think I need that because changing aperture does seem to change overall exposure, and if you want to change the DoF but keep a certain exposure then you'll need to be able to control that somehow.
I'm a little confused as to why TAv and Manual mode give a shutter speed for Movie mode.... like... huh?