[mattb123]

If you are in a very dry climate like I am in Western Colorado, you don't really have to worry about condensation unless your breath is the source of moisture.
Also if you are shooting hand held, be careful with the cold metal of the camera up against your face. It might stick!

[jgnfld]

While I was growing up in Saskatchewan there were countless January and February days I fervently wished it had been as warm as -25°C. ...

Disregarding the camera for the moment, if your extremities hurt, they will freeze. Warm them up before they got numb. I made it through the first 23 years of my life without getting frostbite, so it is possible to avoid it.

Never have gotten frostbite in Newfoundland though many years fell through a remote bog (Puddle Pond area near Star Lake) when navigating back to a truck on a cloudy moonless night on a dead flashlight (shot a caribou a couple of klicks too far back near sunset in November). Nice thing about falling through was that then I knew exactly where I was only about a kilometer from the truck and could feel my way back along the terrain that I knew well by feel quite handily. Downside was that my clothes were like iron as it was about -10 to -15C. Stripped down to basically nothing, put the truck heat on high, and warmed up for an hour before I felt strong enough to drive back to camp. Cudda killed myself that time.

I NEVER--speaking of batteries--go out in the wilderness without extra batteries any more! I learned my lesson. Also modern flashlights and batteries are much lighter and much stronger than back in the 80s. Plus, when caribou hunting--when I still did for some years more--I always reversed course back towards the road at noon. Only made one night crossing of a bog (15 klicks north of Branch) after that and there was at least star light so while I had flashlights, didn't need to use them and was able to use night vision to see everything not just the bright light circle from a flashlight.

Did get frostbite for much the same reasons once in northern Minnesota while cross country skiing and getting wet a couple of miles from the farm when I apparently found a spring under the snow I didn't know about.

[MaineNative]

To add to what Matt said, another thing that gets very cold are metal tripods. Mine came with foam on the legs, but you can also buy snap-on pipe insulation and tape it on. If you have a carbon tripod, I hear they can get brittle in the cold. (Mine are all aluminum.)

I agree with the thin gloves inside flip-top gloves or mittens do you don’t need to take off the thin gloves. (Mittens are always warmer than gloves if you will just we standing around.)

I’ve taken skiing pictures in Colorado and star shots in Maine in winter with non-WR gear and the only problem I ever had other than condensation was dead batteries. I have heard of people strapping a chemical hand warmer to the camera by the battery compartment but I never tried it.

One thing I did observe shooting stars on cold nights... if I leave the f-stop wide open for long exposures, the battery lasts longer. If you stop down, the camera uses power to hold the aperarure closed and on long exposures, this drains the battery. (For star pictures I am normally shooting wide open, so no problem in my case.)

Have fun! I have been to Sweden 5 times including one trip in December. Mostly visited Stockholm and Leksand, Mora and Dalarna area.

[MJKoski]

Battery tip from from ice cold Finland! Use 2-n original Pentax D-LI90 batteries with a rotation so that when one battery freezes put it in warm insulated bag with a chemical handwarmer or two (not too many to prevent rapid heating). Stuff this bag inside jacket and if positioned well enough it will warm up your belly too which is nice. This way it is possible to extract more juice out of batteries. Never lick metallic lens barrel, tripod ballhead or metallic camera body no matter how good it looks.

[derekkite]

Never lick metallic lens barrel, tripod ballhead or metallic camera body no matter how good it looks.

And if you do make sure you post a photo!

[MJKoski]

It would make a nice youtube challenge. "Lick your metallic lens, mount it, compose and shoot a picture at -20C". Extra points for selfie using the same combo.

[Glen]

I've used mine in -25C a number of times. Its always worked fine for me although when you get down to those temperatures electronics in anything including cars start to go a little wonky. The battery will be down to 50% to 75% from a full charge just because it is cold. If you are going to be out for a while you will want at least one extra battery that you keep quite close to your body to keep warm. Others here have already said that when you bring it indoors, keep your gear in the camera case or a plastic bag so that you reduce the chance for condensation to do damage. I generally pull out the memory card and then put the camera back in the cold backpack case and leave it there to warm up slowly. It really is amazing that this combination of mechanical and electrical precision instrument can work properly in those temps but it does. Its been my personal experience that the photographer will succumb to the cold long before the camera does. Enjoy yourself. Oh and don't take any of the old style SDM lenses with you. They won't focus. In the cold weather screw drive or DC and probably PLM are your friends.

[MJKoski]

It is important to move around and use a down jacket (and even trousers) when staying in one place for longer periods. This way the photographer will outlast the camera setup. On showshoes and pair of skies there will be sweat even. One last trick is to eat frozen meat before going out, this will actually raise body temperature when it tries to deal with the food but this is taxing on stamina.

[MossyRocks]

if I leave the f-stop wide open for long exposures, the battery lasts longer. If you stop down, the camera uses power to hold the aperarure closed and on long exposures, this drains the battery.

Never thought about that but I usually just manually set the aperture using the ring in the belief that the fewer moving cold parts that might get stuck the better.

One last trick is to eat frozen meat before going out, this will actually raise body temperature when it tries to deal with the food but this is taxing on stamina.

I might have to try that when I go out hunting next year.

[mattb123]

It is important to move around and use a down jacket (and even trousers) when staying in one place for longer periods. This way the photographer will outlast the camera setup. On showshoes and pair of skies there will be sweat even. One last trick is to eat frozen meat before going out, this will actually raise body temperature when it tries to deal with the food but this is taxing on stamina.

Be careful of getting sweaty, that can be worse than just sitting still. Proper wicking/breathing clothing will help avoid that. I also find I need to back off when hiking or skiing uphill in cold conditions to help me regulate my temperature and not get sweaty. But that is probably more vigorous that what most people do. Getting sweaty in subzero conditions and cotton could be deadly.

As for the frozen meat, that does not sound good!
I've never heard of that either. But I guess if it works it could be useful. I'm just going to stick to sensible clothing and regulating aerobic activity!

[MJKoski]

Yes sweat is bad. Thus, down feather clothing is a no-no when moving around with heavy loads. One has to wear them when staying still for extended periods.

[repaap]

well it is crucial to have 2 drywarm layers with you if you know that you will be sweating. so you can change dry clothes, in front of campingfire preferably. Especiallyif you will be breaking the sweat much. closest to your body layer breathing merinowool, even if it is not ethical, it will keep you warm. -20 c is not cold if you have proper gear.

[mattb123]

If find if I do get sweaty out there that good wicking and breathable layers can dry me back out again without having to change.

[normhead]

well it is crucial to have 2 drywarm layers with you if you know that you will be sweating. so you can change dry clothes, in front of campingfire preferably. Especiallyif you will be breaking the sweat much. closest to your body layer breathing merinowool, even if it is not ethical, it will keep you warm. -20 c is not cold if you have proper gear.

I still have the front of my jacket unzipped at -20.

If find if I do get sweaty out there that good wicking and breathable layers can dry me back out again without having to change.

I generally suffer with anything but cotton next to my skin, but out in the cold for an extended period means wicking underwear under merino wool layers. I'd rather itch a bit than freeze.

[repaap]

If find if I do get sweaty out there that good wicking and breathable layers can dry me back out again without having to change.

It completelly depends how sweaty one get. If it goes all the way through, then you have to change it all. I mean skiing, back bag, 10 km(or so). Normal hiking, good merinowool and breathign layers will do it. Just have warm coat to put on after hiking.

---------- Post added 01-24-19 at 21:32 ----------

I still have the front of my jacket unzipped at -20.



I generally suffer with anything but cotton next to my skin, but out in the cold for an extended period means wicking underwear under merino wool layers. I'd rather itch a bit than freeze.

I have 'washed' my armpits with snow in -20 then change dry clothes and warm up... refreshing.