[Nunavut]

thanks. I'm starting to see a consensus that a KP might be a better option for low light and size while keeping compatibility with my lenses. I hadn't really considered the kp because of the lack of top lcd, but I'll have look again

[twilhelm]

thanks. I'm starting to see a consensus that a KP might be a better option for low light and size while keeping compatibility with my lenses. I hadn't really considered the kp because of the lack of top lcd, but I'll have look again

Shooting with the KP is different than with any other Pentax camera. I initially thought not having the top LCD was going to be an issue for me also, especially since I've had one since the K10D, but reality is a different thing. Having the extra control wheel is more convenient than having the LCD, IMO.

This was my first impression of the KP after just a few days of use. KP Impressions - PentaxForums.com

[Merv-O]

MY upgrade K-3 to K-1 cost my more than twice the cost of the camera.

Specifically for the K-1, I added, a DFA 28- 105, a Rokinon 14 2.8, a DFA 100 macro, and a Tamron 300 2.8, and i still don't have the kind of flexibility I have with my K-3 (which I kept.)

Everyone figures out what they need, but, I planned on $1600 over camera cost for my K-1. (It ended up something like $000 over camera cost.) But honestly, I still need $2000 15-30 and a DFA 150-450 just to get close to the same type of capabilities I have with my K-3. so that's what it would cost me to get rid of it. I just don't have enough K-3 stuff to sell, to raise the $4000 CDN I'd need to sell my K-3.

This is an excellent post as it made me think about what I have spent thus far on the FF upgrade--let's see, not for the faint hearted:

K-1 Mark ii w/DFA 28-105mm. $ 2,200.00
Pentax 50mm 1.4. 300.00
Pentax 35mm 2 240.00
SIGMA 70-300 FA 150.00
Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 430.00
Irix 15mm Firefly 495.00
S]GMA 28mm f/2.8 60.00 (manual--great old glass)
SIGMA 15-30 DFA 355.00 (used bought here at PF)
$ 4,250.00

This is a modest kit of lenses too....but wait add the cost of clear/UV filters (Hoya or B&W at 30-60 apiece), a quality bag (Domke F2, e.g.) padded strap (the K-1ii is a heavy pup after all) and your'e pushing $5,000. That is a serious commitment...now here's the rub: My KP (takes) and K-3/ii (took) pictures that are stupendous and I see very little differential in my style of imaging. I'm thinking of sticking with APS-c and selling it off--my one year experiment. Ugh.

[Nunavut]

Everyone, thanks for your feedback, I've learned alot from your posts, and have decided to pass on the k1 for now. It's really only low light I'm after. So hoping to look at the KP or wait for a new aps-c flagship.

Have a great weekend shooting!

---------- Post added 01-27-19 at 12:57 PM ----------

If there are any Vancouver based Canadians, the k1 is on Craigslist for $1650 cdn. 660 shots.

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Last edited by Nunavut; 01-27-2019 at 01:06 PM.

[normhead]

thanks. I'm starting to see a consensus that a KP might be a better option for low light and size while keeping compatibility with my lenses. I hadn't really considered the kp because of the lack of top lcd, but I'll have look again

I looked at a few comparison images, and decided the K-P at 1600 ISO looks better than the K-1 at 3100, so IMHO it's less than a full stop. And they look better than my K-3 at 640 ISO.

[Merv-O]

I looked at a few comparison images, and decided the K-P at 1600 ISO looks better than the K-1 at 3100, so IMHO it's less than a full stop. And they look better than my K-3 at 640 ISO.

Funny that you saw the same thing I did Norm. I believe that the K-1ii needs some firmware refinement. The sum of the parts are fine, but there is so much more that can be done...let's hope CP+ yields some new software/firmware for this body. Also fine lens adjustment should be made automatic as it seems to be a common weakness in the K-1ii. Every lens is either front focused or rear focused, few, if any of my lenses are as clear as they should be....the KP fired solid right out of the box...a true little champion...lookinh forward to really working it up.

[mikesbike]

Everyone, thanks for your feedback, I've learned alot from your posts, and have decided to pass on the k1 for now. It's really only low light I'm after. So hoping to look at the KP or wait for a new aps-c flagship.

Have a great weekend shooting!

---------- Post added 01-27-19 at 12:57 PM ----------

If there are any Vancouver based Canadians, the k1 is on Craigslist for $1650 cdn. 660 shots.

I think you've come to a good decision, having received some excellent advice. Of course, certain lenses like one you already have- the FA 35mm f/2 would definitely be a very useful, more versatile lens on a FF body. But since lenses are of utmost importance in formulating any system, and what you have being extremely impressive, does indeed fortify your decision. Your DA 20-40mm f/2.8-4 Limited and your DA* 50-135mm f/2.8 are killer lenses for delivering great IQ. Then including the Sigma 10-20mm in your kit provides a versatile and very wide FL range with excellent quality. Your DA* 50-135mm delivers a capability similar to a large, heavy, expensive 70-200mm f/2.8 on a FF body, and does so with very fine IQ at less than half the weight. Your FA 77mm Limited is a wonderful lens with either format.

It seems to me, the arrival of the K-3 II replacement should not be very far off. Then you'd have no regret in selling your current K-3 II. No doubt it will equal the KP for low light, which is close to the K-1.

OTOH, for the kind of uses you state, hiking, travel, etc. the KP might be even more ideal in its svelte compactness. I can tell you with the DA 20-40mm Limited on it, they really seem to be made for each other! I got mine in silver, and find both silver and black lenses look great on it. Much as did my ME Super years ago. And it does not seem you are in need of the deeper buffer or double card slots of the bigger K-3 type. The KP's battery is so small, having spare ones along is no trouble at all. The DA* 50-135mm is compact also for such a lens, and I find it handles very well on my KP. Those two lenses make a great team. There have also been some good prices offered lately for the KP. I just checked B&H to find they have it on special at under $800 USD once again.

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Last edited by mikesbike; 01-27-2019 at 07:11 PM.

[Texas-expat]

I kept my K3 and I am happy that I did. First, I have Pentax M-42 glass from 24 mm to 500mm that adapts to the K -1. I have acquired a Irix 18 mm for the low end. I have a 50 mm 1.8 that works for the mid level and bought a 25-70 mm for the walkaround and the "walk around lens" and the 70-200 mm for the tele. I use the M-42 300 and 500 mm for both. The most important thing that i have found is the burst rate on the K-1 is much lower than the K-3 and if I need that Higher burst rate for sports or other action photography i use the K-3. But what do I know? I still do film.

[Snapppy]

Just throwing out yet another plug for keeping the K-3.

I was in the same position as you last year. I stumbled upon a VERY good deal for a K-1 that meant selling my K-3 + 18-135mm + $100 would pay for the K-1. Of course, I jumped on it having been lusting after the K-1 for a while (particularly for astrophotography/nightscapes). I am on a very tight budget, so even tacking on $100 was about all I could do. I wish I would have asked on this forum and received the advice you have, because like many have said, jumping into full-frame on a budget can become extremely constraining, and while I have a bigger budget now than I did a year ago, I am still working to get even a basic set of lenses to cover my wants and needs, and I've missed many photo opportunities in the meantime.

For example, while I have loved the astro/nightscape photos and think the K-1 has helped with that, I missed some great moose pictures twice simply because I have nothing beyond a 75mm lens while I have been saving up towards the 70-200 Tamron. I could have easily snapped that on my K-3 with an inexpensive tele and it would have looked fantastic.

I have thought many times of selling it and going back to the K-3, and maybe someday I will. All that being said, the K-1 is a fantastic camera, but it's not like I love my pictures now more than I did with the K-3 (makes you think...)

[normhead]

Just throwing out yet another plug for keeping the K-3.

I was in the same position as you last year. I stumbled upon a VERY good deal for a K-1 that meant selling my K-3 + 18-135mm + $100 would pay for the K-1. Of course, I jumped on it having been lusting after the K-1 for a while (particularly for astrophotography/nightscapes). I am on a very tight budget, so even tacking on $100 was about all I could do. I wish I would have asked on this forum and received the advice you have, because like many have said, jumping into full-frame on a budget can become extremely constraining, and while I have a bigger budget now than I did a year ago, I am still working to get even a basic set of lenses to cover my wants and needs, and I've missed many photo opportunities in the meantime.

For example, while I have loved the astro/nightscape photos and think the K-1 has helped with that, I missed some great moose pictures twice simply because I have nothing beyond a 75mm lens while I have been saving up towards the 70-200 Tamron. I could have easily snapped that on my K-3 with an inexpensive tele and it would have looked fantastic.

I have thought many times of selling it and going back to the K-3, and maybe someday I will. All that being said, the K-1 is a fantastic camera, but it's not like I love my pictures now more than I did with the K-3 (makes you think...)

In your situation I might be tempted to use a DA 55-300 PLM in crop, unless you plan to use it in doors in which case ƒ2.8 is necessary. After all, a crop image is better than no image.

[Snapppy]

In your situation I might be tempted to use a DA 55-300 PLM in crop, unless you plan to use it in doors in which case ƒ2.8 is necessary. After all, a crop image is better than no image.

I have toyed with that idea before, and I think you're spot on. Much can be said about the advantages and disadvantages, but meanwhile I wish I had those moose pictures

[mikesbike]

There are a couple of other compromises in the KP other than the top LCD panel, having to do with on-body controls. Of course, these compromises are for space-saving and for having the third control wheel on top. Instead of separate dedicated controls for AE-L and a back AF button, the AE-L button can be programmed to serve as an AF button instead. I prefer setting it to AE-L because I use this feature fairly often, and I am accustomed to using the shutter button half press for AF anyway. The lever around the power on/off button for optical DOF preview is gone, but other buttons are programmable, such as the one for level display, which could be set up for that purpose.

So, though some convenience is lost in controls having to be used in double roles, the third wheel on top provides additional convenient and efficient control features, also programmable, that are not found on the K-3. It is a give and take situation, but I think Pentax engineers have done a very good job in providing an exceptional and unique controls setup on a modest-size body. It is way beyond the controls setup of the K-S2 and K-70 style camera body, which in their own right are way above the typical entry-level DSLR camera bodies in both features and controls.

[BorisKolo]

I had switched from K-3 to K-1 a year ago. However, my situation was quite different. I am the fan of prime lenses; and I had mostly film Pentax lenses except only two wide-angle DA ones (15 and 21 lims). Besides, earlier I had purchased K 24/2.8 lens. Thus, I just sold my K-3 body and both my DA lenses and continued to shot with my line 24mm, 31-43-77 lims. Later I've purchased several Pentax-K primes including 135/2.5. That's it.

I have to say that FF body is not comparable with cropped one. It is better in a lot of terms; and the main one is the focus accuracy. My K-3 was not good both with 31 and 77 lenses; while K-1 is perfect with alll my AF lenses.

[Merv-O]

There are a couple of other compromises in the KP other than the top LCD panel, having to do with on-body controls. Of course, these compromises are for space-saving and for having the third control wheel on top. Instead of separate dedicated controls for AE-L and a back AF button, the AE-L button can be programmed to serve as an AF button instead. I prefer setting it to AE-L because I use this feature fairly often, and I am accustomed to using the shutter button half press for AF anyway. The lever around the power on/off button for optical DOF preview is gone, but other buttons are programmable, such as the one for level display, which could be set up for that purpose.

So, though some convenience is lost in controls having to be used in double roles, the third wheel on top provides additional convenient and efficient control features, also programmable, that are not found on the K-3. It is a give and take situation, but I think Pentax engineers have done a very good job in providing an exceptional and unique controls setup on a modest-size body. It is way beyond the controls setup of the K-S2 and K-70 style camera body, which in their own right are way above the typical entry-level DSLR camera bodies in both features and controls.

Also, please remember that although the 24mp sensors are similar in pixel density, the KP sensor is sharper than the K-3/ii series simply because it is a newer more refined design. That in and of itself to me takes precedence over much of the ergonomics between the KP and the K-3/ii. Imaging is everything to me. I grew up on all manual control so these new Pentaxes are a dream. (i'm still pissed about my K-1ii's calibration though--way off. Hello Precision?).

[mikesbike]

If getting the KP, and you want to get exceptionally fine results from time-saving JPEGs right out of the camera, be sure to remember to set up "Fine Sharpening" in the Custom Image menus. I set this up in the "Bright" category, then later in the "Natural" as well, but I usually have the camera set to "Bright" unless dealing with very high-contrast situations. The "Bright" setting does not seem to exaggerate color to the degree other models have done, from what I see. The color is very colorful without being off.